LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 











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if PM ACROSS AN OLD FED. 



BY 



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REV. h; c. holloway, a. m 



^ I PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR. 




PHILADELPHIA : 
LUTHERAN PUBLICATION SOCIETY. 



rK 



^Ot CONGRESS II 



Copyright, 1886, 

BY 

H. C. HOLLOWAY. 






TO THE MEMORY 

OF 

JOHN BROWN HOLLO WAY, 

MY VEKERATED AND SAINTED FATHER, 
THIS BOOK 

IS 

affectio:n^ately dedicated. 



PREFACE. 

IT was the good fortune of the author of this volume a 
few years ago to enjoy the pleasure of a visit to the 
Old World. Whilst abroad, and after his return, he ful- 
filled an engagement in writing a series of letters for a 
well-known religious periodical. Unexpectedly to him, 
these letters were received with general favor. The 
author has been frequently urged to publish them in 
book form. After repeated solicitations from many in 
whose judgment he has more confidence than in his own, 
he has concluded to comply with what seems to be a 
general desire. This volume, however, contains much 
more matter, and in improved form, than originally 
appeared in public print. 

One of the many benefits to be derived from a trip to 
Europe is the appreciation of our own free institutions, 
civil and religious. In this country all have the privilege 
of rising to the highest distinctions in Church and State 
With us religion is not hampered by state interference, 
nor are armies marshaled to uphold the '^divine right" 
of kings. After seeing what we did of Europe, we have 
learned to love and cherish more sincerely our own land, 

(V) 



VI PREFACE. 

where freedom in its best form works out the happiest 
results. 

The writer gives his own observations with fairness 
and candor, so that the reader may see exactly what he 
saw, and travel hand-in-hand with him. Hoping this 
unpretentious volume may be kindly welcomed, we send 
it on its mission, trusting that it may serve a good pur- 
pose, and meet with a generous appreciation. 

H. C. H. 

March, 1SS6. 



COl^TEB'TS. 



PACK 

Chapter I. — The Good-bye — Sea-faring — The Magnificent 
Ship— The Lord's Day— The Fourth of July— Presi- 
dent Garfield — The Great Sorrow — Over the Sea — Les- 
sons of the Sea — On a Foreign Shore 11 

Chapter II. — On British Soil — The Stranger in a Strange 
Land — The Scenery along the Way — Chester — Strat- 
ford-on-Avon — The Birthplace and Home of Shake- 
speare — London — British Channel - Ostend — Brussels . 21 

Chapter III, — In Belgium — Antwerp — An Amusing Inci- 
dent — Germany — Harvest Scenes — Cologne — On the 
Rhine — Some of its Legends — Mayence 30 

Chapter IV. — Worms — A Welcome Greeting — The Luther 

Monument 4S 

Chapter V. — Heidelberg and its Environs — The Great 

Castle — The University — Barbarous Customs 51 

Chapter VI. — Harvest Scenes — Rural Life — Military Rule 
— War Relics — Strassburg — A Vexed Strassburger — 
Its Wonderful Cathedral — Its Famous Clock — Guten- 
berg — The Gcethe House 58 

Chapter VII. — From Germany into Switzerland— An En- 
counter Between the Conductor (Zugfiihrer) and a Pas- 
senger—Bale — Berne — Its Curious Monumental Foun- 
tains — Its Bears — In Switzerland — Interlaken 65 

Chapter VIII. — In Switzerland — Interlaken — The Beauti- 
ful Sunset — An Excursion — Grindelwald — Its Glaciers 
— Lauterbrunnen 72 

Chapter IX. — Interlaken to Lucerne — The Brunig Pass — 

Alpine Scenery — Lucerne and its Beautiful Lake ... 79 
(vii) 



Vm CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Chapter X —Lake Lucerne— William Tell — St. Gothard 

Pass — Its Passage — Over the Alps Into Italy 85 

Chapter XI. — Lake Maggiore — Arona — Milan — Its Cathe- 
dral 92 

Chapter XII, — Venice — The City of the Sea — Gondolas and 
Gondoliers — Its Canals and Bridges— Priests and Fe- 
males — St. Mark's Cathedral — Its Bronze Horses — St. 
Mark's Place — Ducal Palace — Bridge of Sighs — The 
Prisons — Rialto Bridge — The Campanile — Pigeon Feed- 
ing — The Streets of Venice — Its Stores — Its Beggars — 
The Venetian People — A Sail on the Adriatic 99 

Chapter XIII. — Over the Apennines — The City of Flor- 
ence — Pitti Palace — Savonarola — Palace Vecchio — Uf- 
fizi Galleiy — Church of Santa Croce — Michael Angelo's 
House — A Funeral Scene • 120 

Chapter XIV. — Rome — The Palace of the Caesars — Arch 

of Titus— The Coliseum— The Cathedral of St. Paul. . 129 

Chapter XV. — More About Rome — St. Peter's — Remains 
of Pope Pius IX. — The Pope's Unpopularity — The 
Ticket Agent — The Vatican — The Appian Way — In the 
Catacombs 137 

Chapter XVI. — Our Last Day in Rome — Churches and 
Festivals — Pilate's Staircase — Indulgences — The Pan- . 
theon — Victor Emmanuel's Tomb — The Mamertine 
Prison — Paul and Peter — The Indignant Guide — The 
Capitol — Emancipated Rome 147 

Chapter XVII.— From Rome to Naples— The City of Na- 
ples — Its People — Pompeii — The Buried City — The 
AVork of Excavation— Old College Friends— The Testi- 
mony to the Writings of St. Paul 155 

Chapter XVIII. — Mount Vesuvius— Its Ascent by Moon- 
light — The Carriage-way — The Rope Railroad — The In- 
cident at the Battle of Gettysburg — On Foot — The En- 
counter with Professional Guides — Across the Sulphur 
Beds — The Burning Mountain — The Final Ascent — 
Looking into the Crater — The Subterranean Thunders 
— Oar Retreat — The Beautiful Prospect of Land and 
Sea— What Volcanoes Can Do 164 



CONTENTS. IX 



PAGE 

Chapter XIX. — From Italy into Switzerland — Some Re- 
flections — Pisa — Genoa- — Turin — Over tlie Alps — Mont 
Cenis Tunnel — Geneva — John Calvin's House — Mont 
Blanc 174 

Chapter XX. — From Switzerland into Germany — The 
Land of Luther — Darmstadt — A Misfortune — Frank- 
fort- on-the-Main — Eisenach — ITrsula Cotta — The Lu- 
ther House — German Hospitality — The Wartburg — The 
Luther Room — The Famous Inkstand Story 182 

Chapter XXI. — The Land of Luther — More About Eisen- 
ach — Wittenberg — Luther's Home — The Castle Churcli 
— Luther's Grave and Melanchthon's — Bronze Statues 
— Melanchthon's House — The Sleeping Dead about the 
Stadt Kirche (City Church) — Burning of the Papal 
Bull — The Wittenberg Seminary, in the Augusteum — 
Dr. Schmieder — Pen Picture of Luther. ....... 192 

Chapter XXIL — Berlin — The Capital of Prussia — Unter 
den Linden— The Palaces — Thiergarten — Frederick 
William and Queen Louisa — Oppressive Military Sys- 
tem — German University — Beer and Wine Drinking — 
The German People — An Incident — Prussian-Franco 
Love 205 

Chapter XXIIL— In France— The City of Paris— Its Clean- 
liness — Its Stores — The Boulevards — The Inward and 
Outward— Its Great Public Square — Place of Concord 
—The Champs Elysees 213 

Chapter XXIV. — More about Paris — The Triumphal Arch 
— Bois, or Park of Boulogne — Louvre — The Great Art 
Gallery — Hotel des Invalides — The Tomb of Napoleon 
I. — Tomb of Jerome Bonaparte — Luxembourg Palace — 
Hotel de Ville, or City Hall 221 

Chapter XXV. — Paris Continued — A Parisian Sunday — 
A Pleasant Surprise — The Churches — The Notre Dame 
— Hyacinthe Loysen — The Madeleine — Sainte Chapelle 
— St. Bartholomew — The Prisons — Versailles — Marie 
Antoinette — An Accident — Sympathy for the President 229 

Chapter XXVI. —From France into England — Rouen — 
Joan of Arc — A State of Tribulation — On the British 
Channel — Brighton — Rev. F. W. Robertson — London 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

— The Sombre City — Its Streets — Tlie Great Commer- 
cial Centre — The March of Improvement 239 

Chapter XXVII.— London— St. Paul's Cathedral— The 
Whispering Gallery — Westminster Abbey — The Temple 
of Fame — The Plouse of Parliament — The House of 
Commons — The London Tower — Consecrated Places — 
The Jewel Tower — The Crown Jewels- -The Unfading 
Crown . : 248 

Chapter XXVIII. — London — The British Museum— Syden- 
ham Crystal Palace — Buckingham Palace — St. James' 
Park — St. James' Courf — Madame Tussaud's Wax 
Works — Drunkenness 255 

Chapter XXIX.— Spurgeon, London's GreatPreacher — His 
Church — The Sermon — Our Impression — The Home of 
Industry — Miss McPherson — The Dark Side of London 
— Ecumenical Conference of Methodism — Bun Hill 
Fields — Bunyan — John Wesley — Daniel DeFoe — Some 
Pefiections on English Character 263 

Chapter XXX. — From England into Scotland — Edinburgh 
—The Sir Walter Scott Monument— Calton Hill— The 
Nelson, Burns, and National Monuments — Holyrood 
Palace and Abbey — Mary, Queen of Scots — High Street 
— John Knox's House — St. Giles' Cathedral — Parlia- 
ment House — Mid-Lothian— Manuscript of Scott's Wav- 
erley— The Castle 275 

Chapter XXXI. — Something about European Hotels — 
Languages — Patience and Good Temper — Eating — The 
Table d'Hote — Servants and Waiters — Fees and Chari- 
ties — Improving Opportunities 282' 

Chapter XXXIL— Things Viewed in the Contrast— The 
Condition of the Working Class in Europe Compared 
with Our Own — The Working Women — The Oppressed 
Poor and Laboring Class — Royalty — The Inequalities 
of Life — Agrarianism — Solution of the Labor Troubles. 288 

Chapter XXXIII. — Glasgow — Melrose Abbey — Liverpool 
— Homeward Bound — Storm at Sea — Ship on Fire — The 
Great Peril — Death and Burial at Sea — Home Again . 295' 



A NEW PATH ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE GOOD-BT — SEA-FARING — THE MAGNIFICENT SHIP — THE 
lord's day — THE FOURTH OF JULY — PRESIDENT GARFIELD 
— THE GREAT SORROW — OVER THE SEA — LESSONS OF THE SEA 
— ON A FOREIGN SHORE. 

THE long looked-for day and hour finally arrived, 
and on the morning of July 2d5 we found ourselves 
on board the magnificent steam-ship The City of Berlin^ 
Inman Line, New York. At 9 a. m. she steamed away 
from her pier with her rich cargo of human freight, 
bound for Liverpool. Many good-byes had been said, 
and not a few moistened eyes kept gazing after us as we 
pulled from shore, and long continued the waving of 
handkerchiefs to friends on the vessel. Though you. are 
about to realize the pleasure you have so long anticipated 
in seeing the Old World, yet you now become conscious 
of a sense of sadness as you stand on deck and watch 
your native shores as they fade in the distance. You 
feel that you are leaving home and going to a strange 
land to be surrounded by new scenes. You cannot be 
oblivious to the fact that you are about to pass beyond 
the "great and wide sea" that separates the Old and 

(11) 



12 A NEW PATH 

New worlds. But the novelty of the situation soon 
brings with it a contentment as well as courage which 
help you to say, 

'^'O happy ship, 
To rise and clip, 
With the blue crystal at your lip." 

Among the first things in which you are interested, after 
having passed out to sea, is the vessel to which you have 
entrusted yourself for a voyage. In this regard we were 
soon satisfied that we had made no mistake in selecting the 
vessel we did — The City of Berlin. She is among the 
largest mercantile steam-ships afloat. Her gross measure- 
ment is five thousand four hundred and ninety-one tons. 
She is five hundred and thirteen feet long, forty-five feet 
beam and thirty-six feet depth ; is five thousand five hun- 
dred horse power, and steams sixteen knots. She is sup- 
plied with steam by twelve boilers, which are heated by 
thirty-six furnaces. She consumes ninety tons of coal each 
twenty-four hours. She has ample accommodations for 
one thousand seven hundred passengers, of which sufii- 
cient space is allotted to accommodate two hundred first- 
class or saloon passengers. Her saloon is a noble apart- 
ment, measuring forty-four by forty-three feet, has four 
ranges of tables, and provides comfortable sittings for all 
her cabin passengers. It is lighted with electric light by 
night, and in day time by an elegant cupola sky-light, 
the walls of w^hich, like the ceiling of the saloon, are 
painted and panneled in white, enriched with gold mould- 
ings. The carved work is the finest finish of walnut. 
Her state-rooms are luxurious, and nothing remains un- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 13 

done in all her apartments that can possibly minister to 
the comfort of her passengers. She may well be denom- 
inated a "naval mansion," a "moving palace." She is 
also an admirable sailor, rolls but little, but cleaves her 
way day by day, and night by night, at a grand, steady 
pace. Of her it may be said in the language of Byron : 

" She walks the waters like a thing of life. 
And seems to dare the elements to strife." 

Besides this, her Captain, James Kennedy, is an experi- 
enced and most affable commander, having made nearly 
five hundred passages across the Atlantic, and followed 
the sea for thirty years. With such surroundings in such 
hands you cannot feel otherwise than a sense of assurance. 
You are as well provided for as it is possible to be on sea, 
and are content to commit yourself to the fate of your 
noble ship. 

As to the rank of our passengers, they are polite, re- 
fined and affable, to a degree seldom, if ever surpassed. 
Our nationality is various — the English, the Italian, the 
Spanish, the French, and the ubiquitous American. We 
are also not without a sprinkling of nobility, having on 
board His Grace the Duke of Sutherland, Major-General 
Sir Henry Green of the British army, and Lady Green. 
Then the dozen parsons, representing almost as many dif- 
ferent denominations, are not to be despised. 

How about sea-sickness? Personally, we escaped. 

The sea tossed us gently, and what little of this strange 

tribulation prevailed, was mostly confined to the ladies, 

whom we pitied very much. The first few days the sea 

3 



14 A NEW PATH 

remained almost a perfect calm, the sky being cloudless, 
and, with the exception of a few small blows and some 
rain, we had delightful sailing. While our friends at 
home were sweltering with heat and seeking cool and 
shady retreats, we were clad in heavy winter robes, and 
it was difficult to realize that it was July. Some days 
seafaring was rather monotonous, there being nothing 
but sea! sea! sea! Other days it was quite to the con- 
trary. Now and then a phantom ship was seen in the far 
distance, where the sea and horizon meet. Then again 
the great monsters of the deep, appearing in large num- 
bers on all sides of our vessel, were the occasion of much 
interest, and frequently of considerable excitement. 

The lessons of the sea are many. Perhaps the first 
and most abiding is its immensity. When on the sea, to 
a Bible reader the words of the Psalmist at once occur — 
''This great and wide sea." No plain of earth is so 
boundless or so beautiful. 

*'The eagle's vision cannot take it in ; 
The lightning's wing, too weak to sweep its space, 
Sinks half way o'er it, like a wearied bird. 
It is the mirror of the stars, where all 
Their hosts within the concave firmament 
Gray marching to the music of the spheres, 
Can see themselves at once." 

You have some sense of the vast extent of the ocean 
Avhen you stand on the land and stretch your vision 
across to the farthest horizon ; but you have a much pro- 
founder sense of its vastness when, from the deck of a ship 
in mid-ocean, as night is coming on, you gaze around on the 
watery waste. This is the hour in which you exclaim : 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 15 

" How slial] pen picture thee, thou lonely sea ; 
Awful in thine untracked immensity?" 

But every observer of the sea must be struck with its 
changefulness and unrest. Every atom of it is con- 
stantly moving and changing its place, from the depth to 
the surface, or from the surface to the depth, from the 
frozen pole to the burning equator, or from the Torrid 
Zone to the Arctic Ocean. No wonder that in Scripture 
and in the poetry of all nations the sea is the emblem of 
endless unrest. Its waters — those barren, wandering 
fields of foam going moaning round and round the world 
with apparently profitless labor — seem at first to speak 
of nothing so much as unbridled power, tumult and strife, 
anarchy and rebellion. Who does not see in them the 
picture of an evil soul — a soul unreconciled to God — a 
soul across which strong gusts of temptation drive, and 
which is tossed by its own boiling passions ? Truly saith 
the prophet, " The wicked is like the sea, which cannot 
rest." 

Much might be said on the mystery of the sea. We 
feel as we pass over it and look at it, that it is a great 
secret world of wonders. , Oh, secret and mysterious sea : 

" Thou hast pearls of price untold, 
To light thy ruby cells ; 
And splendid wrecks, and mines of gold, 
'Mid rainbow-colored shells." 

Life itself is not unfrequently spoken of as a sea, 
and surely the sea mirrors the life of a man. And all 
are on this great and wide sea. Some have only moved 
their boat a little way from the sunny shores; others 



16 A NEW PATH 

are well out in mid-ocean, riding over its billowy waves 
amid storm and tempest ; while others are well nigh over, 
and are rapidly approaching their "desired haven." 
Though all are on this sea of life, not all are on it in the 
same manner. Not all have taken Christ with them. 
Some refuse His companionship, and in the joyfulness and 
gayety of their hearts, seem not to need the presence of 
such a Friend. Now hope is bright, and the spirit free 
and buoyant. While the sun shines and the wind is low 
and the sea calm, they drift away on the wide waste of 
waters, dreamily watching the silvery foam hills, or are 
looking onward over the bright expanse. No sad fore- 
bodings oppress the soul; the dark and lonely shores of 
death are unseen, and the roar of the breakers unheard; 
and if, at times, the cry of some shipwrecked one comes 
fitfully on the breeze, it soon dies away in the great space 
above, and they dream on and on ; and thus they sing 
and float purposelessly on, and fancy they are sail- 
ing, and Hope pointing their barque to the land of pros- 
perity and happiness. But the tide sweeps on to the 
gloom of eternity, and all the while they are drifting, 
drifting away, 

"Gliding away, away, 
To the throne, to the Judge, to the awe, 
To the book of the broken law." 

Then there are those who arc on this great and wide 
sea of life in close companionship with Jesus. He is on 
the vessel with them. His word the winds and the sea 
obey. Amid storm and calm, sunshine and cloud. He is 
their refuge and strength. The fair haven beyond 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 17 

awaits them. Their vessel can never sink nor be de- 
stroyed ; it carries Him who is greater than the sea and 
mightier than its storms. They are carried forward to 
the future times, the period when the earth shall be " full 
of the knowledge of the Lord as the waters cover the 
sea ;" to the " sea of glass, mingled with fire," on which 
shall stand the victors over the beast, having the harps of 
God ; to the day when the sea shall give up the dead 
that are in it ; and to that yet more glorious day, when 
in the new heaven and the new earth there shall be " no 
more sea." the glad day to every anxious, struggling 
soul to get home to God ! — that after having been tossed 
and rocked on the high waves of the sea of life ; having 
braved its mighty perils, and endured hardness as good 
soldiers of Jesus Christ, and for many long days and 
weary years looked anxiously for the shores of the better 
land, they shall behold its peaceful haven, and anchor 
safely in its protecting care ! Then, 

" Calmly rest ! where every storm is hushed 
To peace, and cloudless skies are beautified 
With everlasting day ! Soft is the light 
That glances on their brows, and pure the gales 
That breathe their music there— the light, the breath. 
The melody of Heaven." 

The amusements on board the ship were various ^- 
some innocent enough, and others sinful. The gambling 
and drinking were bold and disgraceful. We were glad 
to know, however, that the Christian sentiment among 
our passengers was so strong and positive in its condem- 
nation of these evils that the gaming was not allowed on 
the second Lord's day we were at sea. 



18 A NEW PATH 

The religious services on ship-board were impressive 
and well attended. Though a number of clergymen were 
on board, there was no sermon, the captain reading the 
service of the Church of England. In the evening there 
was a preaching service on the deck of the vessel, which 
was greatly enjoyed by all present. How natural that 
as our hearts communed with God on the far-off sea, we 
should also think of loved ones at home. These also 
worshiped the same Almighty Father who has made both 
the land and the sea. How many devout and earnest 
prayers ascended up to Him who "holds the winds in 
His fist and the sea in the hollow of His hand," that He 
would give us a safe voyage, and bring us into our 
" desired haven." 

Though out on the broad Atlantic, we had a "glorious 
Fourth of July," even on a British steamer. At 7 A. M. 
the " Stars and Stripes" were unfurled to the breeze at the 
main-mast of ouTr vessel, and almost simultaneously the 
" Union Jack" on the mizzen. Then went up a hearty 
cheer for both by the passengers on deck, declaring very 
decidedly and beautifully the friendly relations existing 
between the two countries. One countryman who pos- 
sibly lived too much in the past refused to mingle his 
voice in a cheer that included the British flag, on the 
ground that that flag had done his country an injury. 
Besides flying the Stars and Stripes, we had Fourth 
of July speeches and appropriate recitations in the 
saloon at night. It was something to be an American 
on the sea, and even on board a British vessel. All 
that was wanting to make this a perfect Fourth of July 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 19 

celebration were the fire-crackers. The wonder was that 
no one of our number was thoughtful enough to bring 
some along. 

On the eighth day of our voyage, in the afternoon at 
four o'clock, the cry went up, " Land in sight 1 " All be- 
low rushed on deck, and there to the larboard in the 
far distance loomed up the cliffs of Skelly, on the coast 
of Ireland. An hour later and we see Cape Clear, 
Brown Head Signal Station, and Rochie Point. Soon 
came in sight the beautiful green fields and hills, and an 
unbroken view of the coast of Ireland. How welcome 
the sight of land ! How lovely the scenery on which we 
now gaze! 

The shades of night now gather over us, and darkness 
covers sea and sky. In an hour later we are safely . 
brought into the harbor at Queenstown. How soon our 
joy is turned into sorrow by the sad news that reached 
us that the Brittanica^ of the White Star Line, was lost 
in the Irish channel. But almost in the same moment 
still sadder news comes — the report of the assassination of 
President Garfield. The sorrow was universal on our 
ship. The moaning sea seemed to mingle with the sad 
hearts that wept over this great sorrow. All on board 
were deeply touched by this calamity, and few retired 
until after midnight. We sought comfort in the hope 
that the President would survive and be spared to the 
American nation. 

In the afternoon of the ninth day of our voyage we 
were safely landed in Liverpool. With good will to the 
noble ship that brought us safely over the deep, and Ty^ith 



20 A XEW PATH. 

gratitude to a kind Providence that guided it in its watery 
path, we went on shore. After going through the for- 
mality of having our luggage examined in the Custom 
House, we were ready to take the train, on the Great 
Western Railway, for Chester. 



CHAPTER II. 

ON BRITISH SOIL — THE STRANGER IN A STRANGE LAND — THE 
SCENERY ALONG THE WAY — CHESTER — STRATFORD-ON-AVON 
— THE BIRTHPLACE AND HOME OF SHAKESPEARE — LONDON — 
BRITISH CHANNEL — OSTEND — BRUSSELS. 

AT once things began to appear strange to us, and we 
were introduced to things both new and old. For 
instance, we looked for a ticket office, and upon inquiry 
no one could tell us what that was. One gentleman said 
he never heard of such a thing. Above a door we saw 
in large letters, "Booking-House." We thought of a 
book store, and seing a good many people going into this 
place, we followed suit, and soon found that this was the 
ticliet office, but in England is known as the " Booking- 
House." So we had ourself " hooked^ This is the old 
phraseology still retained of former stage-coach days, 
well remembered by our older citizens ; and the English 
people being very tenacious of old customs, prefer the 
"good old" term "booking." In the days of public 
travel exclusively by stage coach, and before railroads 
were built, the name and destination of each passenger 
were written in what was^ called the " way-bill," being 
in a small book form, with black cover, and generally 
carried in the driver's side pocket. Thus a passenger 
was "booked" from M. to H. We had ourself 
"booked" from Liverpool to Chester. 
2* ( 21 ) 



22 A NEW PATH 

The next new thing to us in our ''New Path" was the 
construction of the railway cars. They are much smaller 
than ours, and made into compartments, two seats in 
each, and facing each other, having capacity for eight 
persons. There are three such compartments in each 
car, which, in all, carries twenty-four passengers, being 
about half the capacity of one of our cars. Then there 
are first, second and third classes, and you pay according 
to the class you take. There is a saying that " fools and 
Americans travel m first class;" we took the second, and 
sometimes the third. It is said that Gladstone, the great 
English statesman, being asked why he rode in third 
class cars, replied, ''Because there isn't a fourth." 
AVhilst all the cars which we occupied were comfortable, 
yet none of theto had the comforts and conveniences of 
our American coaches. Ours are much to be preferred. 
Think of it — locked in a small compartment, with low ceil- 
ing, one small window for air in the upper half of the 
side door by which you enter the coach, no bell-rope to 
pull in case of need, and no water in the hot days of 
July. These are only some of the luxuries you enjoy 
on .the coaches of the English railway. The precaution 
with which railroads are constructed in some parts of the 
Old World is much to be commended. Thus, in England 
the tracks are never laid across the country roads, always 
either over or under. In Germany every highway, across 
which a railway track is laid, is guarded by a gate, and 
has stationed by it a watchman to open and close the gate 
as trains approach and depart. This is protection against 
accident and loss of life. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 23 

Then, too, the conductor's duties are performed, amid 
the greatest perils. He cannot pass through the cars in 
collecting tickets, but is obliged to pass over a narrow 
platform ten inches wide, which encircles each car outside, 
and thrust his head through the window of the coach; 
The wonder is that not many more of these officials lose 
their lives in the performance of their duties. 

It gives us pleasure to mention the gratifying fact of 
the extreme politeness, both in England and Germany, of 
all railroad officials, and especially so that of the ticket, 
agents and conductors. At an English railway station, 
or booking-house, you ask for a ticket — in Germany, for a 
"billet," i. e., a ticket also — and the agent heartily 
thanks you for your money. Did any one ever know of 
such a thing in our country ? So you show your " bil- 
let" or ticket on the train, and the conductor thanks you 
in the politest manner. We have met with railway con- 
ductors in our country who might learn a good deal in 
this particular. Politeness costs nothing, but shows good^ 
breeding, and goes a great way in smoothing life's rough 
path. Never does one feel this more keenly than when 
wandering "a stranger in a strange land." But kind 
treatment and polite attention, whether there was money 
involved or not, were not confined to railroad officials, but 
we found the same to be true of all classes of people we 
met. We mingled freely with the people in order to 
learn the manners and customs of the countries, and, with 
but two exceptions, received not a single incivility. The 
English and German people seem specially anxious that 
foreigners shall think well of their respective countries. 



24 A NEW PATH 

So courteously were we treated by all, that we were al- 
most vain enough to Relieve that the reason for this was 
the fact that we were Americans. But, while an Amer- 
ican is not at a discount abroad, yet the right solution of 
the matter is, that the people among whom we traveled 
were by nature well-bred gentlemen. As for ourself, we 
were not quite sure to what nationality wc belonged, for 
when in Germany, where Ave filled the office of spokesman 
and interpreter for our party of three, we were taken once 
for a Dutchman, another time for a German from Wit- 
tenberg, and again, when attempting to speak English, 
it was presumed we were something of a Frenchman. 
This was not a little confusing, and was enough to put us 
on the way of studying our ancestry. 

The scenery from Liverpool to Chester, on the Great 
Western Railroad, is very beautiful. The mossy green 
of the fields, and hedge rows so carefully trimmed, the 
sodded and cultivated embankments on both sides of 
the road, the beautiful flower gardens at almost every 
station, the stately mansions and open lawns which stretch 
far around them, all contribute greatly to enhance the 
pleasure of the wayfarer. The day from Liverpool to 
Chester was all that we could wish. In the evening we 
found ourselves resting at the Queen's hotel. 

At twilight we took a stroll through parts of this quaint 
old town, but gave it a more thorough inspection the next 
day. It is a town full of historic events. It was one of 
the chief military stations of the Romans, and the last 
cit}^ in England to hold out against William the Con- 
queror. The walls, built by the Romans, completely 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 25 

surround the city, a circuit of nearly two miles. As we 
took an early morning walk over these walls, history at 
once began to crowd upon us. There we see, among the 
first historic marks, the Phoenix Tower, which bears the 
inscription : " King Charles stood on this tower, Septem- 
ber 24, 1645, and saw his army defeated on Rowton 
Moor." In walking through this city, one is at once 
struck with the curious and unique features of what are 
called the Rows or Arcades. Besides the ordinary pave- 
ments of the streets, there is a continuous covered gal- 
lery through the front story of the houses. On this 
'• upstairs street" all the better class of shops are sit- 
uated. We found it to be true, as one had said about 
this feature of the town : " Great is the puzzle of the 
stranger as to whether the roadway is down in the cellar, 
or he is upstairs on the landing, or the house has turned 
itself out of window." Everything looks old ; the castle, 
the houses, the cathedral, all things were full of interest 
to us. In this old but beautiful cathedral Dean Howson, 
whose learned works are well known to all scholars, has 
long preached the pure Word of life. Within its ancient 
walls Ave stood by the side of the tomb of John Pearson, 
who is the author of the well-known work, " Pearson on 
the Creed." But I dare not detain you with these 
things and many more which I saw, and that were so full 
of interest to me. 

The next day we continued our journey, and came to 
Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace and home of Shake- 
speare. The home of the famous dramatist is an antique- 
looking stone house, two stories high, with picturesque 



26 A NEW PATH 

gables fronting the street. The custodian of the house 
is a quaint, pleasant, elderly lady, who admitted us, and 
talked as familiarly about Shakespeare as if she had 
known him personally for a lifetime. Before the door is 
unbolted for your exit, you are plainly reminded that you 
are expected to pay for the lecture you have received. 
And who would not wish to pay ? No tourists patronize 
Stratford more generously than Americans, no less than 
fifteen thousand having visited this famous house in one 
year ; and just that many shillings were taken in from 
these alone. 

In the room in which Shakespeare first saw the light of 
the world which he was to enrich with his thought, there 
is a cast of his face taken after his death, and a portrait 
painted in the prime of life. The latter showed a truly 
noble brow ; it was such a face as fancy itself might 
paint, so royally did it seem endowed with genius. In 
this room Sir Walter Scott inscribed his name on a pane 
of glass with his diamond ring. And Wordsworth once 
wrote a stanza, which is still preserved under glass in 
this room, and it reads thus : 

"Of mighty Shakespeare's birth the room we see ; 
Tliat where he died, in vain to find we try. 
Useless the search, for all immortal he ; 
And those who are immortal never die." 

In the rear of the house is a garden, in which grew 
the old English flowers that are portrayed by the poet in 
his dramas. Not far from the house stands the cottage 
of Ann Hathaway, Shakespeare's wife, whom he loved 
in youth when life's bright days lay before him. It is a 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 27 

cottage which is mainly noticeable for its simplicity. 
" There is the place where he sat when he came to see 
his sweetheart," said the good lady who showed us the 
house. 

Shakespeare and his wife sleep in the same beautiful 
church, amid the bowery town of Stratford-on-Avon. 
His tomb is within the chancel of the church. The Avon 
runs but a short distance from the walls, and the cool 
boughs of the, summer trees wave before the /windows. 
A flat stone marks the place where the poet is buried, 
on which are inscribed the oft-quoted lines, said to be 
written by the poet himself: 

" Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbear 
To dig tlie dust enclosed here ! 
Blest be the spade that spares these bones, 
And curst be he that moves my bones." 

Over the grave, in a niche in the wall, is a bust of the 
poet. The inscription mentions his age as fifty-three 
years. The town of Stratford is a charming, cleanly and 
inviting town of eight thousand inhabitants, all of whom 
take special pride in the privilege of living in so noted a 
place. 

The evening of the same day found us in the great city 
of London, where we rested for the night. The next day 
we arranged our affairs for a tour over the Continent, and, 
without attempting to "do" this wonderful city then, we 
departed in the afternoon, and came by rail to Dover, a 
British military post on the banks of the English Channel. 
On the white cliffs yonder we saw the red-coats in their 
evening dress parade. After a good night's rest, in the 



28 A NEW PATH 

morning we took ship for Ostend, which is in Belgium. 
From the smooth, placid waters of the Channel that 
morning, we were slow to believe that ours should be any- 
thing but the smoothest sailing ; and sure enough, these 
waters which are so much dreaded by many tourists, and 
that, too, for the best reasons, aiforded us a most delight- 
ful trip across. There was scarcely a ripple on their 
surface. The day was bright and sunny, and the dis- 
tance of sixty-eight miles was made in four hours. Here 
we found ourselves in a still stranger country than when 
in England. Now again the money has changed, and 
the language. We hear the French language, but little 
German, and no English. We now feel that we are for- 
eigners, for things are very foreign to us. We had to 
depend altogether upon the honesty of the people for fair 
dealings vrith us, and Ave had no reason to think that our 
trust was betra^^ed. 

The people seemed also to trust us, for in the examina- 
tion of our luggage, the inspectors simply ashed us 
whether we had anything dutiable. It was enough for 
us to say "No." They took it for granted that we were 
honest. 

The same evening we reached Brussels, the Paris of 
Belgium, and certainly a charming city of 180,000 peo- 
ple. Its cleanliness is remarkable. Its streets generally 
are wide, and the houses have the appearance of having 
just lately been scoured. Some of its boulevards are 
magnificent, and at night are brilliant with beauty and 
fashion. The city is full of enterprise, and is the centre 
of thrift and industry. Its people generally are refined 
in manner, and have an air of intelligence that is striking. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 29 

In the evening wo attended a concert, given in one of 
the open gardens, and saw for the first time what such 
things are. One franc admitted us within the enclosure. 
At first sight there burst upon us a scene of gajety and 
brilliancy that were marvelous. The music from the 
central pavilion was delightful. Many thousands, intent 
upon beer and wine, were seated in groups around small 
tables. The husband does not go alone, leaving his w^ife 
and children at home ; but brings them along, that they 
w^ith him may enjoy the evening. There was much drink- 
ing of wine and beer, but an absence of all disorder, even 
of loud talking. Among all that vast multitude we saw 
no drunkenness, but the most decorous deportment on the 
part of all. We concluded these people enjoyed life, and 
for good behavior were an example to many others. 



CHAPTER III. 

IN BELGIUM — ANTWERP — AN AMUSING INCIDENT — GERMANY 
— HARTEST SCENES— COLOGNE— ON THE RHINE — SOME OF ITS 
LEGENDS — MAYENCE. 

IT was with regret that we took our departure from the 
delightful city of Brussels, there being so many things 
to invite and interest us. But one of the many delight- 
ful experiences in travel is the pleasure of anticipation. 
You reluctlantly leave one place, but immediately become 
interested in another to which you are going. 

It is but an hour's ride by rail from Brussels to Ant- 
w^erp, the chief sea-port of Belgium, whither we came 
to see some of the fine paintings of Rubens in the great 
cathedral. We were well repaid for our trip. No mat- 
ter how well portrayed, a description of "Ruben's De- 
scent from the Cross" could very imperfectly present 
to the reader a true conception of this piece of art. It 
deeply impresses both the mind and heart, as one sees 
the blessed Saviour in the strong arms and gentle hands 
of His loving friends, who lift Him from the cross, pre- 
paratory to his burial in Joseph's tomb. Great indeed 
the genius that can conceive, and the skill that can exe- 
cute, such a picture. Consecrated talent thus employed 
continues to teach and bless the comino- ao;es. 

There were many street scenes in Antwerp that inter- 
ested us by reason of their novelty. Among these were 

(30) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 31 

the open markets. For many squares you see goods of 
every description displayed on the paved streets, the only 
protection being an underlaid canvas. Here you could 
purchase almost anything, from a row of pins up to a silk 
dress. 

Another novelty was the use made of dogs. The 
people make them work and earn their living. They are 
hitched to small carts used for transporting goods, and pull 
them through the streets with remarkable skill. You see 
none of the canine species running at large by day, 
neither do you hear their hideous howling by night. 
They work, and therefore are too busy " to bark and bite." 
They also are very helpful in bringing marketing from 
the small neighboring farms to the city, and thus serve in 
place of the horse. 

To see people of both sexes wearing heavy wooden 
shoes was still more of a novelty than previous sights. 
These shoes are actually constructed of wood, and are 
very clumsy. The soles are fully half an inch thick 
and turned up in front, reminding one of skates. They 
do not present a neat appearance, and come far short of 
being a good fit. No matter how handsome the foot 
might be, the owner must give up in despair any idea 
of exhibiting it with such shoes. We were, however, 
surprised to see how quickly, and even gracefully, the 
people move about in these timber shoes. They do not 
seem to be incommoded in the least by them. The con- 
stant clattering noise they make as their owners move 
about the streets, attracts a stranger's attention. The 
shoe does not come above the ankle, and the children 



32 A NEW PATH 

wear them in the form of slippers, and run or walk as 
nimbly with them on their feet as our children in leather 
slippers. But why will people, you ask, wear wooden 
shoes when leather is so cheap and makes a much more 
comfortable and neater shoe ? This question we are not 
able to answer, unless with some of the people it is on 
the ground of economy. 

In the evening of the same day we retraced our steps 
and came back to Brussels and immediately started for 
Cologne. An amusing incident occurred at a way station 
some miles beyond Brussels where we had to change cars 
and take the train direct for Cologne. There were three 
of us and the compartment we entered had no passengers. 
But jus^t as the train was about to start, three gentlemen 
entered, one quite a young man. He at once began 
showing his displeasure at our presence by alluding to us 
in not the most respectful manner. He spoke in German 
and remarked to his frends that we were some more of 
these " American tramps," and for aught he knew might 
be "jail birds, or candidates for the American presi- 
dency." After the youngster had well spent himself on 
us, to the great merriment of his companions, it came our 
turn to say something, and w^e said it. We addressed 
him in German, at which he was startled ; and he at 
once began to beg pardon in the most agitated manner. 
But we reminded him that as we bad not interrupted him 
in his comments on us, we would allow no interruption 
on his part, and he must now keep silent until we were 
done. He saw the dilemma he was in, and accepted the 
situation. We told our critic that we were Americans 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 33 

and were proud of it, and withal were gentlemen, and 
that he was the first man we had met in^our journey 
who failed to prove himself such ; that if he continued to 
show his bad manners, he would, before very long, know 
from personal experience what a "jail bird " was ; re- 
minding him at the same time that the office of President 
in our country was open to all who might seek it, 
excepting such as himself. He begged pardon for 
his conduct, and it was granted — not, however, until 
reminding him " how golden is silence," especially in 
regard to those whom we do not know. 

As we journeyed through the country, we saw the 
farmers busy cutting and gathering the grain crop, which 
was good and promised a large yield. Fences now dis- 
appeared, save here and there a hedge. The country is 
beautiful, and with here a golden grain field, and there a 
green meadow, and yonder a waving hill of rye, we have 
an animating and delightful picture. We could not help 
but wonder at the old-time method of cutting grain. In- 
stead of the reaper, they use the sickle and a small three- 
fingered cradle, or a short scythe, all of which reminded us 
of our earliest boy-hood days. Then, we saw more women 
than men in the fields, and these working in the hot sun 
with nothing but a blue cloth tied over their heads as a 
protection against the heat, and many even without this. 
Things go slow, but with care ; and every farm place is 
cultivated as carefully as we Americans cultivate a 
flower-garden. The Germans teach us economy. Every 
spot of ground is utilized. The most common or uni- 
versal products are rye, wheat, barley, oats, hemp, hops, 



34 A NEW PATH 

Indian corn, tobacco and flax. The working class in 
Germany work very hard, and severely feel the oppres- 
sive military rule. A German said to us: "We work 
most of the time for the government, taking nearly all 
we make for taxes." We said to him: " Yoar army is 
too large." " Yes, my friend," he answered, "but self- 
protection requires that we have a large army, for our 
neighbors would come in on us from all sides and steal 
our government and all we have." No doubt this is the 
truth. Among the many things that are easier in America 
than in Germany, is farming. 

After a long and hot ride we reached Cologne late in 
the night. The next day we spent in sight-seeing in this 
famed city. Its streets are remarkable for narrow pave- 
ments and crookedness, at some points almost running 
zig^-zag. The public and private edifices are generally 
well built, and the city is decidedly clean, although Cole- 
ridge many years ago wrote of it: 

"Ye nymphs who reign over sewers and sinks, 
The river Khine, it is well known, 
Doth wash your city of Cologne ; 
But tell me, nymphs, what power divine 
Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine?" 

Since Coleridge wrote these lines, certainly a great 
change has taken place in this city, for it is now a place 
of sweet odors, and worthily has become " the great 
depot for the manufacture of eau de Cologne, the liquid 
of Christendom." The city has a population of one 
hundred and forty thousand inhabitants, and is walled 
and strongly fortified. The chief attraction of Cologne 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 35 

is its magnificent cathedral. It is of Gothic architecture, 
and looms up over all surrounding buildings. Its begin- 
ning dates back over six centuries, and it is not yet fully 
completed. Several millions of dollars have been spent 
on it during the past forty years by the kings of Prussia. 
All the pictures we had ever seen of this world-wide 
known building, and descriptions we had read of it, did 
not seem now to have been exaggerated. One is over- 
awed with its largeness and its indescribable beauty. 
While it does not contain as many paintings of historic 
note as the cathedral at Antwerp, it has much finer win- 
dows and better and finer architecture. 

Behind the high altar is the chapel of the Magi, or 
the three kings of Cologne. We were assured by the 
custodian that the silver case contains the bones of the 
three wise men who came from the East to Bethlehem to 
offer their presents to the infant Christ, and that the case, 
^¥hich is ornamented with precious stones, and the sur- 
rounding valuables in the chapel are worth six million 
dollars. The remains of the wise men are said to have 
been presented to the Archbishop of Cologne by the 
Emperor Barbarossa when he captured the city of Milan, 
which at that time possessed these wonderful relics. 
Surely, to believe all this requires faith greater than 
that which would remove mountains. 

Being too late to catch the boat, we took the train to 
Bonn, where we overtook the boat, and steamed up the 
Rhine. At Bonn we thought of the great and good 
Christlieb, and passed through the grounds of the Uni- 
versity buildings. The eminent Christian and theologian 



80 A NEW PATH 

was not at home, or we certainly should have called to 
see him. 

And now we are on the boat up the Rhine, the beau- 
tiful Rhine, a full history of which will never be written. 
At first there seemed to be some disappointment exper- 
ienced, as we started on our way with a trip of pleasure 
and fine scenery pictured in our minds, such as we only 
hoped now to realize. There was neither that grandeur 
nor the beauty w^e expected to see, and there seemed an 
absence of all special interest. But we were not long 
in waiting until we were relieved of all disappointment, 
and to attempt to express our supreme pleasure and de- 
light, as view after view of sublime scenery burst upon 
our vision, would be entirely impossible. We begin to 
think of the stories and legends connected w^ith the 
numerous^ castles that tower high up on the mountain 
sides and tops^ on both sides of this historic river. We 
think of the many bloody wars waged on its banks, and 
the glories of Fatherland connected with its long and 
eventful history. We think of the effort by many to 
celebrate in song what we are now permitted to gaze 
upon in a beautiful, quiet July day. As we go on our 
way, we see many beautiful towms and villages dotting 
its banks, vine-clad mountains and mossy green, and 
waving fields of golden grain; and one almost w^earies 
of the perfect panorama of enchanted beauty which con- 
stantly rises to view. Well could Longfellow say : " 0, 
the pride of the German heart, this noble river!" And 
right, it is ; for, of all the rivers of this beautiful earth, 
there is no other so beautiful as this. There is hardly a 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 5. 

league of its whole course, from its cradle in the snowy 
Alps to its grave in the sands of Holland, winch boasts 
not of its peculiar charms. If I were a German, I 
would be proud of it too, and of the clustering grapes 
that hang about its temples, as it reels onward through 
vineyards in a triumphal march, like Bacchus crowned 
and drunken. 

And now we have reached Bingen, which the poets 
have described as " Sweet Bingen on the Rhine." It is 
a town of about six thousand inhabitants; and, as viewed 
from the river, has a very ancient appearance. Opposite 
this town, on an immense rock, in the middle of the 
Rhine, is the famous Mouse-Tower, a monument of the 
sordid avarice of an Archbishop of Mentz, called Hatto, 
and at the same time the scene of a dreadful catastrophe 
which is said to have happened this dignitary of the 
church. Erected by Hatto, in order to exact a heavy 
tax from the Rhine boats that passed, it one day became 
the refuge of the Archbishop, but did not save him from 
an awful death. 

The legend runs as follows: The diocese of the 
Archbishop was visited by a terrible failure of the 
crops ; when winter came, the people were starving, the 
price of corn was exorbitant, and incessantly rising. The 
Archbishop had bought up all the corn remaining from 
previous harvests, and retailed the contents of his full 
granaries at usurious prices. The people begged and 
implored for bread, and hinted that they Avould take it 
by force if he did not give them' some. But the merci- 
less man only sneered at them and said : " I will procure 
3 



38 A NEW PATH 

them bread ; let the people go into the empty barn, there 
they shall have warm bread enough." 

The people rushed into the building, and, when it was 
full, the doors were securely fastened, and it was set on 
fire on all sides. A heart-rending cry of terror was 
heard, piercing the heart of every one to the quick, but 
did not move the Bishop. He stepped on the balcony of 
his house near by, and cried out, " Listen to the piping 
of the mice ! I treat rebels as I do mice ; when I catch 
them I burn them." The shrieks soon ceased, and the 
roof and walls buried the poor wretches in the ruins. 

But ere long they were fully avenged. The legend 
goes on to say that out of the ashes of the barn crept 
innumerable hosts of mice. They filled the streets lead- 
ing to the xVrchbishop's palace, covered the steps of the 
splendid edifice, penetrated into every opening in the in- 
terior, and the apartments. He sent out his servants to 
destroy the troublesome guests, but in vain ; as many as 
AY ere crushed under their blows and feet, so many more 
appeared in fresh swarms. There was no more help; 
the servants fled from the palace. Hatto escaped to the 
remotest apartments, for already the mice were pulling at 
his robes and gnawing at his shoes. He fled from the 
palace, but the inexorable mice followed him. He rushed 
into a boat ; the Bhine was high, and now he thought 
himself free from the vile intruders,. He landed at the 
tower, and shut himself up in the uppermost apartment. 

But the mice were not to be daunted by the roaring 
element ; myriads, gnawing at the doors, climbed up the 
walls and steps and rushed into his hiding-place. There 



ACKOSS AN OLD FIELD. 39 

a dreadful cry was heard, when all again became still. 
A few days afterwards some courageous boati^en found 
the skeleton of the Bishop that had been gnawed by the 
mice. 

This is a sample of the Rhine legends connected with 
the many castles that crown the heights of this eventful 
river. There stand the ruins of the tower, and if the 
story be true the old fellow deserved to be eaten up by 
mice, even if he were not. 

And now we have reached TJie Drachenfeh. (The 
Dragon's Rock.) Here seven summits arise, like so 
many crowns on the mountain ; demolished by the storms 
of time, stand ruins of castles and chapels which, mir- 
rored in the waves of the Rhine, proclaim to the tourist 
the magnificence of bygone times. 

The Drachenfels tower, majestic in front, close to the 
flomng river, seems to be addressing with a warning and 
prophetic voice the peaceful world below : " Thou also 
hast still to combat with the Dragon, which, in a future 
paradise, guards the entrance to freedom's glorious king- 
dom, where all shall be equal in fraternal love." 

On the side of the Drachenfels is a deep and gloomy 
cavern, which, according to tradition, was long the den 
of a dragon, the terror of all the country round. 
Neither exorcism nor arms could free the pagans who 
lived thereabout from the monster. To propitiate it, the 
people sacrificed to it their criminals and prisoners taken 
in war, who were ravenously devoured. 

During one of their battles with a foreign tribe, a vir- 
gin fell into their hands. Her beauty was so transcend- 



40 A NEW PATH 

ent that it kindled a flame of intense love in the breasts 
of two of the heroes. These, who were chiefs, disputed 
with each other the prize. A third, however, to termin- 
ate the dispute, ordained that the virgin should be deliv- 
ered over to the dragon. 

Clothed in purest white, her hair adorned with bridal 
flowers, and around her neck a golden chain, which had 
been worn bj her in her happy days, and was now left 
in her possession, she was condemned to the sacrifice. 
She advanced to meet her fate ; no pallor, caused by 
fear, overspread her cheek. Courageous and collected 
she stood in the circle which surrounded her. 

As she approached the cavern and the dragon's fiery 
breath fell on her, she lowly murmured a pious prayer, 
and sang a hymn like one of the celestial choir. She 
drew from her bosom, attached to the golden chain, a 
cross, her greatest treasure in all her tribulations. 

She held it towards the dragon, which, gazing wildly at 
it, shuddered in its scaly armor, closed its jaws, turned 
and fled — fled before the unarmed maid, and dashed 
down into the flowing Rhine, its scaly carcass crashing 
against the rocks, and at once the monster is annihilated 
and the heavens are o'ercast with a fiery glow. A 
golden halo surrounded the garland of flowers in the 
virgin's hair ; her countenance beamed with a celestial 
expression w^hen she had overcome the threatened danger. 
The pagans standing around and seeing the wonder, were 
seized with a fear hitherto unknown, sank down before 
the divine glance of the maiden and the cross, and were 
converted thereby to the faith of pure brotherly love, 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 41 

and became worshipers of the meek Deity of ^the Chris- 
tians. 

Similar stories and legends are connected with every 
town and castle on the Rhine, but time and space forbid 
their mention. 

As regards the beauty and attractiveness of the Rhine, 
according to our judgment, the finest scenery lies between 
Goblentz and Mayence. As if Providence meant to give 
us a specially favored day to see the Rhine and its charm- 
ing scenery under a variety of circumstances, there 
came down upon us a fearful thunderstorm, accompanied 
with much wind and a great rain. But an hour before 
we left the boat the clouds broke away, and we saw the 
Rhine and mountains arched Avith a beautiful rainbow, 
and the day closed with one of the most beautiful sunsets 
we^ever beheld. The picture of the Rhine and its charm- 
ing scenery we now hold in our mind is fixed as a thing 
of childhood, never to be blotted out. 

The evening found us safely in Mayence, or Mainz. 
We saw all of the most interesting sights the next day. 
It is, like everything in this part of the world, very old. 
There was a Roman camp here as early as 38 B. C, and 
the foundations of the city walls were laid even earlier. 
In the citadel, which Drusus built, there is a.n interesting 
monument, erected by the soldiers, in honor of Drusus. 
Outside the city there are extensive remains of a Roman 
aqueduct. The cathedral, founded in A. D. 978, but six 
times burned and restored, is one of the grandest in Ger- 
many, and no other is so rich in monuments. We were 
present during the morning service. The singing was 



42 A NEW PATH 

truly fine and to hear the peals of the great organ as they 
rolled and reverberated through the grand arches, was 
impressive. In these cathedrals one is overwhelmed with 
demonstration and show, all appealing to the senses more 
than to the affections. There is, no doubt, true worship 
on the part of the many thousands who gather here, but 
the people receive no instruction. There is an immense 
amount of superstition connected with nearly everything 
that is done in the way of service. Our heart went out 
in deepest sympathy for these benighted people. No 
wonder Martin Luther's soul was set on fire with heav- 
enly zeal, when he saw still much more of this than now 
exists in the Romish Church. 



CHAPTER IV. 

WORMS — A WKLCOME GBEETING THE LUTHER MONUMENT. 

THE site on which the ancient city of Worms reposes 
is consecrated to legend, history and art. It is the 
scene and perhaps the home also of the German NiheU 
ungen Legend, the place where Luther for the first 
time spoke before the Emperor and the Diet, as the 
emancipator of conscience, as the hero of the first war 
for the liberties of the German nation ; and the fact of 
its now being adorned with a magnificent Monument of 
the German Reformation and its forerunners, is sufii- 
cient to stamp it as classic ground. 

As we attempt to write from so historic a place 
as Worms, in Germany, we wish we could command the 
inspiration needed to write in a befitting manner. We 
wish also we could give expression to the supreme pleas- 
ure it afforded us to visit the place where were enacted 
such deeds of heroism in the interests of truth and right- 
eousness. While every Christian heart must be touched 
in wandering amid places like Worms, yet to a Lutheran 
this is thrillingly interesting, and he glories afresh in the 
man who, under God, glorified the ages, and lives anew 
in history, as do but few. 

We reached Worms from Heidelberg in the evening, 
after dark ; but so great was our desire to see something 
of the town, that we took a stroll through some of its 

(43) 



44 A NEW PATH 

streets by gaslight. The impressions made upon our mind 
were quite favorable. Its streets are clean, well paved, 
and well lighted. It has a population of about fifteen 
thousand, nearly two-thirds of whom are Protestants. In 
the time of Frederick Barbarossa it had a population of 
seventy thousand ; but at the beginning of the seventeenth 
century the number had dwindled to forty thousand. 
The thirty years' war proved very disastrous to Worms, 
which was repeatedly occupied and laid under contribution 
by Mansfeld and Tilly, the Spaniards and the Swedes. 

We were kindly showoi through the churches (three 
of which are Lutheran and very large) and in one case the 
sexton's wife got up at 6 o'clock in the morning to show 
us the interior of the DriefaltiyJaifs Kir die, or the 
Church of the Trinity.^ This contains a painting of the 
Diet of Worms, which was held in 1521, at which Luther 
defended his doctrines before the Emperor Charles V., 
six Electors, and a large and august assemblage, conclud- 
ing with the words: Hei^e I stand ; 1 cannot do otJier- 
wise; God help me! Amen. 

After having seen the interior of the Church of the 
Trinity, we inquired of the sexton's wife the pastor's 
name, which she gave us as Pastor Miiller. We had a 
desire to see him, and yet from the representation made 
to us by some of the Lutheran divines in America, we 
felt a hesitancy in calling on him, it being also so early 
in the morning. But we concluded to try, as certainly 
no harm could result from simply calling on him. We 
pulled the bell at the parsonage door, were invited in, and 
on inquiry found that the pastor was at home, and after a 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 45 

moment's waiting he made his appearance ; an-d upon in- 
troducing ourself, we were most cordially welcomed into 
his study. No one, to whom w^e were a stranger, could 
have received us more cordially or treated us with more 
consideration. Pastor Miiller reminded us much of some 
of our genial German pastors at home. He inquired 
very particularly about the Lutheran Church in America, 
both as to its form of Avorship and prospects for the future ; 
w^here were located our coUeo-es and theolosfical institu- 
tions. and about our synods. He said he heard of Dr. 
Krauth being in Worms last summer, and was sorry he 
did not enjoy the privilege of meeting him. We found 
Pastor Miiller so pleasant and entertaining that we re- 
gretted our stay with him was so short. When we left 
his door he shook us heartily by the hand, and invited 
us Ho come and see him again before we left Worms. 
Whatever others may have experienced, surely our visit 
to a Lutheran pastor in Germany was a most pleasant 
one, and we carried away with us pleasing recollections. 
The chief attraction, however, at Worms, is the Luther 
Monument, which of itself is worth a long journey to see. 
It stands in a square in the city, and is surrounded with 
tasteful pleasure-grounds and flower-beds. It is most 
imposing in appearance. The monument is of bronze, 
and rests on a square substructure ; the latter being of 
granite, and measuring forty-one feet. At the four cor- 
ners stand, on pedestals of polished syenite eight feet 
high, the statues of the mightiest supporters and promot- 
ers of the Reformation. In front that of Frederick the 
Wise, elector of Saxony, nine feet high, also Philip the 
3* 



46 A NEW PATH 

Magnanimous, Landgrave of Hesse. At the back, Philip 
Melanchthon and John Reuchlin. The front of the 
quadrangle is open, and two steps, between the statues 
of the first two, which are thirty feet apart, give access 
to the inner area. The three remaining sides are in- 
closed bj battlemented walls, three feet high, also of 
polished syenite, in the middle of each of which is seated, 
on a syenite pedestal six feet high, a female figure em- 
blematic of the cities — first of Augsburg, with the palm 
branch, six feet high; second Magdeburg, lamenting the 
desolation of her hearths,- five feet high ; and of protest- 
ing Spires, five feet high. On the inner faces of the 
battlements are the arms of the twenty-four cities which 
fouorht and suffered for the Reformation. The Luther 
Monument is, strictly speaking, in the centre of the en- 
closure. On the four pillars jutting out from the richly 
ornamented chief pedestal, are seated the statues of the 
four earliest champions 'of the Reformation, namely : 
Peter Waldus, 1197 : John Wickliffe, 1397 ; John Huss, 
1425 ; Hieronimus Savonarola, 1498. These are sur- 
mounted by the colossal statue of Luther (eleven feet 
high, with the pedestal twenty-eight feet), towering above 
and crowning, as it were, the whole. In front on the chief 
pedestal we read the bold, decisive words, which were 
perhaps the direct cause of the monument at Worms being 
erected: '^ Here I stand; I cannot do otherwise ; God 
help me ! Amen !" Underneath are the portraits of the 
two Saxon Electors, John the Constant and Frederick 
the Magnanimous. At the back is the passage : " The 
gospel that the Lord hath put into the mouths of the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 47 

Apostles, is His word : with it He strikes the world as if 
with lightning and thunder." On the lateral face to the 
right of Luther we read the two passages : " Faith is 
but the right and true life in God Himself." " In order 
to understand the scriptures rightly, the spirit of Christ 
is required." 

Underneath are the likenesses of the faithful com- 
panions and disciples of Luther, Justus Jonas to the left, 
and John Bugenhagen to the right. On the lateral face 
to the left of Luther are the words: " Those who rightly 
understand Christ, no human ordinance will be able to 
captivate ; they are free, not according to the flesh, but 
according to conscience." Underneath are the two Swiss 
Reformers, John Calvin and Ulric Zwingle — the former 
on the left, the latter on the right of the spectator. 

The lower cuhe^ as it is called, is adorned with bas- 
reliefs illustrating prominent deeds and incidents in 
Luther's life. Li front, we see Luther before the Diet 
at Worms (1521). At the back, Luther affixing the 
Theses to the gates of the castle church of Wittenberg, 
October 31, 1517. On Luther's left, the translation of 
the Bible and the Luther-sermon. On his right, the 
communion in both kinds, administered by Luther, and 
the marriage of the clergy — Luther joined in marriage 
by Bugenhagen. Besides these, there are many other 
designs, giving the history of the great events which 
transpired in the days of Luther as connected with the 
Reformation. 

It is in every way a grand and glorious monument, 
most befitting in every design, and executed with that 



48 A ?iIEW PATH 

skill and genius so common to the German mind. It is 
erected to the memory of the greatest man since the days 
of the apostle Paul, and in commemoration of the greatest 
event in all modern times. The execution of the monu- 
ment occupied nine years, and cost nearly a hundred 
thousand dollars. It was designed by Rietschel, par- 
tially modeled by him, and completed after his death by 
Kietz and Dondorj", of Dresden. 

For a long period of time, Germany has not seen such 
stirring days as those in June, 1868, when the monu- 
ment to Luther was unveiled. We can scarcely conceive 
the enthusiasm with which the thirty thousand spectators 
Avere filled, when the coverins; fell from the tall figures of 
that majestic group, as the solemn chorus " Ein' feste 
Burg ist unser Gott," in which the general inspiration in- 
voluntarily resounded through the air, was the true salu- 
tation to the glorious countenance of that plain priest, 
whose gigantic figure towers far above his predecessors, 
Waldus and Wickliife, IIuss and Savonarola, his fellow 
champions Reuchlin and Melanchthon, and his princely 
protectors, Frederick cf Saxony and Philip of Hessen. 
It w^as he who spoke the memorable words, before the 
imperial Dier, "Here I stand, I cannot do otherwise." 
And this is just the moment the artist has seized, and 
carved it in solid granite, in honor of the great Reformer, 
who was invincible in his rock-built faith, and inflexible 
in his will. 

German sculpture is now beginning to become national. 
Ernst Rietschel is the greatest master of this new style, 
and his Luther is his greatest production. Uninstructed 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 49 

people are tlie best judges of art in these matters. The 
impression which this mighty work produces must be seen 
and read upon the. faces of those plain country people, 
who every Lord's day perform their pilgrimage incroAvds 
to the monument, in order to comprehend the power of a 
national production. The word of the peasant, in his 
coarse apparel, looking up to Luther and exclaiming, 
" Thou wcrt obliged to come ; without thee we should 
have eaten naught but hay and straw, '^ weighs heavier 
in such a case than many a well-turned opinion of tech- 
nical criticism, which is the privilege of the connoisseur, 
but does not aifect the multitude. 

Worms boasted of another monument of Luther, which 
legend had created, before Rietschel and his distinguished 
pupils Kietz and Dondorf made themselves m.asters of 
Luther's history. 

When Luther, in April, 1521, in a little cart, and with 
his lute at his side, the imperial herald preceding, was 
driving towards Worms, the valiant knight, George von 
Frundsburg, is said to have asked him, '' Well, my little 
monk, dost thou believe in the victory of thy doctrine ?" 
to which Luther is said to have answered, "Look at that 
little sprig just now sprouting from the earth. As sure 
as that tender little plant will become a gigantic tree that 
will o'ertop the towers of the city, so sure Avill my doc- 
trine obtain the victory." And out of that little plant 
sprung the mighty elm which for so many scores of years 
was called "the Luther tree." A few summers ago it 
succumbed before a heavy storm. An enterprising Ger- 
man in Worms secured this tree, had it sawed into 



50 A NEW PATH 

blocks, and stored it in his relic establishment, where now 
he is making a fortune out of it bj carving all sorts of 
curious as well as useful articles out of the wood. Al- 
most every tourist who visits Worms purchases a relic 
carved out of the famous Luther tree. 

A short distance from the great cathedral, where the 
fine Heyl'sche Haus now stands, was formerly the Epis- 
copal Palace, in which met the famous Diet, and where 
Luther made his ever memorable defense before the Em- 
peror Charles Y. The garden surrounding this mansion, 
which now belongs to an English gentleman, is open to the 
public, and is very attractive. With many regrets we took 
our departure from Worms, the memorable spot of such 
thrilling scenes, and so important to the centuries past 
and those to come. Our visit to this consecrated pkoe 
was entirely satisfactory, abd we continued our journey 
with new inspiration, and rejoiced in the privilege of 
preaching the pure gospel which Luther preached, and 
for which he imperiled his life, and was so ready to yie 
all for Christ's sake. 



CHAPTER V. 



HEIDELBERG AND ITS ENVIRONS — THE GREAT CASTLE 
UNIVERSITY — BARBAROUS CUSTOMS. 







N our way from Worms to Heidelberg, we passed 
through some fine rural districts, and also some large 
and attractive towns, such as Speyer and Manheim. The 
former was a RoToan station, and often the residence of 
the German Emperors. The only real attraction is the 
cathedral, dating to the tenth century, which is a fine spec- 
imen of Romanesque churches. Manheim is a modern 
town,jand remarkable for the regularity with which it is 
laid out, having some fine squares, fountains and statues. 

To tell about Heidelberg would require more time and 
space than one chapter. There are few places in Ger- 
many that possess more historic interest than this old 
university town and its surroundings. It is a favorite 
place of resort for nearly all tourists, and is thronged by 
large numbers of visitors every season. The town itself, 
apart from its famous university and wonderful castle, is 
not so attractive ; still it contains some beautiful homes, 
and a goodly number of modern dwellings. It forms the 
key of the mountainous valley of the river Neckar, which 
below the town opens into the plain of the Rhine. It 
has a population of twenty-three thousand inhabitants, 
and gives signs of considerable thrift and industry. 

We spent three days in and about Heidelberg, stop- 
(51) 



OZ A NEW PATH 

ping at the inn Zum Bitter, erected in 1592 — a quaint 
old house, indeed, and one of the few which escaped 
destruction during the terrible devastations of 1693. 

The castle, which towers sublimely on a wooded spur 
nearly four hundred feet above the town, is to many the 
chief attraction of the place. In this respect it certainly 
is one of the wonders of the old world ; and, perhaps, of 
all the numerous castles for which Germany is so famous, 
there is none superior in magnitude and historic interest 
to the well-known Heidelberg castle. The walls are of 
vast extent, and form the most magnificent ruin in Ger- 
many. The ivy-clad ruins are moreover linked with in- 
numerable historical associations ; and the striking con- 
trast here presented between the " eternal rejuvenes- 
cence" of nature and t|ie instability of the proudest of 
human monuments, has called forth many a poetic 
effusion. 

The castle dates back to the fourteenth century, being 
founded by the Count Palatine Rudolph I. (1294), and 
combined the double character of palace and fortress. In 
its day it served as an immense and powerful fortifica- 
tion ; and judging from its ponderous walls, solid ma- 
sonry twenty-one feet thick, its extensive towers, etc., 
it must have done good service to those who were shel- 
tered within its enclosure during the shock of battle 
which so often raged around it in earlier times. 

On a beautiful July morning we started on foot to 
"do" this wonderful castle. On our way we fell in with 
a university student, who, by his familiar knowledge of 
the place and readiness to communicate all necessary in- 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 53 

formation, proved a very pleasant and profitable com- 
panion. 

The road leading up to the castle is quite steep, but 
well constructed and smooth, and leads through delight- 
ful shade and romantic scenery. For a time the castle 
is hidden from sight by reason of heavy groves of trees 
that cover the hill-side : but one is charmed with the won- 
derful panorama of beauty that rises to view in the deep 
valley and extended plains below. One is glad to linger 
on the way, in order that he may feast his eyes on the 
lovely views which meet his gaze at every spot in the 
advance upward. 

At last the entrance gate is reached, and one more 
long and steep ascent and you pass under an immense 
arch-way which brings you within the inner court, or 
yard. For a small fee you can visit the chapel, and 
cellar, and other parts of the interior, including a collec- 
tion of pictures, coins, relics, etc. The longer you wander 
amid this distinguished ruin, the largers it appears to grow, 
for you seem all the while to be making new discoveries ; 
and you are puzzled to know which to wonder at the more 
— the genius or the folly which led to such expenditures 
of time and money as were required to construct so vast 
a monument of stone in walls and towers. The royalty of 
the early times had an eye to vastness and permanence ; 
they built for the ages, yet their labors were but tem- 
porary. There are, however, yet remaining many mag- 
nificent specimens of architecture, richly adorned with 
beautiful sculpturing. In the niches of the walls facing 
the inner court, or yard, are a large number of statues, 



54 A NEW PAtH 

all having a symbolical meaning. In the lower niches 
are Joshua, Samson, Hercules and David ; in the middle 
niches are placed allegorical figures of Strength, Justice, 
Faith, Charity, Hope ; in the upper, Saturn, Mars, 
Venus, Mercury and Diana ; most of these being in a 
good state of preservation. Besides these are many more, 
and almost countless, forms of sculpture are wrought 
in the massive walls and towers that loom up on every 
hand. That portion called the English palace, was built 
by the Elector Frederick V. as a residence for his bride, 
daughter of James I. of England. 

The cellars of the castle are very extensive ; in one of 
them is the celebrated Tun, said to hold 283,200 bottles 
of wine or beer when full, or eight hundred hogsheads. 
It's a monster cask, ^nd is said to have been full only 
three times since its original construction in 1664. The 
old royalists who inhabited this castle and palace, it would 
seem, were good providers, and probably had immense 
drinking capacities. It certainly took some considerable 
coopering to build this Tun. 

Besides these, there are numerous objects of interest, 
such as vaulted passages, chapels, shady retreats, beauti- 
ful groves, fountains, banquet-halls, terraces, gardens, 
ivy-clad walls, every one of which has a thrilling historic 
story of the olden times connected with it. The folly 
and simplicity of kings are pointed out to the visitor in 
such things as the representation of the twins whose oc- 
cupation was wine drinking, and the fox- tail attached to a 
clock for curious movements, these things serving as 
amusements for the court people. 



ACROSS AIS OLD FIELD. 55 

The G-rainherg gallery contains an extensive collection 
of portraits of princes, chiefly of Palatinate, documents, 
manuscripts, coins, relics almost innumerable, all more or 
less connected Avith the history of the castle and town. 
Among the many things of interest in this connection, 
we saw two fine oil paintings of Luther and Melanch- 
thon, by Cranach ; also Luther's ring, beautifully 
mounted on a rich-colored velvet case. It was a gift to 
the castle by Prof. Paulus, at one time a professor in the 
Heidelberg University, and who died in that place. In 
a large glass case we saw, with other documents, a book 
by Rev. Dr. Kiefer, of the Reformed Church, with the 
title : " Ter-centenary Monument in Commemoration of 
the 300th Anniversary of the Heidelberg Catechism." 

After inspecting the inner parts of the castle we ram- 
bled amid the grounds and shady walks without, which 
are charming, Avith lovely views that tempt one to linger. 
We still have pleasant recollections of the delightful din- 
ner under the shady trees, in front of the excellent res- 
taurant on the grounds. By climbing the hill tower- 
ing three hundred feet above the castle, you have a still 
broader view ; and the tower on the Kcinigsstuhl (nine 
hundred feet above the castle, and nineteen hundred feet 
above the sea) commands a magnificent prospect of the 
valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, the 
Black Forest, etc. Besides these there are many shady 
foot-paths, mostly through vineyards, with views of inde- 
scribable beauty. 

But we must leave the beautiful mount and castle of 
story and song, and come down and see more of the town 



56 A NEW PATH 

and its distinguished university. This, with one or two 
exceptions, is the oldest university in Germany. As is 
known to the reader, it is hence that comes the Heidel- 
berg Catechism; and in the seventeenth century, it was 
the chief seat of Reformed learning in Germany. We 
found many things of great interest in our visit to this 
famous university. Its libraries are very extensive, con- 
taining over three hundred thousand volumes, eighty 
thousand pamphlets, nineteen hundred MSS. and fifteen 
hundred diplomas. There are many original MSS. of 
distinguished persons here, among them some of Luther's. 
In the afternoon we gained admittance to the lecture 
(forlasung) rooms, and heard the distinguished Dr. 
Bluntschli* lecture on International law. Of course it 
was German, yet we could follow the doctor in his argu- 
ment. We had hoped to hear a theological lecture, but 
in this were disappointed. Prof. Bluntschli is probably 
.sixty-five years old ; has a pleasant round face ; is heavy 
set, of medium height, with a pleasant address ; speaks 
fluently, standing behind a small desk with his hands 
folded in front of him throughout the lecture. He had 
some notes, but seldom referred to them. There were 
present thirty-three students ; some took down the lec- 
ture in full, others only taking notes, and some merely 
listened. On the Professor's entrance and departure, 

* Since the above was written we were pained to learn of the 
death of tlie distinguished Professor Bluntschli. He is the 
author of a number of ponderous volumes well known to the 
legal profession. His valuable library has been willed to the 
Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 57 

the young gentlemen applauded -with a shuffling of their 
feet. The number of students is seven hundred at 
present. The faculty is now about equally divided be- 
tween Protestants and Roman Catholics. 

Many of the students bear scars of different sizes on 
their faces, the results of dueling, which is still in vogue 
here and at other universities in Germany. These scars 
are considered honorable, and one is not regarded as a 
full-fledged student who has not gone through this bar- 
barous practice, and received or given a good slashing 
with the sword ; and even though he be minus an eye or 
part of his nose, his beauty is by no means considered 
diminished. It, however, does not always remain a mere 
scar, but now and then this barbarous practice results in 
death^murder. We were glad to know that the Amer- 
ican students, of whom there are not a few in Germany, 
do not engage in this shameful practice. 

The three days spent in and about Heidelberg were 
among the most pleasant and enjoyable of our whole trip 
in Europe ; and now memory lingers with delight about 
the beautiful Neckar, the grove-crowned heights of the 
castle, the shady foot paths, the terraces and beautiful 
gardens, the many sublime and lovely views, the rest and 
sweet repose, that so pleasantly and profitably ministered 
to us during our sojourn there. 



CHAPTER VI. 

HARVEST SCENES — RURAL LIFE — MILITARY RULE — WAR RELICS 
— STRASSBURG — A VEXED STRASSBURGER — ITS WONDERFUL 
CATHEDRAL — ITS FAMOUS CLOCK — GUTENBERG — THE GCETHE 
HOUSE. 

THE day from Heidelberg to Strassburg was excessively 
warm, and we suffered a great deal from the heat. 
The people told us that it had not been so warm in Ger- 
many for ten years as during that week. For a change, 
but more especially that we might learn more about Ger- 
man life among the masses, we took third-class cars, and 
found them quite comfortable. Our subsequent exper- 
ience proved that in Northern Germany third-class cars 
were even better than second class in some parts of France, 
or England, or Italy. With all the heat, nevertheless our 
ride to Strassburg was full of interest, and very enjoya- 
ble. The farmers were busy cutting their grain, which 
consisted mostly of rye. There was some wheat and 
barley. A man from the States is surprised at two 
things when he views a harvest scene in Germany : one 
is, the use of the small hand sickle in cutting grain ; the 
other, that so many women work in the harvest field, al- 
most bare-headed, and exposed to the broiling sun. We 
did see in a few instances the use of reapers and some 
small cradles. Upon inquiry we were told that most of 
the farms in Germany were small, and that in the major- 

(58) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 59 

ity of cases farmers could not afford the expenditure in- 
volved in such modern machinery as reapers and mowers. 
The wages paid, including board, for a day's labor in the 
harvest field, is one and a half mark, which is equal to 
thirty-six cents of our money. We wonder how many 
harvest hands our farmers could employ at such wages ? 
The Germans, however, do not seem to work hard, but 
take it very leisurely, and are very unlike in this respect 
to our people. Their manner of living in villages, instead 
of farm-houses scattered here and there, is a striking fea- 
ture to one not accustomed to German life. These vil- 
lages and towns are from one to three miles apart, and 
from these the farmers go out and do their work in the 
fields. The dwellings of these towns are built of red 
brick, and present an inviting appearance. This way of 
living has its advantages. It is more sociable, presents 
better opportunities for church-going, brings the school- 
house about equally near to all, and subjects the chil- 
dren to less exposure in the winter season. 

On our way to Strassburg we met with a number of 
people who were soon expecting to emigrate to America. 
As might be supposed, they were anxious to hear our 
answers to the many inquiries they made in reference to 
our country. We sincerely hope all their sanguine ex- 
pectations have been realized in regard to the perfect 
felicity they hoped to enjoy when once they reached these 
happy shores. Just passing through Germany, as well 
as other countries in Europe, and looking out upon their 
beautiful and w^ell cultivated fields, their well built towns 
and cities, and the home-like appearance of the country. 



60 A NEW PATH 

one would suppose that none of their people would care 
to leave such a land ; yet many thousands annually take 
their departure. So vast have been these numbers, that 
Germany is about passing stringent laws looking toward 
the regulating of emigration from their country. In 
some of the rural districts there is beginning to be real 
depletion in population, especially of young men. " It 
is not all gold that glitters," and the fact is, the military 
system, not only in Germany, but all over Europe, is be- 
coming almost unendurable ; and yet, under the existing 
state of things, it is a necessary evil to the very existence 
and maintenance of their different forms of government. 
There is naturally a growing disposition to get away 
from so oppressive a system, for it imposes an enormous 
taxation, and its people are plagued with a feeling of in- 
security even in the small possessions they may have. 

As we approached Strassburg we had numerous and 
very marked indications of war times, in the many and 
extensive fortifications which girdle the entire city. It 
is the ancient capital of Alsace, and was in possession of 
France from 1681 until 1871, when it was restored to 
Germany. There are few cities in Germany that have 
suffered more from the scourge of war than Strassburg. 
In the middle ages it was one of the most prosperous and 
powerful of the free cities of the German Empire. Their 
love of independence and skill in the arts of war often 
brought its people in deadly conflict with other nation- 
alities. They have always been distinguished as a brave 
people of almost unlimited endurance. The city has a 
population of one hundred thousand people, more than 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 61 

half of whom are Koman Catholics. It is situated on the 
river 111, about two miles from the Rhine, with which it is 
connected by a small and a large canal. In the late siege 
(1871) parts of the citj suffered greatly, some of its 
finest public buildings being entirely destroyed ; but it 
was the pride of the Strassburgers to remove every mark 
and trace of the w^ar inflicted upon them by the German 
army. The city in many parts presents a dilapidated 
appearance, and has many quaint and most singularly 
constructed buildings. The streets generally are narrow 
and crooked. Many of the houses have gothic gables, 
embellished with wood carving, the roofs being very 
steep and of immense proportions, with as many as four 
row^s of dormer windows, ranged one above the other. 
In many cases the roof portion of the house is larger 
than all the other parts. While there are some fine 
buildings and beautiful streets, yet, taking it all together, 
we hardly think the epithet of "most beautiful city" 
applied to Strassburg in an old " Yolkslied," which we 
learned to sing when a boy from an old Prussian soldier, 
would be applicable now. The city contains an unus- 
ually large proportion of poor people ; and the masses of 
the population are far from being satisfied under Ger- 
man rule. They are quick, too, in expressing their 
dissatisfaction. Having formed the acquaintance of an 
intelligent book dealer, we enquired how they were 
pleased under German rule (regierung) and his reply 
was, " Not at all, we are oppressed with fearful (furch- 
terlich) taxation, and only beggars and office-holders 
come here from Germany ; and we wish ^ das der TeufeV 
4 



62 A NEW PATH 

had all the Germans." When we said to him, "Weil, 
but that might include yourself, for we infer from your 
speech that you are a German," he replied, "No sir, I 
am a Strasshii?\ger.''^ 

In our strolls through the streets we noticed a great 
many storks perched on the chimney-tops of the houses, 
where they build their nests, seeming to be well satisfied 
with their lofty habitations. These birds come in the 
spring of the year, lay their eggs and hatch their young, 
and in the fall go south again. They are protected by 
law. They destroy insects of all kinds, and eat snakes 
and frogs, and are regarded as very beneficial to the 
farming community. 

One of the chief attractions of Strassburg is its great 
cathedral. A description of this in detail would be a 
useless effort, if one meant to present a true representa- 
tion of it. It must be seen to be properly appreciated. 
It was founded in 1015, on the site of the church built 
by Clovis in A. D. 510, and the interior was not finished 
until the thirteenth century. There is some very beauti- 
ful work in sculpture, and a great variety of architecture 
to be seen here. Its pillars and columns are w^onders of 
beauty, as well as its stained-glass windows, dating to the 
fifteenth century. The subdued light of the morning sun 
entering through these windows presents pictures of un- 
surpassed beauty in brightness and delicacy of color. Its 
carved pulpit is a wonder in itself, and is regarded as the 
finest, perhaps, in Europe. The entire building abounds 
in exquisitely wrought sculpturing and painting, symbol- 
izing different forms of Christianity. One almost be- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 63 

comes bewildered amid the many and imposing attrac- 
tions which everywhere meet the eye in these cathe- 
drals. They do appeal to the senses wonderfully, and 
yet we are not prepared to say that, therefore^ they are 
all useless or of no good. 

In the Strassburg cathedral we find the wonderful as- 
tronomical clock, constructed by a fellow townsman. 
This has greater attractions, especially at the hour of 
noon (for then it performs), for many visitors, than all 
the glories of the cathedral. It certainly is a very in- 
teresting and curiously constructed piece of mechanism. 
The exterior attracts spectators at all times, especially at 
noon. In the summer months, from fifty to one hundred 
persons daily stand before the clock at noon when it 
strikes, and gaze in wonder at its performance. On the 
first gallery an angel strikes the quarters on a bell in 
his hand, while a genie at his side reverses his sand- 
glass every hour* Higher up, around a skeleton which 
strikes the hours, are grouped figures representing boy- 
hood, youth, manhood, and old age (the four quar- 
ters of the hour). Under the first gallery the symbolic 
deity of each day steps out of a niche, Apollo on Sun- 
day, Diana on Monday, and so on. In the highest niche, 
at noon, the twelve apostles move round a figure of the 
Saviour. On the highest pinnacle of the side-tower, 
which contains the weights, is perched a cock which flaps 
its wings, stretches its neck, and crows, awakening the 
echoes of the remotest nooks of the cathedral. The 
mechanism also sets in motion a complete planetarium, 
behind which is a perpetual calendar. The most wonder- 



64 A NEW PATH 

ful feature of this piece of mechanism is that it is calcu- 
lated to regulate itself, and adapts its motions to the rev- 
olutions of the seasons for an almost unlimited number 
of years. The exterior of this cathedral is equally as 
much a wonder for beauty and massiveness. It has a 
spire four hundred and sixty-eight feet high, perhaps the 
highest in the world. 

The city is also graced with quite a number of fine 
statues. The one erected to Gutenberg, the inventor of 
printing, who made his first attempt at Strassburg in 
1435, is very beautiful. ^ The site where in the fourteenth 
century two thousand Jews were burned to death, accused 
of having poisoned the fountains and wells, which gave 
rise to the plague that so desolated the city, is still pointed 
out to the stranger. 

We visited the house in which Goethe lived when a 
student at the university located here. It is a plain 
three-story house, with smooth white walls, and externally 
finished in plastering. On a white marble stone, set in 
the wall above the first-floor windows, facing the street, 
is seen the following inscription : *' The Goethe house 
— 17T0-17T1." Time and space forbid to speak of the 
many more interesting things in this historic city. 



CHAPTER VII. 

PROM GERMANY INTO SWITZERLAND — AN ENCOUNTER BE- 
TWEEN THE CONDUCTOR (ZUGFUHRER) AND A PASSENGER — 
BALE — BERNE — ITS CURIOUS MONUMENTAL FOUNTAINS — ITS 
BEARS — IN SWITZERLAND — INTERLAKEN. 

AFTER enduring the great heat in Strassburg, it was 
a relief to even think that we were going into a 
locality where it would be cooler and more comfortable. 
Only one who has experienced it can really know how 
wearisome and exhausting it is to travel and be sight- 
seeing in hot weather. You remember how you ex- 
hausted your physical powers at the Centennial ; well, 
seeing Europe is a second Centennial, only on a larger 
scale. On our way to Switzerland we passed through 
some very attractive country and picturesque scenery. 
The land, generally, is fertile and well cultivated, tobacco 
being one of the principal products. We sincerely hoped 
it might be good tobacco, if such there could be, for of all 
such weed none has been so offensive to us as the Euro- 
pean. The hill slopes and mountain sides are covered 
with vineyards. The banks of the Rhine between Bonn 
and Bingen are not more thickly studded with castles 
than the eastern slopes of the Vosges, which loom up so 
sublimely in the distance. 

Now we pass by Colmar, Rufach, Bollweiler, and 
Miihlhausen, large and important towns. The well-known 

(65) 



66 A NEW PATH 

Arbeiterstadt, or artisan's colony, founded in 1853 by 
Dollfuss, to improve the condition of the working classes, 
lies in close proximity to Miihlhausen, and is a most 
worthy and useful institution. It has been helpful in 
developing among artisans talent which otherwise would 
never have been brought to public notice. An hour 
more and we approach Bale, or Basel, the first city of 
special interest in Switzerland. It is the capital of the 
Canton Basel-stadt, has a population of fifty thousand peo- 
ple, and is a busy commercial city. Here, just as the train 
had stopped, our attention was attracted by the conductor 
(Zugflihrer), who was earnestly engaged in what seemed 
a dispute with our fellow-passenger and traveling com- 
panion. They both gave evidence of being in earnest 
in the dispute, and yet neither of them understood a 
word the other said — the one presenting his case in 
English, the other in German; and you might know how 
plain they would make things to each other ! The dis- 
pute between them, though very amusing to one who 
understood both languages, became warmer and still 
warmer, until it threatened to become really serious. 
The Teuton would not yield, and the American, just as 
true to his well-known characteristic, was equally deter- 
mined. It was now time to interfere, and so the writer 
ventured to act as interpreter and avert serious trouble. 
The diificulty was, the passenger had stepped off the 
car on the left-hand side, which is a violation of their 
railroad regulations, instead of the right hand, and the 
conductor (Zugflihrer) interfered with the man as he 
endeavored to make his way from the train in that direc- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 67 

tion, telling him he must go over to the other side, as he 
subjected himself to both danger and a heavy fine. The 
passenger was determined not to be interrupted, and 
looked upon the conductor as interfering with his lib- 
erties. The passenger was wrong, and the conductor 
was right. We were able to explain matters, and the 
parties became reconciled. The knowledge of some 
German that afternoon, as on so many other occasions, 
served a good purpose ; for without this help there would 
have been serious trouble. The railroad regulations, in 
Germany, and Switzerland especially, are very strict, and 
remind one of military rule. This is as it ought to be ; 
it is a mutual advantage. 

Bale, like all the cities in the old world, is not without 
its cathedral, picture galleries, monuments, and concert 
gardens and statues. From the terrace in the rear of the 
cathedral there is a beautiful view of the Rhine and the 
heights of the Black Forest in the distance. But we 
have not more than a few hours' time, and are off 
again. 

Now the atmosphere is growing perceptibly cooler, 
and in the evening we rest comfortably at the hotel 
Pfistern, in Berne, right opposite the old tower which 
contains the curious clock, something like the one at 
Strassburg. 

In the evening, after returning from a stroll, we were 
reminded of the time when in our boyhood days, in the 
old academy at home, we used to join heartily in singing, 
from Pelton's outline maps, the geography of the old 
world and the new, and with what emphasis we used to 



68 A NEW PATH 

sing : " Switzerland, Berne, Lucerne, Zurich.'^'' In those 
days Berne was too far away to be even thought of as 
probable for a visit. Time does wonders, however, and 
we never had sweeter sleep than that and succeeding 
nights in Berne. Here also, for the first time, was 
brought forward regularly the well-known (over there 
only) Swiss honey. There is none like it, for superior 
quality, in the world. 

This is certainly a beautiful and interesting city of forty 
thousand people. Many of its streets are as clean as if 
newly scrubbed, and are of peculiar structure. They are 
provided with arcades — that is, the second story of the 
houses extends over the sidewalks and rests on heavy 
masonry, pillar- shaped, placed on Avhat we call the curb. 
These extensions are usually of white stone, and beauti- 
fully arched. At night especially, when the many attrac- 
tive stores, in which Berne greatly excels, are lighted up, 
these streets present a brilliant appearance. You can 
walk over a great part of the city under these magnifi- 
cent archways, needing no umbrella for protection against 
rain or sun. 

We are also introduced to strange street scenes — 
dogs hitched to carts on their way to market, women 
in company with men sawing and splitting wood, im- 
mense wooden milk cans and willow baskets carried by 
women from door to door, selling their wares. Among 
the strangest scenes was that of a woman hitched in a 
wagon side by side with a cow. One is also struck with 
the peculiar dress, especially of the females — the large 
butterfly-shaped head-dress, the white linen bodies. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 69 

adorned with fine silver chains, and beautifully pleated 
sleeves. 

Numerous quaint and monumental fountains decorate 
he streets. As the city derives its name from the word 
Bdren^ the German name for bears, so it is famous for 
its hears^ sculptured, automatic, and living. The figure 
of that interesting quadruped is conspicuous everywhere : 
in the armorial bearings of the Canton, on the fountains, 
on the city gates, its houses, and even jewelry. Every- 
thing is decidedly bearish , Especially of note is the 
Kindlifresser fountain, or child-devouring one. This is 
a fountain, surmounted with some sort of statuary, repre- 
senting a man who has gathered a number of children in 
his arms and side-pockets, and is in the act of devouring 
one of the innocent ones. From the little progress made 
in his efforts to eat this one, the rest, though doubtless 
suffering from fear that their turn will come next, need 
not be distressed that it will come very soon, for the 
fresser has been gnawing at the first one for several 
centuries. 

But if Berne has sculptured and automatic bears, it 
also has living ones. For many centuries living bears 
have been kept in a very liberal manner at the expense 
of the city, and a fund is still devoted to that purpose. 
The bear-den or Barengraben is among the things to be 
visited here ; and of course we paid our respects to Bruin, 
who has extensive and substantial quarters. These quad- 
rupeds give one a friendly greeting, sitting on their 
haunches and extending their forepaws, with their mouths 
open ; they look very innocent and harmless, but they 
4* 



70 A NEW PATH 

are nevertheless really ferocious and deceitful bears. 
This was tragically demonstrated in the case of an 
Englishman who a few years ago accidentally fell into one 
of their dens, and was almost devoured by the ferocious 
beasts before he could be rescued. 

Berne also affords a fine cathedral, once Roman Cath- 
olic, but since Switzerland's independence converted into 
a Calvinistic church. It is now very plain, and stripped 
of everything that looks Romish. It however contains 
a number of beautiful monuments and memorials in honor 
of the soldiers who fell in the war for Swiss inde- 
pendence. From the Terrace, in the rear of the Cathe- 
dral, one has presented a glorious panorama of mountain 
scenery. 

But we must leave Berne, yet not w^ithout regret, for 
still further advances into Switzerland. By rail we reach 
Thun, a picturesque and delightfully situated town, 
washed by the river Aar. Here Ave took the boat and 
passed from the river into Lake Thun. This is a charm- 
ing sheet of water, commanding some sublime scenery. 
It is nestled between steep and towering mountains. Its 
shores are dotted with beautiful villas and towns, green 
fields, and pleasant summer resorts. As we glide quietly 
over its waters, the Alps begin to loom up grandly on 
every side. The water is of a peculiar soapy-green 
color, caused by the melting of the snow and ice from the 
Alps ; later in the summer it is very clear. The lake con- 
tains many varieties of fine fish, among others the speckled 
trout. 

An hour's sail brought us to Darlagin, where, amidst 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 71 

a rain-storm, we passed from the boat to the railway 
train, which consisted of three two-story cars. One 
hour more, and we were domiciled comfortably in the 
Hotel Oherland at Interlaken, of which we shall hear 
again. 



CHAPTER yill. 

IN SWITZERLAND — INTERLAKEN — THE BEAUTIFUL SUNSET — 
AN EXCURSION — GRINDELWALD — ITS GLACIERS — LAUTER- 
BRUNNEN. 

WE are now in one of the most lovely spots in the 
Alps — the quiet vale of Interlaken. As the name 
implies, it lies " between the lakes" of Brienz and Thun. 
There is perhaps no place in Switzerland more popular 
with tourists than Interlaken. It is a place, above all 
others, that meets the wants of those who seek rest and 
quiet, and yet is full of interest and pleasant inspiration. 
Its situation is lovely, resting at the feet of the snow-clad 
Yungfrau, the famous mountain, towering nearly fourteen 
thousand feet into the sky — a form of beauty as well as 
awful majesty- There is also a range of high and steep 
mountains immediately behind the town, which is separ- 
ated from them by the Nare, a narrow but deep and rap- 
idly flowing stream. 

The town, though having many lovely shaded walks, 
has but one principal street, which is wide and beautiful. 
In this are situated the large and well-kept hotels and 
boarding houses. These places are profusely decorated 
with the richest flowers and flower-beds artistically ar- 
ranged. On this broad street great numbers gather for 
the evening promenade, and also to witness the beautiful 
sunsets, which are of rare splendor and attraction. From 
many points on this street there is an open, full view of 

(72) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 73 

the splendor of the Bernese Oberland, But of all the 
mountains in view, there is none equal to the wonderful 
Yungfrau. It stands in quiet, sublime grandeur, robed 
in its perpetual snowy vestments — the becoming dress of 
a bride — the highest of the numerous peaks that lift their 
lofty heads into the clear blue sky. Indelibly fixed in 
our mind is the glorious sunset which one July evening 
enraptured us all, as we walked in view of the mountain 
range. The picture was more beautiful than any human 
skill can paint — it was the painting of the great Artist of 
the universe, who, that evening, glorified the snow-white 
mountain with a heavenly glow of beauty. The sur- 
rounding mountains were covered with a dark green 
foliage, and shaded with the still darker shadows of 
evening that were falling on them. The sky was cloud- 
less. The white-robed Yungfrau alone caught the golden 
light of the setting sun, kindling brighter and brighter 
on its summit and massy side, till it seemed lost in glor- 
ious lustre. It was a mountain transformed into glowing- 
beauty of purple, scarlet and gold, so brilliant that it 
seemed almost like a second sun rising to dispel with its 
flood of light the evening shades that were gathering 
over surrounding mountains and valleys. With rap- 
turous delight we beheld the fading glories of that splen- 
did sunset over the Yungfrau. 

The town contains many beautiful shops and fancy 
stores. In these are found large varieties of articles to 
tempt the fancy of visitors. Artistic carvings in wood 
and ivory and precious stones are numerous. These can 
be bought for various prices, 



74 A NEW PATH 

In common with other resorts for tourists in Europe, 
Interlaken also boasts of its Kursaal, where the finest 
music may be enjoyed at regular hours of the day and 
evening. You pay for this, whether you attend the 
splendid concerts or not. You will be sure to find on 
your hotel bill a charge for music. This may be prop- 
erly considered an imposition, and is veliemeiitly so re- 
garded by a stray one who now and then comes along as 
a non-lover of music. But the illuminated grounds are so 
beautiful, the music so charming, the accommodations so 
excellent, and the tax to each visitor so small, that one 
becomes easily reconciled to the paying part. But even 
so good a thing as sweet music, like the gospel, some 
people would enjoy without paying for. A good thing 
is always better when paid for than otherwise. 

There are a number of delightful excursions which 
may be made from Interlaken into difierent parts of 
the neighborhood ; among these Grindelwald and Lau- 
terbrunnen are the favorite ones. Four of us arranged 
to visit these renowned places. Six o'clock in the morn- 
ing found us on our way, seated in a good carriage, 
drawn by a span of excellent horses, in the hands of a 
good driver. The morning was bright and the air brac- 
ing. We took a seat alongside of the driver, who was 
genuine Swiss, and took pleasure in pointing out to us 
the places of note and historic interest. The road soon 
leads from the valley into the mountains, and we rapidly 
approach the snowy and ice-crowned peaks, towering in 
sublime heights around us. Now we are amid genuine 
Alpine scenery, majestic mountains, snow and ice, the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. T5 

roaring of cataracts, and the rumbling noise of distant 
avalanches. All along the steep ascent we note the 
Swiss cottage perched amid the grassy slopes of the 
mountain side, the goats feeding amid the rock cliffs, the 
busy farmer gathering the grass and grain of the sea- 
son, and laying in store for the coming winter. Now 
and then we hear the sounds of the Alpine horn, and 
then at long intervals we pass the Swiss sitting by the 
roadside, blowing in solemn mood into his horn twelve 
feet long, and waking the sweetest echoes amid the ever- 
lasting peaks. At every turn we are met by the flower 
girls coming out of their little booths, urging us to buy 
their small bouquets and dishes of goats' milk. The 
boys put us under obligations by whisking the flies from 
the horses, and placing large wooden blocks under the 
carriage wheels when we stop to rest the horses in their 
long and weary pull. Thus in the most secluded spots 
you have bids made for your money, and plenty of oppor- 
tunities to spend it. 

But now Grindelwald is reached. This is a scattered 
town of three thousand people, and the centre of all that 
is grand and majestic in Swiss scenery. It is overlooked 
by almost all the great Oberland giants, the Yungfrau, 
the Monch, the Eiger, the Wetterhorn or Peak of 
Tempests, the Schreckhorn or Peak of Terror, Finster- 
aarhorn or Peak of Darkness. All range in height 
from twelve to fourteen thousand feet above sea level, 
their summits crowned with perpetual snows, and for- 
ever bearing the seal of their appointed symbol ; " Thy 
righteousness is like the great mountains," ''Who by His 



76 A NEW pa1:h 

strength setteth fast the mountains; being girded with 
power." From the vast snow-fields above, two large 
glaciers descend into the Grindelwald valley. The chief 
attractions of Grindelwald are these glaciers, the upper 
and the lower. The latter is much the larger, but the 
ice of the former is far purer, and the crevasses more 
beautiful. These glaciers are wonders, being immense 
fields or masses of ice, or snow and ice, formed in the 
region of perpetual snow, and moving slowly down moun- 
tain slopes and valleys, at the rate of from ten to twenty 
inches a day. The stones which are caught between 
them and the rocks over which they pass, or which are 
imbedded in the ice and dragged along by it over those 
rocks, are subjected to a crushing and grinding power 
altogether unparalleled by any other force in constant 
action. The dust to which these stones are reduced by 
the friction, is carried down by the streams which flow 
from the meUino; o;lacier, so that the waters are whitened 
with dissolved dust of granite, and this in proportion to 
the heat of the preceding hours of the day, and to the 
power and size of the glacier which feeds them. 

We started on foot, a distance of three miles, for the 
upper glacier of the Grindelwald, and a good, long, steady 
tramp brought us to the foot of the Wetterhorn glacier. 
Here we stand in the presence of matchless beauty and 
sublimity of scenery in nature. The running and rush- 
ing of the floods from beneath the glacier, the noise, like 
the voice of many thunders, produced by the avalanches 
of snow and ice, falling thirty miles away, the glare of 
the noonday sun on the ice-fields, giving them a beautiful 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 77 

tinge of blue, much like that which one sees in the wake 
of a vessel at sea, all contributed to make this the most 
sublime and wonderful spot we had yet visited. We 
were on the glacier, and in it — having entered by a grotto 
cut through a solid bed of ice for a long distance. After 
having climbed and walked ourselves weary, and having 
a better idea of what a glacier is than ever before, we 
retraced our steps and rested at the foot of its ascent. 
Here we had a refreshing lunch, which in part consisted 
of strawberries and cream, nicely prepared by a Swiss 
maiden, who informed us that the berries were gathered 
near the place where we were eating them. 

We find ourselves back again in the town, and an hour 
later we are on our way to Lauterbrunnen, twelve miles 
distant.^ It is situated on both sides of the Lutschine, in 
a narrow valley so shut in by rocky walls that in the win- 
ter the sun is hardly seen at all, and even in July not 
before seven o'clock in the morning. As its name indi- 
cates, Lauterbrunnen — '' nothing but springs" — is nestled 
amid these giant mountains. In the vicinity fountains are 
very numerous, chief of which is the Staubbach, the high- 
est fall in Europe, the water having a perpendicular fall of 
nearly nine hundred feet. It is but a short distance from 
the inn. The body of water is not large, which gives it 
the appearance of spray or dust long before it reaches 
the bottom; hence its name. Byron, in his Manfred, 
compares its appearance to the tail of the white horse on 
which death was mounted in the Apocalypse. Not far 
off is the Wengern Alp, from which point are seen and 
heard the mighty avalanches of the Yungfrau and the 



78 A NEW PATH 

greater and lesser Scheideck. Here it is said Lord 
Byron wrote his " Manfred." 

"Ye avalanches, whom a breath draws down 
In mountains overwhehning, come and crush m_e. 
I hear ye momently, above, beneath, 
Crush with a frequent conflict." 

The village abounds in large lace shops and carving 
establishments. The sides of the streets are lined with 
small and large booths, where a great manj Swiss women 
and girls are busy knitting the finest laces, which are 
marvelously cheap. But the lateness of the hour admon- 
ishes us to be getting down the mountain, and at sunset 
we are again in the village of Interlaken, delighted with 
our excursion, and with appetites well sharpened for the 
rich and well-prepared Swiss meal that awaited us at the 
Hotel Oberland. 



CHAPTER IX. 

INTERLAKEN TO LUCERNE — THE BRUNIG PASS — ALPINE SCEN- 
ERY — LUCERNE AND ITS BEAUTIFUL LAKE. 

THE last day spent in Interlaken was the Lord's day, 
and a profitable day it proved to be. In the early 
morning the church bells sent forth their rich peals, re- 
minding all of the privileges the day affords, and inviting 
the people to the house of the Lord for worship. At 9 
a. m. I started in search of a German church to which I 
had been directed, and soon found it, and at once gained 
admittance. The church edifice, both externally and in- 
ternally, gave many striking proofs of great age, and need 
of repairs. The people attending service, with a few 
exceptions, evidently were of the hardworking class. 
They seemed much interested in the service, and gave 
evidence of great devoutness. Children constituted a 
large portion of the congregation, and here, as elsewhere 
in Switzerland, the children have a peculiarly oldish look 
the reason for which I am not able to give, unless it be 
their almost constant exposure and hard work in those 
elevated regions. 

The congregation was of the Swiss Reformed faith, and 
the pastor preached an earnest good, gospel sermon (of 
course in German) on " the God of all comfort." The 
large stone edifice was well filled with devout hearers. 
The services reminded me somewhat of our own, only 

(79) 



80 A NEW PATH 

during the reading of the Scripture lessons the congre- 
gation remained standing. The closing prayer the pastor 
read. There was no doxologj, the benediction imme- 
diately following the Lord's Prayer. 

As far as I could learn, the different churches of the 
town were well attended in the morning. The stores were 
mostly closed, and the place had settled down to a quiet 
Lord's day, much like in our own country. Li the after- 
noon, however, the town presented a strikingly different 
aspect — all the stores being open, and many people busy 
making purchases, the Kursaal, with its restaurant, bil- 
liari halls, and band of music, all in full blast — and 
Sunday seemed to be entirely set aside during the after 
part and evening of the da}^ 

There is perhaps not another town that can boast of so 
much external union in the matter of churches as Liter- 
laken. Here is a Roman Catholic church, a Scotch 
Presbyterian, and an Episcopal church, all worshiping in 
one edifice under one roof. It happens to be an old con- 
vent building, which was disbanded many years ago. 
The doors of the Catholic and Episcopal congregations 
are alongside of each other, each designated by a tin 
sign, while the Scotch congregation worships in another 
wing of the building. This is coming close together, and 
yet, when one thinks for a moment, there is no organic 
union among these different churches, though perhaps as 
much of an approximation toward it as some who 
worship far apart, but make great demonstrations to the 
world of their oneness with other denominations. 

But the time has come for us to bid adieu to Interlaken ; 



ACROSS AN OLD J^IELB. 81 

and accordingly, on Monday morning, we find ourselves, 
in company with four others, in a carriage starting for 
Lucerne over the Brlinig Pass, the distance being forty 
miles. We had pleasant company, one of our number- 
being Prof. Schmidt (a Lutheran) and son, from Eise- 
nach, the former a teacher in the gymnasium there. The 
■ morning was all that we could desire for a pleasant ride. 
The road took us along the high shores of Lake Brienz. 
By some this is regarded the most beautiful lake in Switz- 
erland, although its length is only seven miles, and its 
width about two. Its depth is from five hundred to two 
thousand feet. Is is certainly a charming sheet of water. 
Its shores are beautifully wooded with delightful groves, 
and mountains tower in sublime heights on every side. 
After an "hour's ride we reached the end of the lake, 
where is located Meyringen, an inviting village in the 
beautiful vale of Hasli. On the opposite side of the lake 
we see the wonderful Giessbach Falls, a series of cascades 
leaping from a height of eleven hundred feet down into 
the lake. In the summer months, until September, they 
are illuminated with colored lights every evening — an 
attempt to " paint the lily," which is less ridiculous than 
that sort of presumption generally proves. The town of 
Meyringen abounds in carvers in wood, and is a favorite 
place for tourists. It is a centre for excursions, six 
Alpine routes converging here. 

From this point begins the steep ascent of the moun- 
tain pass. As we rise above the valley on the zigzagging 
road, we are treated to the most charming scenery. We 
have mountains of snow and ice towering all around us ; 



b2 A NEW PATH 

beautiful cascades on our right and left; now passing 
through villages and vineyards and quiet homes amid 
the lonely mountains. Among the surprising things in 
the Alps are the fine roads. They are as solid and 
smooth as the finest carriage roads in our finest city parks, 
and this contributes very much to the pleasure of travel. 

We have now reached the top of the Briinig Pass, 
three thousand four hundred feet above tide. From 
these heights we look down upon the valley of Unter 
Land^ with its silvery streams threading their way in 
the beautiful sunlight, its dense forests, its shady groves, 
and rich harvest fields waving their golden grain. To 
ride leisurely along, through such a picturesque country 
with such scenery, could not fail to contribute rare pleas- 
ure and profitable enjoyment. 

At Lungern we rested for dinner at the Hotel Briinig, 
and partook of a most refreshing repast. Our descent 
from this point was equally enjoyable, our surroundings 
being full of interest and inspiration. There is so much 
variety of scenery that one never wearies. We also 
meet with sreat numbers of tourists travelino; in almost 
every conceivable way, some on foot, some in carriages, 
others in diligence^ all trying to take in the glories of the 
great Alps. 

We now come into the lake region. First we pass 
Lake Lungern, then comes Lake Sarnen, and then others 
of smaller note. These waters sleep in their quiet beauty, 
hemmed in by moss-covered and grassy banks, with forest 
groves, overshadowed with great mountain peaks of snow. 
Nearly all the way from Lungern to Lucerne the road- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 83 

way is lined with crosses and crucifixes, thus reminding 
the traveler very sensibly of the faith cherished by the 
natives of those regions. 

Towards evening we approached the shores of Lake 
Lucerne ; and now we are in the presence of another of 
the many wonderful and beautiful attractions of Switzer- 
land. At once we are impressed with the indescribable 
beauty of the lake. Its water is so clear ; its shores 
adorned with attractive cottages and white villages; at 
different places the mountains with their broad green 
sides standing out of the very water's edge. In passing 
upon its shores we think of the tradition which tells us 
that it was in this lake that Pilate of the Scriptures 
drowned himself. If so, he could hardly have selected a 
more lovely spot to sleep the long last sleep. 

At six in the evening we reached Lucerne, and found 
excellent quarters at the Hotel des Balanges a Lu- 
cerne^ on the banks of the river Reuss, which flows im- 
mediately out of the lake. Here I had a most charming 
view of the city, and among other things was not least 
the clear running river, with its fine large fish disporting 
themselves in its w^aters immediately below the balcony 
of my window. 

Lucerne itself is an interesting city of fifteen thousand 
people. It is the capital of the canton of the same name. 
The city is highly picturesque, and the environs are 
noted for the exquisite beauty and grandeur of their 
scenery. It is beautifully situated at the northwest ex- 
tremity of Lake Lucerne, on both sides of the river 
Reuss. Among the principal objects of interest are its 



84 A NEW PATH 

quaint bridges spanning the Reuss. The Capelhruclce ia 
a bridge open on the sides, but roofed, and on the ceil- 
ing is a set of paintings representing episodes in the lives 
of Sts. Leger and Maurice, the patron saints of the city. 
The Ancient Tower in the middle of the river was 
formerly used as a light-house, whence the name of 
the city (Lucerne signified light-house). The Mulilen- 
hrilcke is another bridge, ornamented with thirty-six 
paintings representing the Dance of Death, celebrated in 
Longfellow's " Golden Legend." Of course we did not 
fail to visit the celebrated Lion of Lucerne, sculptured 
in 1821, in memory of the Swiss gaard who fell defend- 
ing the Tuilleries, August 10th, 1792. It is hewn out of 
the natural sandstone rock in the side of a hill. It rep- 
resents a lion of colossal proportions, twenty-eight feet 
long by twenty high ; the lion holds the lily of France 
in his paws, which he endeavors to protect with his last 
breath, his life-blood oozing from a wound made by a 
spear which still remains in his side. The names of 
twenty-six officers who fell in the same battle, are also 
cut in the solid rock below the lion. Above is carved : 
'^ Helvetiorum ficlei ae virtuti;^^ "To the fidelity and 
virtue of the Helvetians." 

We also visited the Hofkirclie (built in 1506). It 
contains many interesting things, such as carved stalls 
and altars, and the famous organ, which some judges 
prefer to the one at Freiburg. 



CHAPTER X. 

LAKE LUCERNE — WILLIAM TELL — ST. GOTHARD PASS— ITS PAS- 
SAGE — OYER THE ALPS INTO ITALY. 

PERHAPS the chief attraction of Lucerne is its beau- 
tiful lake. It certainly is one of the grandest in 
Switzerland, and is invested with special interest because 
of its many historical associations connected with the ex- 
ploits of William Tell, the national hero of Switzerland. 
It was a bright noon- day when we embarked on the boat 
at Lucerne, bound for Fluelen, twenty-five miles distant. 
Before sailing far, we found ourselves perfectly en- 
tranced with the beauty and grandeur of scenery that lay 
all about us. The lake itself was a perfect calm, its 
waters pure and of light blue, mirroring the clouds in its 
frame of mountain glory. Its shores are dotted with 
many charming villages and towns, its hills green robed, 
its mountains abrupt, perpendicular, grand. None of 
them are less than three thousand feet in height, and 
most of them are six thousand ; and, with their summits 
reflected in the glassy water, they present a scene in nature 
both grand and sublime. At several points on the lake 
we could see, high up on the mountain-sides, large hotels, 
with four or five hundred feet front, with flags waving 
from their steeples, and all the evidences of being occu- 
pied to their full capacity. The width of the lake is not 
more than a mile to a mile and a half, and its windings 
5 (85) 



86 A NEW PATH 

and turnings among the mountains are so abrupt that the 
eye cannot discern its course more than half a mile ahead. 
In the gorges of the precipitous mountains are located 
towns with their array of hotels. At these places the 
boats touch, leaving and taking passengers. After stop- 
ping at Buochs, Beckenried, and Gersau, we reached 
Brunnen, one of the most charming towns on the lake, 
and a place of much resort. Leaving Brunnen, we enter 
the bay of Uri, or south arm of the lake, where the banks 
approach each other and become more precipitous, with 
glimpses of snowy peaks here and there through the 
gorges. A short distance from Brunnen, a perpendicular 
rock rises from the water over one hundred feet high, 
called the Schillerstein. 

Now we pass the Rutli, the meadow where on the 
night of November 7th, 1307, the Swiss patriots bound 
themselves by an oath to fight their oppressors, the Aus- 
trians, to the death. According to tradition, on the same 
spot where the conspirators took the oath to deliver their 
country from this tyranny, three springs of water (in 
honor of the three leading representatives of the three 
cantons) spouted up, over which a small hut has been 
erected. 

About six miles farther on we arrive at Tell's chapel, 
the Mecca of all Switzerland. It is situted on a small 
plateau washed by the waters of the lake. It is a beau- 
tiful structure. It was erected by the canton of Uri in 
1388, thirty-one years after the death of William Tell, 
to whose memory it was consecrated in the presence of 
one hundred and fourteen persons who, it is said, knew 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 87 

him personally. The chapel is erected on the precise 
spot where, according to tradition, Tell escaped on shore 
from the boat in which Gessler, the Austrian governor, 
was conveying him to prison. 

The traditionary circumstances in the life of Tell are 
cherished in the memories of his countrymen with the 
fondest affection. Yet, there are those who are bold 
enough to assert that the whole story is a fable. We 
were told, however, that every Sunday after Easter a 
procession of boats, richly decorated, proceeds slowly to 
the chapel, where, after mass is celebrated, a patriotic 
sermon is preached to the worshiping pilgrims. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon we reached Fluelen, 
located at the end of the lake, and at once proceeded to 
Altdorf, a "small town two miles distant, made so famous 
by the exploits of William Tell. The place is pointed 
out where Tell shot the apple from his son's head. The 
spot where Tell stood is marked by a fountain surmounted 
by a statue, representing him standing erect with his left 
hand resting on his bow, and holding an arrow in his 
right hand pointing heavenward. About one hundred 
paces from this, another fountain marks the spot where 
Gessler hung his hat to be worshiped by the passing peo- 
ple, and where the son of Tell was bound with the apple 
on his head, preparatory to the famous shot which led to 
the freedom of Switzerland. 

After visiting the old church and its quaint cemetery 
and adjacent buildings, which contain some fine paint- 
ings, and where are kept on exhibition a large number of 
skulls of Swiss soldiers who fell in defence of their coun- 



88 A NEW PATH 

try, and not forgetting to supply ourselves with a good 
Swiss dinner, we returned to Fluelen; where, at 4 p. m. 
we took the diligence (stage) for Andermatt, through 
the St. Gothard pass, on to Italy. 

The pass of St. Gothard is one of the oldest and most 
frequented of routes across the Alps, but the present ad- 
mirable highway dates back only some thirty years. By 
this path many of the barbarian hordes made their way 
into Italy in the old Roman days. Though the pass 
affords a good road, and we had a span of four excellent 
horses, a true son of Jehu as driver, and were, in every 
way, well equipped for the ride over the Alps, a distance 
of eighty miles, yet the dangers of the way are many 
and great, and the discomforts not a few. The preci- 
pices are indeed fearful, and one almost holds his breath 
as he sees himself drawn over the edges of perpendicular 
heights of two thousand feet. Were a trace to break, or 
the diligefiee to get as much as one foot out of its ap- 
pointed way, nothing could avert a fearful catastrophe, 
the fall of the coach into the deep abyss below, a dis- 
tance of two thousand feet. The road itself shows mar- 
velous engineering skill in its construction. 

From Fluelen to Andermatt, seven hours' ride, ascend- 
ing the defile of the river Reuss, presents a road unsur- 
passed for desolate and magnificent scenery. The giant 
mountain peaks from four to six thousand feet high tower- 
ing in sublime grandeur on every side, the rocky cliffs, 
the roaring and dashing of the Reuss through the deep, 
narrow defile, now to the right, then to the left of the way, 
the steep ascent of the zigzagging road apparently hang- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 89 

ing by the mountain-side, along which it is walled many 
hundreds of feet high, the sudden descent of the great 
and dense clouds, rolling down from the high mountain 
peaks, the distant thunder of the avalanches, the solitary 
grandeur which marks every aspect in nature — all con- 
tribute to make the scenery indescribably desolate and 
picturesque. 

We passed through a number of small and large towns, 
which nestle even in these solitary mountains. The com- 
ing of the diligence is quite an event to the people of 
these villages. Now we are overtaken with impenetra- 
ble darkness, and the rain pours down in torrents. At 
the next turn we pass above the clouds, the stars glitter 
above us, and the rain falls below us. A little way be- 
low Andermatt we cross the famous Devil's Bridge or 
Teyfelsbrilcke, with the old ruined bridge below, the 
scene of desperate fighting between the Austrians and 
French in 1799. 

Soon after we pass through the Urner Loch^ or hole 
of tin, a long tunnel hewn through the solid rock. 

At 11 p. m. we reached Andermatt, the table land of 
the Alps (five thousand feet above the sea), weary and 
cold, and after some refreshments ev^en at so late an hour, 
rested for the night at the hotel Brie Kbnige (Three 
Kings). We were not surprised to find, in so high an 
altitude, hotel bills proportionally high. 

At four next morning we were called out, and at five 
were again on our way, in the diligence. A few miles 
on and we reached Hospenthal, where commences a new 
ascent on the St. Gothard, zigzagging for three hours to 



90 A NEW PATH 

the summit. It is a dreary, cold, and desolate way, but 
the monotony is broken now and then by getting out of 
the diligence and taking it on foot, and plucking flowers 
which here and there lift their modest heads amid the 
frowning rocks. Now we enter the snow and ice fields, 
and at 8 a. m. the summit is reached, at a height of seven 
thousand feet above the sea. Here burst upon our view 
a panorama of mountain scenery that we never saw 
equaled but once, and that when standing upon the top 
of Pike's Peak in our own Rocky mountains. 

It is cold even this July day, and the wind blows a 
gale. Within a circle of ten miles of this point are the 
sources of the Rhine, and the Rhone, and the Reuss. 
Near the summit is a stone on which the inscription 
Suwarrow Victor^ commemorates his victory over the 
French in the year 1799. Here he was repulsed by the 
French for the first time ; indignant, he caused a grave 
to be dug, and lying down in it declared he would die 
where " his children " had suffered disgrace. The ap- 
peal aroused them to a more determined attack, and the 
French were driven from their position at an immense 
sacrifice, twenty-five thousand Russians following their 
leader Suwarrow. 

After a little warming up by the side of a warm stove, 
and with some hot coffbe and dry bread taken inwardly 
— for that is all the hotel man had that day — we again 
repair to the diligence and proceed on our way, passing 
a number of small lakes which sleep in the crown of these 
mountains. And now begins the rapid descent on the 
Italian side as far as Airola. We go down five thousand 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 91 

feet in eight miles. We go swiftly, and being on the 
sunny side of the mountains, it is more pleasant. The 
construction of the road-bed is a wonder, as well as a 
marvel of skillful engineering. The turns and zigzags are 
numerous, and at times entire circles are made. At 
some points, as many as ten and twelve terraces of the 
road are visible at once, as you gaze down the dizzy 
mountain side. Seven miles away, down in the green 
valley, sleeps the first Italian town, Airola, though still 
in Switzerland. Here we have time for a hurried break- 
fast ; but the bread being so hard, we leave it for others 
who have more time to break their jaws over it than we, 
and continue our journey through a hilly and mountain- 
ous country, with here and there a village, until we reach 
the town of Biasco, on the St. Gothard railway, where 
we gladly leave the diligence in exchange for the cars. 
We now quickly pass on through Bellinzona, to Locarno, 
where we rest and wait for the steamer that is to carry 
us over the beautiful lake Maggiore into Italy. 



CHAPTER XL 

LALE MAGGIORE — ARONA — MILAN — ITS CATHEDRAL. 

ON our way through the Gothard Pass we saw large 
numbers of workmen busy constructing the St. 
Gothard railway. This great public enterprise has 
now reached completion. We have just read an account 
of a successful trial trip that was made through its great 
tunnel, the St. Gothard, by a train of cars, and that the 
entire road is now open to traffic. This tunnel is 
the longest in the world, its length being nine miles and 
a half, and shows wonderful skill in engineering, as in- 
deed does this entire railway. The total cost of the work 
of the tunnel is 56,808,620 francs, or about $11,000,000. 
As these old countries catch the spirit of our free insti- 
tutions and republicanism, the spirit of improvement and 
public enterprise is witnessed — the towns and cities 
grow, and thrift is everywhere manifest. The St. Gothard 
railway is destined to draw Italy and Germany closer 
together, and will exercise an important influence upon 
the politics and commerce, as well as religion, of those 
nations. Railway traffic between the German and 
Italian cities has heretofore been compelled to make a 
long detour to the east and go through the Tyrol over 
steep grades, or a still longer detour to the west by way 
of the Mt. Cenis Tunnel and France. Now it can go by 
a direct route under the Alps and through Switzerland. 

(92) 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 93 

After a few hours rest under the grateful trees on the 
banks of Lake Maggiore, we took ship for Arona, on the 
opposite side. This is the largest of the Italian lakes, 
being forty-five miles in length, and averaging three 
miles in breadth. Steamers run its whole length, touch- 
ing at many points on both sides. We go zigzagging 
over the lake. There is much to interest and charm the 
tourist on this lake. The water is almost crystal. Its 
many islands, especially the Borromean, are most invit- 
ing. There are four of these, on one of which, Isola 
Bella, was built the large palace by Count Yitaleo Bor- 
romeo, about a century ago, with terraced gardens, foun- 
tains, and grottoes, all very elaborate and artificial. 

Much of the surroundings of the lake is mountainous, 
though not abrupt, excepting at a few places. Villages, 
towns, and summer boarding-houses of elegant structure, 
abound numerously all along its shores. At one point 
on the lake I counted as many as twenty of these vil- 
lages. Being built of white stone and marble, it was not 
one of the least inviting prospects to see these villages 
interspersed along the mountain sides among the beauti- 
ful green foliage. The charm, however, of many an ex- 
quisite bit of Italian village scenery is dispelled as soon 
as one gets within smelling distance of it. There are 
places which you enter full of romantic enthusiasm, and 
escape from with a shudder ; instead of raising your 
hands in admiration, you employ them in holding your 
nose. 

The middle of Lake Maggiore marks the dividing line 
between Switzerland and Italy. The day being bright 
5* 



94 A NEW PATH 

and sunny, and the lake a perfect calm, our sail across 
was delightful. In the evening we witnessed the going 
down of the sun beyond the snowy peaks of the Alps 
in clouds glowing with splendor, painting the tips of 
the mountains in purple, scarlet and gold. Later in 
the evening we found a comfortable resting-place at the 
hotel De Italia E. Post, in Arona. Here, then, we 
had our first experience of Italy, and for one I have no 
complaints to lodge. It may be I was looking out for 
something to complain about, for I was told so many 
things about Italy in books I read, and by others, which 
savored of so much discomfort, that it would not be sur- 
prising if I had been filled with some fear. If so, my 
apprehensions were not realized. I had an excellent, 
clean bed, plenty to eat that did not swim in oil, polite 
attention, and very reasonable charges. But now for the 
first time I felt the need of more language. Well, no, 
not that exactly, for I could talk as much as ever ; but it 
did no good ; it lacked variety. My English and Ger- 
man wouldn't do. The best thing to do was to go it on 
faith, and as a rule I hit it pretty well. 

The railway ride from Arona to Milan was made in 
little more than an hour. The country abounds in or- 
chards and vineyards, and nearly all the way there is a 
magnificent view of the Alps. 

It was on a warm July noonday that I reached Milan, 
passing through the beautiful Marengo Gate, especially 
interesting on account of the battle once fought near by, 
which it is designed to commemorate. Milan is one of 
the largest and wealthiest cities of Italy, and indeed there 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 95 

are few cities in any country that can excel it in appear- 
ance and attractiveness. It has some magnificent thor- 
oughfares. It is a walled city, but the interior side of the 
wall is laid out with gardens and planted with trees, an' 
arrangement which surrounds the whole city with a park. 
It is now a great manufacturing place, with about a 
quarter of a million of inhabitants. Its streets are well- 
paved, and cleanliness is observable everywhere. Men 
go about all day with small hand-carts and brooms, care- 
fully sweeping and sprinkling to prevent dust. The 
people, generally, are fine-looking. They are quick 
in their movements, show good taste in their dress, 
and are extremely polite. They know how to drive 
a sharp bargain. They charge foreigners enormous 
prices for everything they purchase, if they are foolish 
enough to pay it. The ladies of Milan appear in simple 
but elegant attire, the only covering for their heads being 
light gossamer veils. The younger females are quite 
handsome, but. evidently lose their beauty at an early 
period, for you seldom see a handsome elderly lady in 
Italy. The children, with their large, dark and piercing 
eyes, are very fine-looking, and are full of brightness and 
vivacity. 

There are many stores in Milan of great elegance. 
The "Galleria Vittorio Emanuele," forms the central 
point for the traffic of the city. It is an immense arcade, 
roofed in with glass ; the roofing at the central point of 
the cross which it forms having an elevation of one hun- 
dred and eighty feet. The lower story is devoted to 
fancy and jewelry stores, of which there are fully one 



96 A NEW PATH 

hundred and fifty. In the evening the building is lighted 
with several thousand gas-jets, and adding to these the 
brilliant lights within the stores, presents a dazzling bril- 
liancy and scene of gayety. Its avenues are fifty feet 
wide, the flooring consisting of finely executed mosaics 
of different colors. This is the place of resort and prome- 
nade of the elite of the city, and is well worth a visit in 
the evening or afternoor.. 

I saw many fine paintings in Milan, among the finest 
were "The Nuptials of the Virgin," "Abraham and 
Hagar," and Rubens' "Last Supper." 

The great centre of attraction of Milan is its famous 
cathedral, being next to St. Peter's at Rome. It is im- 
possible to give the reader any adequate and intelligent 
description of this wonderful structure. It is a combina- 
tion of elegance and beauty, of splendor and wealth, of 
history and genius, which it is impossible to delineate. 
As a monument of ornamental architecture, it will prob- 
ably stand forever unrivaled. If the exterior amazes 
you, the elaborate interior, resting on fifty-two marble 
columns, charms you. Its foundations were laid five 
hundred years ago, and while its vast dimensions aston- 
ish you, you are lost in admiration of the exquisite per- 
fection of the Avork, requiring an expenditure of labor 
and money almost incalculable. It is largely Gothic in 
its architecture. From whatever point you look at its 
exterior v«^alls, you are gazed at in return by 'a throng of 
those "stone men and women," who Father Barrett pro- 
tests are the main production of Italy. It presents, be- 
sides, a perfect forest of marble pinnacles, with life-sized 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 97 

statues peeping out from every niche in the walls. There 
are thousands of such statues adorning the exterior, the 
precise number being doubtful, and changing constantly ; 
there is estimated to be as many as seven thousand, and 
there is room for many thousands more. 

The building is constructed entirely of pure white 
marble, which, in the sunlight, shines with dazzling 
splendor. It is built in the form of a Latin cross, the 
length being four hundred and ninety feet, breadth one 
hundred and eighty feet, height to top of the statue three 
hundred and fifty-four feet, the length of the transept 
two hundred and eighty-four feet, and height of the nave 
one hundred and fifty-two feet. The wonderful tracery 
in beautiful white marble which surrounds the roof, the 
central to>er and spire, surrounded by a throng of many 
smaller spires, each surmounted by a statue, present 
a combination of elegance impossible to describe. The 
prospect from the great spire — which I ascended — is 
wonderful. It commands the city and country about it, 
with the snowy Alps stretching through more than a 
semi-circle, and the Apennines filling half of the remain- 
ing horizon. 

But the interior of the cathedral is even more wonder- 
ful and imposing than the exterior. The marble columns 
which support the roof are ninety feet in height, eight 
feet in diameter, and fifty-two in number. Its double 
aisles and clustered pillars, its lofty arches, the lustre of 
its walls, its numberless niches filled with noble figures, 
its monuments, its chapels, and its matchless windows, 
combine to give a grandeur and solidity to its appear- 
ance much more effective than the exterior. 



98 A NEW PATH 

To get the full effect of this wonderful cathedral, one 
needs to go there at vespers, and standing under the 
loft J nave, amid that wilderness of white columns, watch 
the evening sunbeams streaming through the windows of 
stained glass, and listen to the pealing organ as the 
solemn notes steal out under the lofty arches, and die 
away in the distant shadows. 

On the morning of my departure from Milan I paid 
another visit to the cathedral, and spent a long time 
within its inviting walls, trying to be devotional as I wit- 
nessed large numbers of worshipers so devout in their 
service, and many receiving the early communion. With 
our benediction of peace upon them I departed with the 
silent prayer that they might eventually be saved, and 
we all be gathered into the greater and still more beautiful 
temple of our common Lord on high. 



CHAPTER XII. 

VENICE — THE CITY OF THE SEA — GONDOLAS AND GONDOLIERS — 
ITS CANALS AND BRIDGES — PRIESTS AND FEMALES— ST. 
mark's cathedral— its bronze HORSES — ST. MARK'S PLACE 
— DUCAL PALACE — BRIDGE OF SIGHS — THE PRISONS — RIALTO 
BRIDGE — THE CAMPANILE — PIGEON FEEDING — THE STREETS 
OF VENICE — ITS STORES — ITS BEGGARS — THE VENETIAN PEO- 
PLE — A SAIL ON THE ADRIATIC. 

IT was one of the last days in July, near sunset, ap 
proaching from Milan, that the city of Venice loomed 
up in the distance, looking to the eye like a city rising 
from the'sea, with towers, steeples, domes, and turrets 
of white marble gleaming in the sun. We had scarcely 
emerged from the cars when we were confronted by the 
strangest of all novelties thus far. Instead of getting 
into an omnibus and riding to our hotel, or walking, we 
are invited to take one of the many gondolas which liter- 
ally encircle the railway station. The gondola is the mode 
of conveyance. It supplies the place of coaches and car- 
riages and horses ; there are no such things as horses in 
Venice, excepting the bronze ones in front of St. Mark's, 
many of its inhabitants having never seen a horse. So, 
when you are in Venice, you must do as the Venetians 
do, get into the gondola as the mode of conveyance. And 
it is not as slow as you might think ; it cuts its way so 
rapidly through the water that in a short time you may 
go over a large part of the city. They are long narrow, 

(99) 



100 A NEW PATH 

light vessels or boats, containing in the centre a black 
cabin, something like the body of a hearse, nicely fitted 
up with glass windows, blinds, curtains, and cushioned 
seats for four persons. The gondolas are invariably 
painted black, inside and out, the trimmings being of the 
same color.* The wood-work is ornamented with carv- 
ings and tracery, and the boat is in all respects tidily 
kept. It is decidedly the most Venetian thing in Venice 
— the flower of this lotus of the sea. 

Byron very graphically describes it in the following 
lines : 

"Didst ever see a gondola? For fear 

You should not, I'll describe it you exactly : 

'Tis a long covered boat that's common here, 
Carved at the prow, built lightly, but compactly, 

Rowed by two rowers, each called gondolier ; 
]t glides along the water looking blackly, 

Just like a coffin clapped in a canoe, 

Where none can make out what you say or do. 

"And up and down the long canals they go. 

And under the Bialto shoot along, 
By night and day, all paces, swift or slow, 

And round the theatres, a sable throng, 
They wait in their dusk livery of woe ; 

But not to them do woful things belong, 
For sometimes they contain a deal of fun, 
Like mourning-coaches when the funeral's done." 

As many as four thousand gondolas are now daily in 
use in Venice. When the city was in its prime, with 

*A law of Venice prescribes this color, to prevent extravagance 
of decoration, as well as to secure uniformity of style. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. ^ 101 

twice its present population within the same area, the 
moving throngs upon its water-streets must have pre- 
sented a spectacle singularly striking — almost a fairy 
scene. One gondolier is generally considered sufficient 
to a boat, though there are often two. Their dress is 
somewhat after the sailor style. No watermen have ever 
equaled them in the dextrous management of a boat, or 
in the graceful use of the oar. To go about the city in 
this way costs less than the most ordinary hack-riding in 
another city, and besides, you are not punished by jolt- 
ing. It is smooth sailing and delightful. 

Venice is certainly an odd city, but also beautiful. 
Its streets are water canals, and its coaches gondolas and 
boats. If one is not careful, he is all the while under 
the impression that he is in a flooded city. At first you 
are timid, almost to fear, in venturing out doors, espe- 
cially after nightfall. Think of it, ^ca^m^ about from 
place to place, instead of riding or walking — your front 
door as well as your back door opening in the water, with- 
out a foot of earth to stand upon. If you want to go to 
see your neighbor, you must go by water. It is true, 
some parts of the city can be traversed without recourse 
to water ; but it would require a walk many times of half 
a mile and more to go to your neighbor's, five doors away. 
There are lanes or streets four and five feet wide, from 
house to house, paved with slabs of stone, over which 
one may pass ; but these foot-ways form the most incom- 
prehensible network imaginable — a perfect labyrinth from 
which the stranger will find it difficult to extricate him- 
self should he venture abroad without a guide. 



102 A NEW PATH 

Perhaps the first thought that strikes you is the singu- 
lar taste which induced a polished and educated people 
to select so damp a site for a city. The history of Ven- 
ice is briefly this: When the Roman Empire was de- 
stroyed about twelve hundred years ago by the barbar- 
ians, the inhabitants of northern Italy calling themselves 
Venetians, had their cities also destroyed by the same 
hordes. It was the inhabitants of these towns and cities 
who took refuge on a vast collection of small islands, sep- 
arated from the main land by a narrow arm of the sea 
(the Adriatic), and there founded a city, calling it 
Venice. They formed a republic, and elected their first 
Doge, or President, in the seventh century. From that 
time, down through all the centuries to the present, this 
city has had a most eventful history, but has singularly 
and fortunately passed through all her trials, and to-day 
Venice numbers one hundred and thirty thousand inhab- 
itants, and the people appear to be happy. Perfect re- 
ligious freedom is enjoyed under the reign of peace. 

Its earliest days were its best, its most beautiful. 
" The first period of nine hundred years presents the 
most interesting spectacle of a people struggling out of 
anarchy into order and power, and then governed for the 
most part by the wealthiest and noblest man they could 
find among them* — the best, the very best, un ottimo 
solo^^^ says the Venetian historian Sansovino. 

" We find a deep and constant tone of individual re- 
ligion characterizing the lives of the citizens of Venice in 

*Ruskin, " Stones of Venice." 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. , 103 

her greatness- — we find this spirit influencing them in all 
the familiar and immediate concerns of life, giving a 
peculiar dignity to the conduct even of their commercial 
transactions, and confessed by them with a simplicity of 
faith that may well put to &hame the hesitation with which 
a man of the world at present admits (even if it be so in 
reality) that religious feeling has any influence over the 
minor branches of his conduct." * 

So writes one of the most distinguished of modern 
authors respecting Venice ; and, toning down a little his 
deep-voiced eulogium, we feel constrained to admit the 
truth of it taken as a whole. But of its decay and de- 
cline — of what is commonly designated "its fall" there 
can be no denial. Its naval, its commercial, its colonial, 
its political, and as to productive power its artistic glory, 
are gone. " Ichabod" is written on its walls. The place 
is rich in monuments, in memorials, in remains — none 
richer, or so rich. They proclaim past magnificence ; 
but as to present achievements, present power, present 
prosperity, present nobleness, there is silence — silence 
like that which the stranger feels when he has reached 
the summit of the Campanile, which towers from its 
midst, and listens in vain for such sounds as arise from 
the streets of other cities. 

The islands on which the city of Venice is built are in 
number one hundred and fourteen ; the streams running 
between them, with the exception of the Grand Canal, 
being seldom more than fifteen feet in width. The 

*Ruskiii, "Stones of Venice." 



104 A NEW PATH 

Grand Canal, one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, 
which takes a serpentine course through the city, is in- 
tersected by nearly two hundred smaller canals, over 
which four hundred and fifty bridges are built. These 
are arched bridges of elegant structure, composed of 
white marble, and intended only for foot passengers. 
Out of these canals the houses all rise abruptly on both 
sides, their principal front and entrance always facing 
the canal, the water street visitors stepping from the 
gondola on to the door-sill. The depth of water is from 
three to ten feet. The number of fine private residences 
is quite large, mostly built on heavy piles of massive 
structure, and more remarkable for their gorgeous style 
than for comfort and convenience. The palaces, how- 
ever, occupied by the upper classes, are usually mag- 
nificent structures and gems of beauty and style, being 
built of the finest marble, and profusely decorated with 
statuary, paintings, and other works of art. Our hotel, 
the Victoria, was once such a palace. So you see, we 
lived in a palace once for four days. 

No wooden houses are seen in Venice. The prevailing 
color of all its houses is white, thus giving to the city a 
cheerful appearance. It is compactly built, about seven 
miles in circuit, and perfectly accessible in all its parts. 
Its principal buildings are of marble or of light-colored 
stone, and the remainder are of brick covered with 
mastic. Italy is so rich in marbles and other building 
stones that these materials were the cheapest which could 
be used. 

There is much in the city that has the appearance of 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. \ 105 

decay, and the sea is leaving its impress indelibly upon 
the walls of its buildings. With all this, it has been 
represented as a delightful place to reside in. At first , 
no doubt, the novelty gratifies and pleases, but it is too 
monotonous to be a favorite residence for any length of 
time. The knowledge that you are dependent upon 
boats to carry you about, and the want of rural beauty, 
make one weary of the scene. The saltness of the water 
and the changes of the tide make it more endurable than 
it otherwise would be. If the water were fresh, it would 
be uninhabitable. Artesian wells supply the city with 
water for domestic use. 

But besides the novelties of a flooded city, canals, 
gondolas, there are many other things in Venice which 
interest tKe foreigner — indeed, so many that one pressed 
for time makes selections with difficulty. Its numer- 
ous Romish churches, being one hundred, in the prin- 
cipal part of the city, are a wonder. There are six 
of these immense structures within five minutes' ride. 
The most of them were built three centuries ago. Those 
we visited were all highly ornamented and embellished 
with paintings, and statuary, and tombs, and monuments ; 
some of their altars rich with rare stones and sparkling 
gems. Expense appears to have been no consideration, 
and we find few churches at the present day in the con- 
struction of which there has been such lavish expendi- 
ture. 

The number of priests connected with these churches 
exceeds one thousand, being about one for every hun- 
dred inhabitants. Would it not be a charity to relieve 



106 A NEW PATH 

poor suffering Venice ? We cannot help but remark 
upon the great freedom with which the priests mingle 
with the female portion of the population in Italy. We 
found it so in all the churches we visited, as well as on 
the streets of the towns and cities. A thing so common 
there would strike us as very U7icommon, because w^e see 
so little of it in our country. 

Among the many interesting places in Venice stands 
first San Marco, the St. Mark's Cathedral. This is the 
great central attraction for many tourists. The form 
and style of this ancient church are taken from the 
church of the Mother of God, in Constantinople. The 
present structure was built in the tenth century, and 
is composed of marble and ivory. It is a building diffi- 
cult to describe, as it is built in a form peculiar to itself, 
and unlike any other existing church. In style it is at 
present Romanesque -Byzantine, in the form internally of 
a Greek cross with equal arms. A great dome rises in 
the centre, and four smaller ones crown the arms of the 
cruciform structure. In ground dimensions it is two 
hundred and fifteen feet front on the square, and two 
hundred and sixty-five feet deep. Five portals, of which 
the central is the largest, give admission to a portico or 
vestibule, which traverses the entire front of the church 
and a part of its two sides. The ceilings of these portals 
are vaulted, and covered with mosaics, representing 
Scriptural events. From the vestibule, which is exterior 
to the main walls, the interior is entered both in front 
and upon the sides. 

The first impression of the interior of St. Mark's is 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 107 

one of disappointment, and of baffled understanding. Its 
marble columns, of which it contains five hundred in its 
external and internal construction, and its marble pilas- 
ters and Avail facings are dingy and soiled with time. 
Its almost innumerable mosaics look "faded and gaudy 
with tarnished gilding;" and its floors, inlaid with marble 
and mosaics, are uneven and sunken, as well as broken 
in pieces. Besides this, it is badly lighted, shedding 
forth a "dim religious light," and giving its heavy archi- 
tecture a gloomy aspect. It requires a number of visits 
to overcome the impressions thus awakened; but famil- 
iarity with the interior is certain to work a change of im- 
pression, and in the end to arouse the most profound 
interest. "It w^ill gradually become possible to picture 
it as it appeared in the full lustre of its gilded mosaics 
and glistening marbles, and in the pristine splendor of its 
profuse decorations." 

Perhaps the nearest approach to a word-picture of the 
interior of this remarkable church is to be found in Rus- 
kin's Stones of Venice, Yol. 2 : "There opens before us 
a vast cave, hewn out into the form of a cross, and 
divided into shadowy aisles by many pillars. Kound the 
domes of its roof, the light enters only through narrow 
apertures like large stars; and here and there a ray or 
two from some far-away casement wanders into the dark- 
ness, and casts a narrow phosphoric stream upon the 
waves of marble that heave and fall in a thousand colors 
along the floor. What else there is of light is from 
torches, or silver lamps, burning ceaselessly in the re- 
cesses of the chapels ; the roof sheathed with gold, and 



108 A NEW PATH 

the polished walls covered with alabaster, give back at 
every curve and angle some feeble gleaming to the 
flames ; and the glories round the heads of the sculptured 
saints flash out upon us as we pass them, and sink again 
into the gloom. Under foot and over head, a continual 
succession of crowded imagery, one picture passing into 
another, as in a dream; forms beautiful and terrible 
mixed together ; dragons and serpents, and ravening 
beasts of prey, and graceful birds that in the midst of 
them drink from running fountains and feed from vases 
of crystal ; the passions and the pleasures of human life 
symbolized together, and the mystery of its redemption ; 
for the mazes of interwoven lines and changeful pictures 
lead always at last to the cross, lifted and carved in every 
place, and upon every stone ; sometimes with the serpent 
of eternity wrapt round it, sometimes with doves beneath 
its arms, and sweet herbage growing forth from its feet; 
but conspicuous most of all, on the great rood that crosses 
the church before the altar, raised in bright blazonry 
against the shadow of the apse." 

We attended services here on Sunday morning, but it 
was all in an unknown tongue to us. Great crowds 
of people were there, and the greatest confusion; but 
the monks vigorously kept up their part of the service, 
intoning and doing the most boisterous singing. There 
was no sermon. 

Over the central portion of St. Mark's stand the four 
elebrated bronze horses which once adorned the Arch 
of Nero at Rome. Constantino carried them from Rome 
to Constantinople, whence Marius Zeno brought them to 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. ^ 109 

Venice in 1205; they were taken to Paris by Napoleon 
in 1797, but restored to this cathedral in 1815. These 
horses are remarkably well modeled, as well as inter- 
esting remains of ancient art. They have an eventful 
history, and should remain Avhere they are. 

"Before St. Mark still glow her steeds of brass, 
Their gilded collars glistening in the sun." 

St. Mark's Place, at one end of which stands the church 
just described, is the great square of the city, and is the 
great centre of business, and the centre no less of pleasure 
and amusement, as well as the grandest and loveliest in 
Venetian architecture. In this place gather the great 
crowds in the evening to hear the fine music. Here are 
located all the fine stores, the larger number being jewelry 
stores. By gaslight this presents a most brilliant and 
attractive scene. Round the whole square in front of the 
church, there is also almost a continuous line of cafes, 
where the idle Venetians of the middle classes lounge, 
and read empty journals ; in its centre the Austrian 
bands play during the times of vespers, their martial 
music jarring with the organ notes — the march drowning 
the miserere^ and the sullen crowd thickening around 
them — a crowd which, if it had its will, would stiletto 
every soldier that pipes to it. And in the recesses of the 
porches, all day long, knots of men of the lowest classes, 
unemployed and listless, lie basking in the sun like lizards ; 
and unregarded children — every heavy glance of their 
eyes full of desperation and stony depravity, and their 
throats hoarse with cursing — gamble, and fight, and 
6 



no A NEW PATH 

snarl and sleep, hour after hour, clashing their bruised 
centesimi upon the marble ledges of the church porch. 
And the images of Christ and his angels look down upon 
it continually. 

The entire square is paved with smooth blocks of 
granite interspersed with iron pillars, bearing clusters 
of gas jets, while another line of illumination extends 
along the entire fronts. The buildings fronting the 
square are all of white marble, four stories high, and 
adorned with an abundance of statuary. The entire 
length of the square is five hundred and forty feet, and 
the width two hundred and sixty feet, whilst the Piaz- 
zetta leading past the Palace of the Doges and the old 
Library, which is really a portion of the square, is three 
hundred and eleven feet long by one hundred and forty- 
six in width, extending down to the water's edge at the 
mouth of the Grand Canal. 

But now let us go and see the Ducal Palace (Palazzo 
Ducale) or the Doge's Palace, as it is also called. This 
is the building in which the old Senate used to meet, and 
is well worth a visit. This was the great work of Venice, 
the principal effort of her imaginaton, employing her 
best architects in its masonry and her best artists in its 
decorations for a long series of years. The late Charles 
Dickens in his " Pictures from Italy," thus speaks of this 
famous palace : " Going down upon the margin of the 
green sea, rolling on before the door and filling all the 
streets, I came upon a place of such surpassing beauty 
and such grandeur that all the rest was poor and faded 
in comparison with its absorbing loveliness. It was a 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. ( 111 

great piazza, as I thought, anchored, like all the rest, in 
the deep ocean. On its broad bosom was a palace more 
majestic and magnificent in its old age than all the build- 
ings of the earth in the high prime of fullness of their 
youth. Cloisters and galleries, so light that they might 
have been the work of fairy hands, so strong that centur- 
ies had battered them in vain, wound round and round 
this palace, and infolded it with a cathedral gorgeous in 
the wild luxuriant fancies of the East." 

This building dates back to the fourteenth and fifteenth 
centuries. It contains many apartments of great splen- 
dor and elegance, reflecting the cultivated tastes and re- 
sources of the Venetian aristocracy. The hall of the 
Senate surpasses all apartments in the Palace, with per- 
haps one exception. It is one hundred feet long and 
forty-eight feet wide, with a ceiling about thirty-five feet 
high. Its walls and ceilings are also covered with fres- 
coes of the highest grade. In this chamber the Venetian 
Senate, consisting of three hundred members, held its 
sessions. The many suites of rooms throughout the Pal- 
ace, adorned with works of Titian, Tintoretto, Palma and 
Paul Veronese, are not easily to be forgotten. Here 
there is great wealth of finest art. The mind is bewildered 
by the unsparing profusion, fertility and brilliancy of 
imagination and skillful delineation displayed by these 
eminent artists of the Venetian school. The "Hall of 
the Grand Council," is said to be one of the finest rooms 
in Europe. In this chamber the entire body of the 
Venetian aristocracy were wont to assemble, but rather 
for social than governmental objects. The private apart- 
ments of the Doges are not exhibited. 



112 A NEW PATH 

This palace of palaces united in itself the two qualities 
of a parliament house and a ducal residence, which ex- 
plains at once its magnitude and its magnificence. As 
the capitol of the Venetian state, it expresses the munifi- 
cence and wealth of the aristocracy ; and as a ducal resi- 
dence, it indicates the elegant habits of the Doges, the 
chiefs of the aristocracy. 

The Ducal Palace is connected by the Bridge of Sighs 
with the prisons. This bridge has been immortalized by 
Lord Byron in the fourth canto of Ohilde Harold. A 
bridge crosses the canal or street just below, and another 
just above the Doge's Palace, from which a fine view of 
the Bridge of Sighs can be obtained — and it is true as 
Byron says: 

" I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs, 

A palace and a prison on each hand ; 
I saw from out the waves the structures rise 

As from the stroke of some enchanter's wand. 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand ^ 

Around me, and a dying glory smiles 
O'er the far times when many a suhject-land 

Looked to the winged islands' marble piles 

Where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred isles." 

Howells, in his "Venetian Life," speaks of it as "that 
pathetic swindle, the Bridge of Sighs." The bridge itself 
is no work of special merit. It is of marble, and arched, 
springing from the second story window of the criminal 
court over to the prison. It stands some thirty feet 
above the water. It is closed at the top and sides, the 
light entering through open sculptured work. The in- 
terior of the bridge is divided into two passage-ways, each 



ACROSS AN OLD EIELD. ^ 113 

with its own means of ingress and egress. This bridge 
was the means of communication between the criminal 
court and the criminal prison. Through these passage- 
ways criminals were conveyed to hear their sentence, and 
thence led to their execution ; and from this the bridge 
derives its melancholy but appropriate name. The sigh- 
ing company that crossed it must have been made up of 
"housebreakers, cut-purse knaves, and murderers." The 
name was given to it "by the people, from that opulence 
of compassion which enables the Italians to pity even 
rascality in difficulties." 

By special permission we passed through this famous 
bridge into the prisons — not, however, under sentence, 
nor as criminals. There are two tiers of dungeons, one 
above the otlTer, consisting of ten each, with a floor be- 
tween, constructed of heavy stone masonry. The apart- 
ments are for two kinds of offenders, political and criminal. 
This distinction is presented in the very architecture of 
the dungeons. Those for criminals were above, and 
those for political prisoners below. The dungeons are 
entered through a low arched opening. After passing 
through this opening with a torch to light the chamber, 
the visitor finds himself in a room inclosed by massive 
stone walls, twelve feet long, eight feet wide, and nine 
feet high, with an arched ceiling. The floors are of 
cement, hardened into stone, and bare of all furniture 
save a stone pillow set in the floor. Every dungeon re- 
peats this cool " inhuman mockery" of a pretended regard 
for the necessities of the prisoner. A common paving- 
stone, two feet long, fifteen inches wide, and rising about 



114 A NEW PATH 

four inches above the floor, was the pillow offered by the 
state, in the dark days of the Venetian aristocracy, to 
political as well as criminal offenders. "Two Doges, at 
least — Marino Falieri, in his eightieth year, and Antonio 
Foscari — were brought to the bitter experience both of 
the dungeons and of the stone pillow." It is doubtful 
whether these had dreams as pleasant and visions as 
celestial as the patriarch Jacob, who rested his weary 
head on a stony pillow in the days of his pilgrimage at 
Bethel. At the side of each door of these dungeons, 
there is a small round opening through the wall for the 
introduction of food. The darkness is substantially total. 
To be incarcerated in such a prison was at once a woe 
and a double sorrow. In a short hall, which is still 
pointed out, the prisoners were executed at midnight — 
the political by beheading, and the criminal by strangu- 
lation. These horrible dungeons are still used to pen 
in political prisoners. We experienced a pleasant sense 
of relief when again brought out of these dark and dismal 
caverns into the sunny light of day. 

Among the many other attractive and interesting sights 
in this novel city is the celebrated Rialto Bridge over 
the Grand Canal. This is a wonder in itself, consisting 
of a single arch one hundred and eighty-seven feet long, 
and forty-eight feet wide. It consists of marble. Its 
foundations rest upon twelve thousand piles. Com- 
menced in 1588, and finished in 1591, it was, for the 
period, a remarkable structure. It connects the eastern 
and newer part of the city with the island of Bialto, on 
the west side of the Grand Canal, the oldest part of the 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. ^ 115 

city. There seems to be a question whether Shakspeare, 
in the "Merchant of Venice," refers to the island or the 
bridge when he causes Shylock to say : 

''Signior Antonio, many a time and oft 
In the Rialto you have rated me 
About my moneys and my usances." 

Shakespeare, who was born in 1564, was twenty-seven 
years old when the bridge was completed, and doubtless 
its fame as a public work had reached him with his other 
information of this marvelous city. "The latter opinion, 
that the reference was to the island and not to the bridge, 
seems unfounded." 

On our return to our hotel we were interested in the 
Campanile, not the least conspicuous ornament of St. 
Mark's Square. It is three hundred and four feet high, 
forty -five feet square, and was erected in the twelfth cen- 
tury. Within it is an enclosed square tower, leaving a 
space between the outer and inner walls about five feet 
wide. We climbed this tower, and were amply rewarded 
for our toil by a magnificent view we had from its sum- 
mit of the city of Venice. The ascent is comparatively 
easy. It is made by inclined planes. It is a singularly 
convenient method of mounting to the summit of a tower, 
well understood by the ancient Romans. Napoleon, it is 
said, performed the feat, of riding his horse from the 
base to the summit. 

Feeding the pigeons is certainly a novelty as well as 
an interesting sight in Venice. This is done every after- 
noon at two o'clock, in the Square of St. Mark, at the 
public expense. They are the pets of the people, and to 



116 A NEW PATH 

injure one of them in any way would surely send the 
perpetrator to the guard-house. They have the freedom 
of the city, and the windows of the lofts of the public 
buildings are left open, and free access is given to them. 
The process of feeding is very interesting. At the 
moment the bronze man on the town-clock strikes the 
first blow announcing two o'clock, the pigeons flock in 
from all sides by thousands, and sweep up the square 
towards the window from which they are daily fed, and 
many hundreds of them even enter the room. They are 
very tame and literally swarmed over us, and partook of 
the food, which is corn, from our hands. 

As to the meaning of this care for the pigeons, there 
is no settled theory. It is said by some that on one 
occasion during the Venetian wars, whilst Admiral Dan- 
dolo was besieging Candia, at the commencement of the 
thirteenth century, a carrier-pigeon brought him impor- 
tant information from the islands. But the old chroni- 
clers differ as to the origin of feeding the pigeons, which 
has been a custom for centuries. One says that on 
Palm Sunday it was the custom to loose pigeons, many 
of which repaired for shelter to St. Mark's, and, multi- 
plying with time, they remained about the square as the 
best place for obtaining food. ^' The practice," however, 
" of maintaining pigeons at public expense is very gen- 
eral in Russia and Persia, as well as among the Arabs, 
and the custom might easily have been carried thither by 
Venetian merchants." Other authors assert that, al- 
though the city is credited with feeding the pigeons, they 
a"o in reality fed and cared for by the liberality of an 



ACKOSS AN OLD FIELD. 117 

old lady who left a large amount to be expended for this 
purpose. 

The streets of Venice are silent as compared with 
those of other cities. There is neither a horse nor a 
carriage, nor even a hand-cart, to be seen in any thor- 
oughfare. In this respect it is a noiseless city, and is 
free from the din and dust of other cities. Yet there are 
great throngs of people in the streets, which present ani- 
mated scenes like those of other cities. Business is 
carried on with dispatch and apparent ease. Small pack- 
ages are generally carried in baskets, and anything 
cumbrous is placed in the gondola, and conveyed from 
place to place. Though the city is free from din and 
rattle of vehicles, let no one suppose that it is free 
from all noises. The gondoliers, as they glide along on 
the watery streets, give out their cries with a zeal and 
earnestness that are at times quite startling. Among 
others are men carrying demijohns of water, with lime- 
juice, which they sell at two centimes, or less than half 
a cent, a glass. Others sell candied fruits, and various 
articles not usually found in stores. Then come along 
the flower girls, offering the most beautiful flowers for 
sale. These girls are mostly perfect beauties them- 
selves, rivaling the article they ofl'er in no small degree. 
The cries of these street venders are of course in Italian, 
a language peculiarly fitted for shrill but smoothly flow- 
ing notes. From early in the morning until late at night 
you hear these shrill street cries, to your annoyance. 

Venice has many and beautiful stores. These are 
mostly found on the extensive Piazza of St. Mark, 
6 



118 A NEW PATH 

Jewelry of all kinds can be purchased at very reasonable 
rates. The shop-keepers are determined to sell, and 
they seldom allow a purchaser to leave their establish- 
ment without selling him something. You are almost 
overwhelmed with attention and politeness. To enter 
any of these stores without removing your hat would be 
regarded not only impolite, but really an offence. A 
shop-keeper, whether male or female, w^ould not pretend 
to return you change with the bare hand, but placing it 
in an ornamented small silver waiter, gently pours it into 
your hand. As to the honesty and fair dealing of 
these people, we could not find fault, but must commend 
them. We purchased some views of Yenice, and not 
Avishing to carry them with us, requested the dealer to 
mail them to our address. We paid for the pictures, 
left our address, and on our return home found our 
goods awaiting us. 

Perhaps in no city is the tourist more constantly be- 
sieged by beggars than in Yenice. There are many 
idlers everywhere on the streets, and at a glance they 
know the foreigner. All sorts of tricks are resorted to, 
to extract a centime from your pocket. Boys turn sum- 
mersaults in front of you and give you to understand 
that they have earned something, and that you ought to 
pay them. Others give you an exhibition of diving in 
the watery streets, and having emerged from the deeps, 
quickly stand before you, expecting their reward. As 
you approach in a gondola one of the public buildings 
you wish to view, you see approaching a man with a 
long pole in hand, at the end of which is a crook, 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 119 

which he is sure to fasten on your boat, and pro- 
fesses to be very helpful in giving you a safe landing. 
You are scarcely, out of the gondola, Avhen off goes the 
hat of your benefactor, and you can not move until the 
beggar is moved, Avhich a centime will do quickly. As 
you are about to enter the building, be it a church or 
any other edifice, your ears are well nigh deafened by 
the rattling of tin boxes in the hands of a flock of beg- 
gars at the door. Having satisfied all these outside, you 
begin to think you shall enjoy quiet within. But not so ; 
for the inside is besieged in the same manner, and even 
the different apartments in the building. The only way 
to conquer this army of beggars is to give them some- 
thing, be it ever so little, or let them mutter their story 
and rattle their boxes until they weary, and pay no 
attention to them. 

Many of the Venetians are fine-looking people, bright 
and entertaining. The ladies are fond of fine dress, and 
are mostly beautiful and handsome. The difference, 
however, in Italy, as well as in all European countries, 
between what are called the common class and better 
class of people, is very much greater than in our own 
country. This is apparent to the most casual observer. 
The same is true in the mode of living. 

Before leaving the city we took another long and ex- 
tended sail on the gondola, going out into the Adriatic, 
perhaps not exactly where St. Paul sailed, but still on 
the same sea, and must say that it was with some reluc- 
tance that we bade adieu to the Queen of the Adriatic. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

OVEK THE APENNINES — THE CITY OF FLORENCE — PITTl PAL- 
ACE — SAVONAROLA — PALACE" VECCHTO — UFFIZI GALLERY- 
CHURCH OF SANTA CROCE — MICHAEL ANGELO'S HOUSE — A 
FUNERAL SCENE. 

THE day we left Venice for Florence was intensely hot, 
and to be boxed up in a small, cushioned compart- 
ment of close, dusty cars, with nothing to eat and no 
water to drink, was an impressive realization of the dif- 
ference betAveen home and foreign car riding. The cars 
in Italy are inferior to those in many other parts of 
Europe. The first half of the one hundred and eighty 
miles of our journey was most disagreeable, for the 
way was dusty, the weather swelteringly hot, and the 
scenery not particularly attractive. Everything looked 
parched, with scarcely anything green. After passing 
beyond Bologna, the Roman Bononca, a walled city of 
one hundred thousand inhabitants, and approaching the 
Apennines from the plains of Lombardy to the valley 
of the Arno, the scenery of the country became much 
more inviting, and the weather cooler. The railway 
crosses the Apennines from the valley of the Arno, and is 
a grand piece of engineering. There are as many as 
forty-two tunnels, varying in length from one hundred 
yards to two miles. They are constructed in enduring 
masonry, and the equipments of the road are of a very 

(120) 



ACROSS. AN OLD FIELD. 121 

superior character. With all this, one is utterly sur- 
prised that the internal arrangements of the cars are so 
bereft, not only of comforts, but necessities. 

There are many beautiful views of the wild scenery 
of the Apennines, and further on, of the fertile plains 
of Tuscany, the garden of Italy. Here we passed over 
historic ground, every foot of which has been trodden by 
Roman legions, a thousand and more years ago. 

At ten o'clock in the evening we passed through the 
city gates into Florence, whose streets were thronged 
with people and brilliant with gaslight. Florence has 
been awarded the title of "the fairest city of the earth." 
It certainly is a delightful city, of two hundred thousand 
people, situated ^in the rich valley of the Arno, sur- 
rounded by beauties of nature and art, immortalized by 
Byron and Rogers, and revered as the birth-place of 
Dante, Petrarch, Galileo, Michael Angelo, and many 
other celebrities. How the recollections of the past 
come trooping up in the appreciative mind, while tarrying 
in a place which has given birth to such noble contribu- 
tors to poetry and the arts ! Beautiful gardens adorned 
with statues, vases, fountains, and other decorations, as 
well as the open squares or piazzas, continually attract 
the eye of the visitor ; and the palaces, which are very 
numerous, each containing rare paintings and sculptures, 
form the principal objects of interest in this delightful 
city, which is the pride of Italy. Like all European 
cities, Florence is solidly built. There are no wooden 
houses. The people seem to live all sorts of ways, and 
much out doors, The streets are mostly broad, and all 



122 A NEW PATH 

smoothly paved with large square-cut stones half a foot 
thick, grooved with the chisel. It can never be muddy 
here, for the streets are kept so perfectly clean that even 
so good a housekeeper as the dear Mrs. Partington, with 
her finest broom, could not gather a shovelful of dirt from 
any square in the city. The people of Florence are evi- 
dently industrious, and impress the stranger most favor- 
ably. The persons to be dreaded are the beggars. 
These meet you at every turn on the street, at every 
church door you visit, within and without ; they follow 
you and run after you if you happen to be riding in a 
carriage. 

In Italy at least, Romanism makes beggary respectable. 
The most honored religious orders are the mendicant 
orders. A noble joins the order of the Jesuits. His 
superior places him, hat in hand, at the door of his church, 
to beg tor his new brethren from his old associates. The 
Pope himself is supported by Peter-pence contributed by 
the faithful. We do not know whether the Apostle's 
precept, "If any would not work, neither should he eat," 
is in the Douay version or not, but the principle certainly 
has no place in the religion of the Romans. Under a 
system in which mendicancy receives religious venera- 
tion, beggary is not shameful, nor the beggar an outcast. 

The stores and cafes are brilliant and most attractive 
by gas-light, and are visited by great multitudes. Such 
shining scenes would never be seen in any American city 
except on the eve of some national holiday. The cafes 
are all immense establishments, some of them old palaces, 
and they are thronged to the curb-stones with parties 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 123 

eating and drinking. So are also some of the broad 
avenues, where as many as a thousand persons sit down 
at the marble tables and sip beer and wine, and this in 
the most orderly manner, there being no drunkenness nor 
rowdyism. The people at least enjoy themselves, and 
show a great deal of sociability. The climate of Flor- 
ence is delightful, varying but thirty degrees from sum- 
mer to winter, and the city is frequented by many people 
from the cold and severe winter climates of Europe. 
Not a few Americans have taken up their permanent 
abode here. 

The first place of special interest we visited was the 
Pitti Palace, at one time the residence of King Victor 
Emanuel, but its c^ief attraction now is the collection 
of paintings. Here are some of the finest paintings in 
Europe, and it is simply bewildering to walk amid the 
wealth of such art as is here displayed. Besides the 
matchless paintings, which the masters have here left for 
the world to admire, there are beautiful sculptures, vases 
and mosaics, of untold value. We were especially at- 
tracted by a Mosaic table, about seven feet long by four 
feet wide, which cost over two hundred thousand dollars, 
and fifteen years were occupied in completing it at the 
government manufactory. In the great business square 
of the city the place is still pointed out where Savonarola, 
the Italian reformer, was burned at the stake in 1408. 
The spot is marked by a magnificent fountain, surmounted 
with a bronze statue of Neptune. This good man was 
here put to death when Luther was but seven years old, 
and twenty-seven years before the famous theses were 



124 A NEW PATH 

nailed on the church-door of Wittenberg, proclaiming the 
coming liberator of Northern Europe. This Christian 
hero was committed to the flames for denouncing the 
usurpations and detesting the wickedness of the church 
of Rome, and because he thought Christ better than the 
Pope, and love than a scarlet hat, and purity than an in- 
dulgence. The night before he suffered, he laid his head 
in the lap of his deeply-affected guard, and slept the calm 
sleep of one whose conscience was at rest, and was ready 
to be offered, knowing that the crown and palm of mar- 
tyrdom were now laid up for him in heaven. With two 
comrades, one of whom had given the rash and fatal 
challenge, he Avas led to the scaffold, barefooted and bare- 
headed, clad only in a woolen shirt. As he passed along 
a temporary gangway, cruel boys were allowed to amuse 
themselves by pricking his feet with pins. But weeping 
and dim eyes were in the concourse, and in many a closed 
and melancholy house, that day. They clothed Savonarola 
in priestly robes, which a bishop immediately tore off, at 
the same time pronouncing the words of doom: "I sepa- 
rate thee from the church militant and from the church 
triumphant." The martyr's face, sombre hitherto and 
overcast, brightened with an excellent glory while he 
made answer: "Not from the church triumphant — that is 
beyond thy power." Who spoke to him those lofty words 
but He who is with His people always, and who said, 
"Fear not them who can kill the body, and after that 
have no more that they can do?" Serene, dauntless, 
humble and forgiving as becomes a pardoned Christian, 
with nothing abject and nothing boastful in his bearing, 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 125 

/ 

he saw his comrades strangled and burned; and then 
committed his body into the hands of the executioner, 
and his soul into, the keeping of Christ. So they 
quenched the light of Italy, and flung his ashes into the 
Arno, and that impetuous river swept them to the sea. 
It was the last small insult which hate and fear could 
inflict in their hour of triumph. Yet what fitter tomb for 
the orator of many moods, threats, entreaties, defiances, 
hopes and fears, than the many-sounding, many-changing 
sea — for the freeman whose life was battle against the 
tyrants of the soul, than those free waves, whose children 
are the champions of liberty for the body and liberty for 
the soul. 

We read that as he stood ready to be ofiered, the mar- 
tyr fixed one long, strange glance upon the fierce democ- 
racy that he had formerly wielded at his will. We may 
picture the sadness and majesty of that look, but his 
thoughts we cannot follow. Yet if he had, as he 
dreamed, the gift of prophecy, then would his visions 
have been like these : " I see the people soon, under the 
scourge of pestilence, remembering and bewailing me, 
and driving out my enemies. I see the hateful tyrant 
whose snares entangled and whose minions doomed me, 
taken at last in a pit of his own digging, with murderous 
greed coiled like a serpent round his heart ; and it is bet- 
ter to die a martyr for Christ than the victim of deeds 
like his. I see a mightier testimony, a more vital energy, 
a deeper and farther-reaching truth than my teaching 
expressed, shaking realms I never trod, and building into 
mighty empires races whose very names are strange. 



126 A NEW PATH 

"And gazing down the centuries, what is this which 
dimlj looms to view ? Florence, the fair and stately — 
Florence, in which I labored, and for which I die — rein- 
forced by the patriotism of all Italy, and dear to the 
enlightenment of all the world, no longer the lonely and 
turbulent city that I knew ; but now the august capital 
of a great, united and free empire; confronting, with 
often baffled but always inexorable purpose, a Rome how 
darkly changed! Emblems they of the new time and 
the old, liberty and bondage, life and death ; Rome, 
through all changes, reeling to an inevitable fall — Flor- 
ence, in fair weather and foul, erect in the energy and 
buoyant in the hopefulness of youth renewed." 

Facing this great square, in which Savonarola was 
burned, stands the Palace VeccJiio, the old capitol of the 
republic. It was begun in 1298, and is a striking example 
of the Florentine castles of the middle ages. 

We spent many hours in the famous Uffizi Gallery/, 
founded by the Medici, the paintings in which are reputed 
to be the richest and most varied in the world. The hall 
known as the Tribune is the inner sanctuary of this tem- 
ple of art (the richest room in all the world, a heart that 
draws all hearts to it, as Hawthorne says), and contains 
the Dancing Faun, the AppoUino, the Wrestlers, and 
other marvels of ancient sculpture ; w4iile in painting, 
Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Correggio, and other 
great masters, are represented by some of their best 
works. 

Time and space forbid to speak of more than a few of 
the many churches of Florence. The Cathedral (the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 127 

Duomo) holds the first place. Its dome from the paved 
floor is the highest in the world. The exterior of the 
building is coated with white marble, and is five hundred 
feet long. The interior is grand and impressive, and 
contains many fine monuments. 

The church of Santa Croce is the Pantheon of Tus- 
cany, and contains the tomb of Michael Angelo, who is 
buried here. It also contains the monuments of Dante 
and Galileo. On the tomb of the latter we read the fol- 
lowing inscription in Latin : " The great restorer of geom- 
etry, astronomy, and philosophy ; none of his age is to 
be compared to him; here may he sleep well." 

Of course we would not miss Michael Angelo's house. 
This contains a collocation of pictures and rare antiquities, 
and is kept as a perpetual exhibition. We rested a little 
while in the distinguished man's private room, and occu- 
pied his chair at a small table. Here on the wall are 
exhibited his sword and two walking-sticks. This is the 
man who being asked why he did not marry, answered, 
"Painting is my wife, and my works are my children." 

The second evening we spent in Florence we witnessed 
two very strange funeral scenes. The procession, bearers 
and all, did not number over a dozen people, all males. 
They all wore black frocks, broad-brimmed hats, masked 
faces, leaving only two openings for the eyes ; each one 
carrying a flaming torch, and presenting a most ghostly 
appearance. The hand-barrow was covered with a black 
canopy, beneath which rested the corpse. The proces- 
sion walked with a rush, but the people raised their hats 
as it passed by. We learned that there is a religious 



128 , A NEW PATH 

order in Florence which took its rise during the preva- 
lence of the cholera some years ago. It undertook to 
superintend the funeral rites and burial of all persons 
who had neither friends nor money and died in the city. 
These societies are composed of the order of friars, whose 
pious work includes also the nursing and attending of the 
sick poor — a merciful provision. 

We met a great many Americans in Florence, and the 
ceremony of introduction was anything but formal. We 
all seemed to know each other, and at once became quite 
sociable. Seeing the Stars and Stripes floating from the 
staff of the American Consul's house was beautiful, as 
well as inspiring. Before leaving the city, we took a 
carriage and rode out to Basoa, situated on the high 
range of hills, where we had a magnificent view of the 
whole city, the Ai\io and valley, and were treated to a 
glorious sunset. Would that we could go again to Flor- 
ence, the fairest of cities ! 



CHAPTER XIV. 

KOME — THE PALACE OF THE C^SARS — ARCH OF TITUS — THE 
COLISEUM — THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. PAUL. 

AT last we find ourselves in the Imperial City, the 
centre of history, glory and shame. We left Flor- 
ence at 10 p. m., and, therefore, can not speak from per- 
sonal observation in regard to the country through which 
we passed for two hundred and thirty miles. As the 
morning dawned we approached the Holy City ; and as 
her towers and domes loomed up in the distance and her 
ancient walls came in sight, we were thoroughly aroused 
from our slumbers and were not a little stirred in mind 
and heart. While we did not, like Luther, on his visit 
to Rome, fall on our knees, exclaiming, " Holy Rome, I 
salute thee !" yet we could adopt the language of 
another, 

' ' A thousand busy thoughts 
Rushed on my mmd a thousand images." 

And as we passed within the walls I could scarcely 
realize that we were entering 

" The city that so long 
Reigned absolute, the mistress of the world." 

As in subsequent days we wandered amid her tombs 
and fragments of temples, broken columns and crumbling 
monuments, attesting the grandeur of the Imperial City, 
I would sometimes say, 

6* ( 129 ) 



130 A NEW PATH 

' ' And am I here ? 
Ah ! little thought I, when in school I sat, 
A school-boy on his bench at early dawn 
Glowing with Roman story, I should live 
To tread the Appian, once an avenue 
Of monuments most glorious, palaces, 
Their doors sealed up and silent as the night, 
The dwellings of the illustrious dead — to turn 
Toward Tiber, and beyond the city gate. 
Pour out my unpretending verse, 
Where, on his mule, I might have met so oft 
Horace himself/' 

It would be unsatisfactory to attempt to give in a few 
chapters the many events in the history of Rome ; yet it 
might be proper to say that the founding of Rome is at- 
tributed to Romulus, 753 years B. C. (before Christ.) 
Rome is famous both in ancient and modern history, for- 
merly for being the most powerful nation of antiquity, 
and afterwards the ecclesiastical capital of Christendom 
and the residence of the Pope. The ancient portion of 
the city, under the emperors, was much more extensive 
than the modern. Nearly all the seven hills upon which 
ancient Rome is said to have been built are merely emi- 
nences, being of but slight ascent, with the exception of 
the Capitoline and Palatine Hills. The situation of the 
city is generally low, and is divided into two very unequal 
portions by the river Tiber. Ten of its sixteen gates 
have been walled up. 

There are many signs of improvement in the city. In 
the neighborhood of the railroad depot, which is one of 
the most magnificent in Europe, there are many fine new 
streets of elegant buildings, both public and private, of 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 131 

/ 

which our hotel, The Continental^ is one. In the cen- 
tral part of the cit}" we found entire rows of superior 
new residences going up on every side, old palaces being 
renovated and almost reconstructed, and new ones being 
built. The streets of Rome are kept clean. Whilst 
many of them are narrow, yet others, especially in the 
new part, are wide. Every paving-stone in the city is 
carefully swept during the night, and the dust carted oiF 
before breakfast. The streets are also watered, and in 
the early morning it would be difficult to find any city, 
except Paris, cleaner than the Rome of the present day. 
This all grows out of the fact that Rome is the capital of 
Italy, and that the Pope has lost his temporal power. 
There is no mistaking the fact that all Rome, except the 
Pope and cardinals, and the priesthood, is happy and 
hopeful. It does one good, especially an American, to 
see the Italian flag flying from the castle of St. Angelo, 
which was for so many years the prison-house of all lib- 
eral Italians who had the courage to entertain and ex- 
press sentiments favorable to human liberty. 

We were surprised to find such good water in Rome in 
the month of August, and plenty of excellent ice, for 
which there were no extra charges. As to hotel accom- 
modations and attendance, and their table d'hote^ both in 
quality and character of cooking, we found them to be 
better than in London. 

We had some hesitancy in going to Rome in August, 
fearing sickness. We found the weather very hot, es- 
pecially in the middle part of the day ; but the nights 
were delightfully cool, and after learning the true state 



132 A NEW PATH 

of things, we felt as safe as in any other city in regard to 
sickness. We avoided being outdoors much after night- 
fall. 

To see Rome to advantage, guides are necessary. 
These can be had at reasonable prices, and by a little 
care reliable persons may be secured. It is not possible 
to give in detail, in a few chapters, what one sees iii 
Rome in a single week. I shall, therefore, select some 
of the most interesting portions Avhich came under our ob- 
servation, hoping that all my readers may some day go 
to Rome and see for themselves. 

The first place we visited was the Palace of the 
Coisars, on the Palatine Hill. The entrance is through 
an immense archway, and from the Forum opposite the 
Basilica of Constantine. Nothing now remains of these 
extensive buildings but a mass of ruins ; these, however, 
still show many signs of former magnificence, such as the 
beautiful floors of mosaic, parts of the throne of the 
Csesars, and the fine porphyry and serpentine stone. 
Judging from the immense bath-rooms, the old emperors 
must have been great sticklers for cleanliness. We no- 
ticed also such modern conveniences as lead and steam 
pipes in the walls of the Palace. The arches, crushed 
columns, chocked-up vaults, heaped hillocks, cypress and 
ivy-grown walls, crumbled temples, all matted and massed 
together, mark the Imperial Mount. 'Tis thus the mighty 
fall. In our stroll through these ruins, our guide was 
careful to point out the precise spot, close down by the 
Tiber, under a clump of small trees, where the mythical 
Romulus and Remus were suckled by the she-wolf, and 
subsequently proceeded to build the walls of Rome. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 133 

Leaving the Palace of the Caesars, we pass under the 
Arch of Titus, which is close by, and was erected in honor 
of that distinguished general on his return to Rome after 
his conquest of Jerusalem (A. D. TO). It is an arch of 
much magnificence, and well preserved. The Jews never 
pass under it, always going around it. 

We dare not detain the reader by giving an account of 
the many other ruins we visited the first day, such as the 
Temples of Vesta, Venus, Roma, Juno, Hope, Piety, and 
the Column of Trajan, the latter being regarded a perfect 
triumph of art. 

We now go to the Coliseum^ begun by Vespasian in 
A. D. 72. This is the most familiar of all the ancient 
Roman monuments, and is by far the largest amphitheatre 
in the world, as well as the most august ruin. It covers 
five acres of ground, is nearly one-third of a mile in cir- 
cumference, and was capable of containing eighty-seven 
thousand persons. On the occasion of its dedication by 
Titus, five thousand wild beasts were slain in the arena, 
the games lasting for nearly one hundred days. Of 
course it has been much damaged by the influence of 
time, yet parts of it are in a good state of preservation. 
The dens are still distinct where the wild beasts were 
kept, and the passage-ways open through which they were 
conducted into the arena to kill a,nd devour the Christians. 
Close to the outer walls stands a small circular ruin, to 
which, by an underground passage-way the gladiators re- 
tired to wash off their bloody bodies. The only dome of 
the Coliseum is the sky ; and the spectacle, when the seats, 
rising in circular rows one above another for four stories, 
7 



134 A NEW PATH 

were filled with people, must have been an imposing 
sight beyond description. As you stand in the vast 
arena, and look upon these ruined seats, and remember 
that where you stand, stood and fought and died gladia- 
tors, "butchered to make a Roman holiday," the imagi- 
nation is overwhelmed at the strange and mighty past that 
rises before you. From the vast concourse Roman ap- 
plause was thundered down to the spot your feet press, 
as the blood spurted from the poor wretch's heart. 

To see this ruin crumbling away ; its walls and arches 
overgrown with green ; its corridors open to the day ; the 
long grass growing in its porches, young trees springing 
up on its ragged parapets ; to see the peaceful cross 
planted in the centre of its pit of fight ; to climb into its 
upper halls, and look down on ruin, ruin, ruin, all about 
it ; the triumphal arches of Constantino, Septimius Sev- 
erus, and Titus ; the Roman Forum, the Palace of the 
Caesars, where long since the barbarian has stabled his 
steed ; the temples of the old religion fallen down and 
gone ; to see all this, is to see the ghost of old Rome, 
the wicked, wonderful old city, haunting the very ground 
on which its people trod. It is the most impressive, the 
most stately, the most solemn, mournful sight conceivable. 
The Christian can never view this, the most imposing 
ruin in the world, without a heavy feeling in his heart 
for the good, the beautiful and the holy, who here offered 
up their lives a willing sacrifice for the faith they bore. 

We now pass out of the city through the Ostian gate, 
and on our way drive past the small chapel which tradi- 
tion says marks the spot where St. Paul and St. Peter 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 135 

met and embraced each other before their martyrdom. 
The scene is sculptured in marble above the door of the 
chapel. 

And now we are a mile and a quarter outside the city 
walls, in the magnificent cathedral of St. Paul. Nothing 
can exceed the richness of this whole edifice. Its altars 
and pillars exceed those of St. Peter. It abounds in 
alabaster, malachite, black and yellow marble, green ba- 
salt and porphj^ry. Its floor shines like a mirror, while 
its ceilings are white and gilt stucco, and its walls are 
filled with matchless paintings and likenesses in mosaic of 
some two hundred saints. The elBfect of the four ranges 
of granite columns, eighty in number, of the Corinthian 
order, is unparalleled. The high altar stands under a 
splendid canopy, supported by four columns of white ala- 
baster. Under this altar is the tomb, which the tradi- 
tion of the Roman church points out as the burial place 
of St. Paul, whose body, on the same authority, is in- 
closed in an urn, on which is engraved the name of the 
apostle. Like the tomb of St. Peter in St. Peter's ca- 
thedral, one hundred lamps are kept burning around it 
night and day. One of the priests took us into the 
sacristy, where he exhibited the chain which it is said 
tied the hands of St. Paul when he was executed. The 
chain is kept in a beautiful cushioned case, and is re- 
garded so sacred that the priest would not touch it with 
his hands, but with a silk cloth. " Help our unbelief." 

Near this church the spot is still pointed out where St. 
Paul sufiered martyrdom. 

On our return to our hotel we passed the house of 



136 A NEW PATH 

Pilate, the Temple of Janus, the theatre of Marcellus 
(founded bj Julius Caesar, 30 B. C); through the Jew 
quarter, parts of which beggar description ; thence by the 
Palace of King Humbert, near by which we saw some of 
the original Roman walls. 



CHAPTER XY. 

MORE ABOUT ROME — ST. PETER's — REMAINS OF POPE PIUS IX. — 
THE pope's unpopularity — THE TICKET AGENT — THE VATI- 
CAN — THE APPIAN WAY — IN THE CATACOMBS. 







F the three hundred churches in Rome, besides its 
numerous cathedrals, we had time to see but few ; 
but among this number, of course St. Peter's came in for 
a good share. In order to gain a true conception of this, 
the great pride and glory of modern Rome, a mere pen 
picture is entirely inadequate. Many minute descrip- 
tions have been given of this magnificent structure, but 
its dimensions and splendor very far exceed the most 
elaborate that can be written. It is as the poet has 
said: 

' ' But thou, of temples old or altars new, 
Standest alone — with nothing like to thee. 

What could be 
Of earthly" structure in His honor piled 
Of sublimest aspect ? Majesty, 
Power, Glory, Strength, and Beauty, all are aisled 
In this eternal ark of worship." 

St. Peter's stands on the site of the Circus of Nero, 
where many Christians suffered martyrdom, and where 
St. Peter is said to have been buried after his crucifixion. 
An oratory was founded here as early as A. D. 90 ; 
and in A. D. 306 a basilica was begun by Constan- 
(137) 



138 A NEW PATH 

tine the Great. The present edifice was commenced by 
Julius II. in 1506. The expense of the work was so 
heavy — that of the main building being estimated at fifty 
millions — that Julius II. and Leo. X. resorted to the sale 
of indulgences to raise money, and this led to the Refor- 
mation. And here let me say by way of parenthesis 
that, as I wandered in the midst of popedom, even in its 
faded glory and enfeebled strength, I thought what faith 
and courage the brave Luther must have had, to stand 
out against Rome when in her pristine glory and power, 
and rebuke her iniquities ! ""- 

The front of St. Peter's is four hundred feet long, and 
one hundred and forty-eight feet high. It is six hundred 
feet in depth. The height of the dome is four hundred 
and eighty feet. There are five doors in the front open- 
ing into the vestibule ^ which is itself much longer and 
wider than a large church. The diameter of the dome is 
one hundred and fifty feet. On the roof of the cathedral 
is built quite a village of small houses, occupied by cus- 
todians and workmen. 

To describe minutely the interior of this structure 
would in itself make a good-sized volume. It is a familiar 
fact that it does not at first sight seem so vast as it really 
is. The statues and ornaments, which one naturally takes 
as standards of measurement, are themselves of unusual 
proportions — " the angels in the baptistry are enormous 
giants : the doves colossal birds of prey." It is only by 
observing the living, moving figures, which look like large 
insects creeping over the marble floor and are almost lost 
ill the vastness of the encircling space, that one begins to 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 139 

get an idea of the immensity and grandeur of the edifice. 
Bjron refers to this in his description of the church in 
Childe Harold— 

"Enter : its grandeur overwhelms thee not; 
And why ? It is not lessened: but thy mind, 
Experienced by the genius of the spot, 
Has grown colossal, and can only find 
A fit abode wherein appear enshrined 
Thy hopes of immortality. ' ' 

Gradaallj it expands until it fills the full measure of 
your anticipations, and far exceeds them. Its walls, 
railings, columns, corridors, arches, piers, and numberless 
altars, glitter with gold. The tombs and monuments of 
nearly all the popes, and of many kings, are here. As 
you approach the bronze canopy and gaze up into the 
solemn dome of mosaics circling away four hundred feet 
into the heavens, you exclaim, " It is enough." The high 
altar, directly under the dome and over the tomb of St. 
Peter, is too magnificent for us to attempt a description. 
This alone is estimated to have cost nine millions of dol- 
lars. Service goes on perpetually, both night and day. 
The moment it ceases in one part it immediately begins 
in another. Hundreds of people are constantly kneeling 
at the many altars while mass is in progress. Near the 
high altar, seated on a magnificent high chair of fine mar- 
ble, is St. Peter in silver and bronze. Hither all good 
papists resort daily in great numbers, even to small chil- 
dren, to kiss the saint's toe. To such an extent is this 
kissing done, that three-fourths of the saint's big toe has 
been kissed away. In the side wall of the edifice was 



140 A NEW PATH 

pointed out to us the place whence the remains of Pope 
Pius IX. had recently been taken, and interred outside 
the city walls for their final resting-place. As his remains 
were conveyed through the streets of Rome, large crowds 
of Italians followed, mocking and shouting words of de- 
rision, demanding that his body be thrown into the Tiber. 
This sacrilege greatly grieved the present Pope, and to 
show his grief he issued a most mournful proclamation, 
and totally secluded himself from the outside world for the 
space of three months. So it happened that we did not 
see the Pope ; but neither did he see us. A liberal gov- 
ernment has made the Pope very unhappy, and his resi- 
dence uncertain. The ardent love which the Roman peo- 
ple once had for the head of their church has so far 
abated that even the silver coin bearing his image is ut- 
terly worthless, and will buy nothing. The moment they 
see it they cry, ^^ JVon papa T^ Straws tell which 
way the wind blows. The Roman is very quick in de- 
tecting the foreigner, and in one instance at least, was nob 
too scrupulous to attempt an advantage over us. We had 
purchased a ticket for Naples, and among the change 
the ticket agent returned to us was a piece of Roman sil- 
ver worth about forty cents in American money. This 
coin bore the image of Pope Pius IX. We at once recog- 
nized the imposition, and immediately returned to the 
agent's office, saying, '^ Non papaP^ He paid no atten- 
tion to us at first, but we then more nearly imitated the 
earnest Italian manner, repeating, '^JVon papa I NoN 
PAPA ! !" He handed us the right change, saying at the 
same time, with a smile on his face, " JSfon papa P^ Lan- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 141 

guasje failed us, our vocabulary in the Latin being too lim- 
ited ; or that ticket agent would have received a severe 
lecture for having attempted to swindle us. 

One of the many strange features which catch the 
American eye in Rome, and little accord with the Ameri- 
can idea, is the presence in the church of a foreign sol- 
diery. The Swiss guards (not composed exclusively of 
Swiss soldiers, but of those of various nationalities — the 
term being technical and not geographical), especially 
during great pageants, stand sentinel at the basilica and 
the Vatican. You meet them at every step. And as 
you see those bright uniforms and burnished swords, you 
inwardly contrast this papal kingdom with that of the 
Master, and find yourself murmuring, "My kingdom is 
not of this world." The Pope's body-guard (^Guarda 
Nohile) consists to a great extent of native Romans — 
members of old aristocratic families. 

Let us now go and see the Vatican. We ascend by 
long corridors and staircases. The name is derived from 
that of the hill on which the papal palace has been built, 
which is itself perhaps derived from a deity, Vaticanus, 
the presiding god of the first rudiments of speech — though 
upon this linguists, we believe, are not agreed. 

It is, however, decidedly the most celebrated of all the 
papal palaces, and is composed of a mass of buildings 
which cover a space of twelve hundred feet in length by 
one thousand feet in breadth, with over eleven thousand 
apartments. It owes its origin to the Bishop of Rome, 
who, in the early part of the sixth century, erected an 
humble residence on its site. Additions have been made 
7* 



142 A NEW PATH 

by all the different Popes from that time to the present. 
This is the winter residence of the Pope, and is contigu- 
ous to St. Peter's. It is without doubt the richest de- 
pository of antiquities, statues and pictures in the world. 
When it is known that there have been exhumed more 
than seventy thousand statues from the mined temples 
and palaces of Rome, the reader can form some idea of 
the riches of the Vatican. The Vatican will ever be held 
in veneration by the student, the artist, and the scholar. 
Raphael and Michael Angelo are enthroned here, and 
their throne will be as durable as the love of beauty and 
genius in the hearts of their Avorshipers. There are 
almost inumerable halls and galleries, with paintings and 
statuary of the highest order. In the Sistine (Sistina) 
chapel are to be seen the celebrated paintings of Michael 
Angelo. Among the number is his ''-Last Judgment,'^^ 
which occupied him seven years. In another part we 
looked, with transports of delight, upon '^ The Trans- 
jiguration^^^ the masterpiece of Raphael. With more 
pity than delight we noticed the painting (by Podesti) 
in " Commemoration of the promulgation of the dogma of 
the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, Pope 
Pius IX., 8th December, 1854." 

The Museum of Sculpture is equally extensive. There 
is so much of it that to ferret out even what is world-re- 
nowned becomes not a little irksome ; one must wade 
among miles of stone men and women, many of them 
nameless, moveless, noiseless, senseless. Among the 
famous antiques is the Laocoon^ pronounced by many as 
exceeding all that the arts of painting and sculpture have 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 143 

ever produced. Among so much merit in painting and 
sculpture, there is, of course, some mere trash and rub- 
bish. 

But we now go to take a ride on the Appian Way 
(^Via Apjna), leading from Rome through what were 
known as the Pontine Marshes, to Capua. Horace de- 
scribes these. When Paul was taken to Italy, he un- 
doubtedly entered Rome by this " Way." The Roman 
Christians, we know, when they were apprised of his 
coming, journeyed to meet him at " Appii Forum and the 
Three Taverns." The former is only forty-three miles 
from Rome on this "Way," and the latter ten miles 
nearer, also on the great road (F"m Appia). We pass 
the tombs of Scipio, Caius Cestius, and Maecenas. At 
the famous tomb of Cecilia Metella, the beauties of the 
Via Appia really begin. On every hand appear the 
remnants of departed glory. A short distance further on 
we emerge from the city walls, and enjoy uninterrupted 
views over the extended Latin plain, strewed with ruined 
castles and villages, and the long line of aqueducts, to 
the Sabine and Alban mountains, blue in the distance, 
and some of them hoary with the sunny snow. The 
tombs and monuments which line both sides of the Appian 
were once rich in marble and precious stones, but have 
been much dismantled and robbed of their beauty and 
wealth by the late Pope Pius IX., and the treasures con- 
verted into relics, and sold as revenues for the Romish 
Church. 

Whether in ancient times better roads and pavements 
were built than at present, or whether only the best ones 



144 A NEW PATH 

remain, is uncertain; but it is certain that some of the 
remains of such structures found in Rome evince engi- 
neering skill and perfection of work in a high degree. 
These were laid out carefully, excavated to solid ground, 
or in swampy places made solid by piles. Then the low- 
est course was of small sized, broken stones, none larger 
than three or four inches in diameter ; over these was a 
course, nine inches thick, of rubble or broken stone 
cemented with lime, well rammed; over this a course, six 
inches thick, of broken bricks and pottery, also cemented 
with lime ; upon this was laid the pavimentum, or pave- 
ment, composed of slabs of the hardest stone, joined and 
fitted together as closely as possible. This was costly— 
the Appian Way, about one hundred and thirty miles in 
length, having almost exhausted the Roman treasury — 
but it was as enduring as Nature's own work. In Peru 
and Central America similar remains, fifteen hundred 
to two thousand miles long, were found by the Spaniards, 
which, as Prescott says, were built of heavy flags of free- 
stone, and in some parts, at least, covered with a bitumin- 
ous cement which time has made harder than the stone 
itself. The roads of modern times lack most of the ele- 
ments of durability which these possessed, and conse- 
quently wear out in a very few years. 

Having gone out on the Appian as far as to the neigh- 
borhood of some of the catacombs, we stop to visit some 
of these. The St. Calixtus being represented as the best 
specimen and the most interesting, we prepared to see it. 
Every man with his overcoat on, a lighted taper in hand, 
and a special guide for all, we descended a long, narrow 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 145 

flight of steps into the dark depths below, and were soon 
on our way through the many subterranean galleries. 
The passage-ways are sometimes regular for a consider- 
able distance, but the multiplication of cross alleys and 
branches at last forms a labyrinth into which it would be 
rash to venture without a guide. These galleries and 
corridors are of various lengths and heights, generally 
seven to eight feet high and three to five feet wide. The 
tombs are excavations in the side walls, and remind one 
of the large shelvings in a store room. The roof is sup- 
ported by that part of the tufa which is left between the 
passage-ways, and in these walls the tombs are excavated. 
The tombs that are in a good state of preservation are 
closed up, either with a slab of marble or with a large 
thin brick. Inscriptions and emblems are found sculp- 
tured or painted on many of the slabs, and in some cases 
a small vase, supposed to have held blood, is attached to 
the end of the tomb. There are also large sepulchral 
chambers of various shapes — square, triangular, and semi- 
circular. These were doubtlessly family vaults, the walls 
of them being full of separate tombs. 

The origin of the Catacombs is involved in considerable 
mystery. It is likely that most of them were originally 
quarries, which afterwards came to be used as places of 
burial for the dead or as hiding-places for the living. It 
certainly appears settled that many, if not most of the 
existing Catacombs, were excavated by the Christians of 
the first three centuries, and were used as places of ref- 
uge in the times of the earliest persecutions, for example, 
that of Nero. They have served three distinct purposes : 



146 A NEW PATH 

as places of burial, places of worship in times of persecu- 
tion and trouble, and places of refuge for the early Chris- 
tians. 

We saw but few remains of the dead, and, upon the 
whole, were disappointed with these great under-ground 
receptacles. We were glad to leave the foul air and pol- 
luted odor down amongst the skeletons of past genera- 
tions, and breathe the better air in the light of day. 



CHAPTER XYI. 

OUE, LAST DAT IN ROME — CHURCHES AND FESTIYALS — PILATE's 
STAIRCASE — INDULGENCES — THE PANTHEON — VICTOR EMMAN- 
UEL'S TOMB — THE MAMERTINE PRISON — PAUL AND PETER — 
THE INDIGNANT GUIDE — THE CAPITOL — EMANCIPATED ROME, 

ON our return from the Catacombs over the Appian, 
passing the church Santa Maria Maggiore, and seeing 
so many people passing in and out its doors, we were in- 
clined to enter and see for ourselves. We soon learned 
that the festival in honor of the Immaculate Conception 
of the Virgin Mary was being celebrated. The crowds 
were great, the service carried on with astonishing zeal, 
the confusion bewildering, and for boisterousness, amount- 
ing even to bawling, the singing exceeded anything of 
the kind we ever heard. The service was held in one 
of the chapels of the church, the Borghese, and during 
all this time small white flowers were showered from the 
dome of the chapel down to the front of the altar, imitat- 
ing the miraculous fall of snow in August. This fall of 
snow dates to the fourth century, which also dates the 
erection of this church by Pope Liberius and John, a 
Roman Patrician, on the highest summit of the Esquiline, 
in commemoration of this miraculous event. The church 
covers the exact space on which this snow fell, and is an 
edifice of wonderful magnificence. One would hardly 
think it possible that people can be so enthusiastically 

(147) 



148 A NEW PATH 

wedded to such superstition and folly, and pities rather 
than despises the benighted people. Coming away from 
that festival, I thanked the Lord that I was not born in 
Rome. 

The next day after visiting the People's Square, which 
contains a number of fine obelisks, prominent among 
which is the one brought to Rome by Augustus Caesar 
from Egypt, we spent chiefly in seeing churches of his- 
toric note. Among these are the churches of St. Au- 
gustine and Santa Maria Minerva. In the former was 
going on the ceremony of kissing the saint's feet ; in the 
latter, we were delighted with Michael Angelo's " Christ" 
and" John the Baptist." Where this church now stands, 
originally stood the temple of Minerva. 

We also looked into the church of the Jesuits, of 
which sect St. Ignatio Loyola is the founder. This 
saint's tomb is under the altar of this church, and a 
magnificent life-sized statue of silver stands above the 
altar. 

The S. Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in chains) is an 
immense church, and was founded in A. D. 442, for the 
reception of the chains that had bound St. Peter in 
prison. We happened to be present at the annual fes- 
tival which is celebrated in memory of this event. We 
saw this chain, and judging from its massiveness, con- 
cluded that the captors of St. Peter must have regarded 
him a giant in strength, for it is heavy enough to hold 
securely an elephant. No wonder if poor Peter could 
not make his escape. The priests were busy with this 
chain, standing inside the altar, and pressing it to the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 149 

lips and foreheads of the multitude as thej passed by 
bowing to them. Our guide being one of the faithful, 
went through the same performance. This privilege is 
enjoyed only once a year. Of the monuments in this 
church the most remarkable are, Julius II., and Michael 
Angelo's famous statue of Moses. This is a grand and 
sublimely beautiful piece of workmanship. 

From this church we passed into another not far dis- 
tant, known as the Sanctus Sanctorum, the edifice which 
contains the famous Pilate's Staircase. These stairs con- 
sist of a flight of twenty-eight w^hite marble steps, ten 
feet wide. The steps having become so greatly worn by 
the crowds of Christian worshipers, who sought the op- 
portunity of going over them on their knees, it Avas 
deemed advisable to cover them with heavy boards, in 
which condition they now are, presenting the appearance 
of a wooden staircase, excepting the face of the original 
steps, which is still visible. These stairs are said to be 
the identical ones over which Christ passed in going to 
and from the trial chamber in Pilate's house at Jerusa- 
lem. There is some reason to believe that they are gen- 
uine, and they are said to have been brought to Home by 
Helena, the mother of Constantino, in the beginning of 
the fourth century. On the fourth step ascending, a 
stain, said to be a blood-mark of our divine Lord, is care- 
fully encased with heavy glass, ^o one is allowed to 
ascend this stairway except on his knees, and he must 
utter a prayer on every step. We didn't ascend, but 
saw many passing up muttering their prayers. On the 
Lord's day thousands of peasants crawl over these stairs 



150 A NEW PATH 

and apply for indulgences, which a notice over the door 
announces would be granted for " the living or the dead," 
price, five francs apiece — ($1). It was in 1510, when 
Luther visited Rome, and after having tried all the mum- 
meries and ceremonies of Poperj to obtain the expiation 
of his sins, that one day he undertook to crawl upon his 
knees over this staircase, to secure a certain indulgence 
promised by the Pope. While in the midst of his toil- 
some way up, repeating his prayer at each step, he heard 
the voice in his soul saying to him, " The just shall live 
by faith." He at once started up from his knees, heart- 
ily ashamed of the degradation to which his superstition 
had led him. This bext had a mysterious influence on 
the life of Luther. It was by the means of thos^ words 
that God then said, " Let there be light, and there was 
light." This was the decisive epoch in the inward life 
of Luther. Seven years after this he nailed to the 
church door at Wittenberg the ninety-five theses which 
inaugurated the glorious Reformation. 

Near the Sanctus Sanctorum church stands the St. 
John Late ran, which takes the precedence even of St. 
Peter's in ecclesiastical rank, being, as the inscription on 
its facade presumptuously sets forth in Latin, "the 
mother and head of the state, and of all the ecclesiastical 
world." It is the church of the Pope, as bishop of 
Rome, and here his coronation takes place. It was in 
this church that the General Council, called the Vatican, 
assembled in 1869-70. It is an edifice of much mag- 
nificence ; its doors are from the original Roman Forum. 
During our presence there was high mass, several cardi- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 151 

nals participating. The vocal music exceeded anything 
of the kind we ever heard, the famous tenor singer 
of Rome, who is not allowed to sing anywhere except in 
this church, being among the choir. In the crypt of this 
church is a piece of sculpture by Bernini, called Piety, 
representing Jesus reclining in the lap of Mary. For 
delicacy in tracery and natural representation, it is the 
most perfect piece of statuary in Rome : art exhausted 
itself. The cross, the crown, the profile of Mary, the 
dying Saviour, all is the perfect workmanship of a master 
of skiU. 

But we must pass unnoticed a number of interesting 
places, and say a word about the Pantheon. This is the 
most perfect of the ancient relics of Rome ; being erected 
twenty-seven years before the birth of Christ as a temple 
to the heathen gods by M. Agrippa. The original bronze 
doors still remain. In A. J). 608 it was consecrated as 
a Christian church, and is used as such now. The in- 
terior of this temple is a rotunda one hundred and forty- 
three feet in diameter, lighted only by a circular opening 
(twenty-eight feet in diameter) in the center of the dome. 
This is the only light the temple receives. The walls are 
twenty feet thick. It has become the burial place of 
painters, Raphael and Caracci being among the number. 
Victor Emmanuel is also buried here. Beautifully and 
well has the poet said of this old temple : 

"Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime — 
Shrine of all saints, and temple of all gods 
From Jove to Jesus — spared and blessed by time, 
Shalt thou not last? Time's scythe and tyrant's rod 
Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home 
Of art and piety — Pantheon, pride of Rome !" 



152 A NEW PATH 

The next place of special interest we visited was the 
Mamertine prison, where tradition says Peter and Paul 
were confined by Nero. It is considered the oldest relic 
of Rome, and attributed to Ancus Martins, its fourth king ; 
the lower cell to Servius Tullius. The prison is under a 
small church, behind the arch of Severus, on the decliv- 
ity of the Capitoline Hill. The lower cell is six and a 
half feet high, nineteen feet long, and nine feet wide, of 
Cyclopean architecture, the large stones being strongly 
united by iron clamps. The cell above is twenty-seven 
feet by nineteen feet, and fourteen feet high, hewn from 
the solid rock. It was in the lower cell that Paul was 
imprisoned. The circular aperture at the top shows 
where the prisoners were thrust down. As we were de- 
scending by the circular stairway into this place, our 
guide was careful to call our attention to a dent in the 
stone wall where, lie said, "Peter struck his head in 
passing down, causing this mark in the wall." To be- 
lieve this, one deserves to be congratulated on the ro- 
bustness of his faith. 

We annoyed not a little our guide, who was a true son 
of the Roman faith, by remarking that if the " head mak- 
ing the dent in that rocky wall had been Martin Luther's 
when in Rome instead of St. Peter's, we would not be 
so much surprised, for you know Luther had a very hard 
head!" This was sacrilegious language, and was re- 
ceived with the utmost disrelish by the guide, for he 
believed the story of St. Peter. 

Below is the heavy stone pillar to which Paul, with 
the soldiers, was chained. Near by is the well which 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 153 

miraculously sprang there for the comfort of Paul. The 
thing to do is to drink of its water ; of course we did not 
fail to do so. We put the Church of Rome against the 
world for the invention of myths and plausible nonsense. 
Second Timothy contains several allusions to Paul's second 
and severe imprisonment, and it may be that it was here, 
in this imprisonment he wrote 2 Timothy, justly called 
his "last testament." He was taken thence bound and 
in fetters to the Salvian w^aters, about three miles from 
Rome, where, on the 29th of June, A. D. 66, and in the 
sixty-eighth year of his age, he closed his life of persecu- 
tion and trial by being beheaded, about tlie same time 
that St. Peter was crucified. 

It was late in the afternoon that we visited the Capitol. 
On our way thither we passed the triumphal arch of Con- 
stantine, erected after his victory over Maxentius near 
Rome, A. D. 311. It is the best preserved and the 
most beautiful of Roman arches, but a singular testimony 
of the meanest vanity. The Capitol stands one hundred 
feet above the Tiber. On our approach to it we passed 
under the arch of Titus which stands at the summit of the 
Yia Sacra (Sacred Way) so well remembered by the 
classical student as the favorite promenade of Horace, 
and as the route by which triumphal processions passed 
to the temple of Jupiter. The ancient pavement of the 
Sacred Way, composed of lava, still remains. 

The Capitol is approached by a magnificent stairway. 
The open space in front of the building marks the place 
where Brutus harangued the people after the murder of 
Caesar. The Senate chamber sleeps somber under the 



154 A NEW PATH 

shadows of departed glory. The Capitoline museum con- 
tains a vast collection of sculptures, less extensive than 
that of the Vatican, but including some of the most 
famous antiques, such as the Dying Gladiator, the Venus 
of the Capitol, and the Faun of Praxiteles. Of course 
the picture gallery is also there, and has many rare 
paintings. 

But we must leave the Capitol, with many things un- 
said, and also get ready to leave the Holy City. We 
might indulge in many reflections ; one or two must do. 
As we wandered amid the ruins of Rome, attesting its 
ancient splendor, we were constantly reminded of the 
power of Christianity in the overthrow of the numerous 
heathen temples, broken columns, and crumbling palaces. 
While the Roman religion is still dominant (and much 
superstition yet remains), yet the people are free, no 
longer the miserable vassals of the Pope, and the Rome 
of the present is a cradle of liberty compared with what 
it was before Victor Emmanuel's army marched into the 
city. Light is breaking more and more, and the people 
fear not to proclaim their independence. We believe 
that the mayor of Rome represented the true sentiment 
of his constituents when he said, at a recent banquet, 
that they " would rather see the city laid in ashes than 
given over again to papal domination." Hopefully we 
sav, " Adieu to Rome." 



CHAPTER XVII. 

FROM ROME TO NAPLES — THE CITY OF NAPLES — ITS PEOPLE — 
POMPEII— THE BURIED CITY — THE WORK OF EXCAVATION — 
OLD COLLEGE FRIENDS — THE TESTIMONY TO THE WRITINGS 
OF ST. PAUL. 

THERE is nothing specially interesting in scenery be- 
tween Rome and Naples. The country generally is 
low and flat, and in August much of it parched and dry. 
We noticed an Eastern threshing scene, however, which 
greatly interested us. ' There was the elevated threshing- 
floor and the oxen making their rounds, drawing the 
threshing machine, formed of a heavy square frame with 
rollers, each of which was encircled by iron rings or 
wheels serrated like the teeth of a saw. In this way 
the grain was separated from the straw and chaff" on the 
threshing-floor. Near by was the man with a large 
shovel, winnowing the grain by throwing it up in the air, 
the wind driving away the chaff", and the grain remaining 
in a heap before him. 

It was near midnight when we reached Naples, but the 
city presented the appearance of a gay holiday. Every- 
body seemed outdoors, and every variety of business and 
trade conceivable was carried on in the streets. A reg- 
ular moving panorama was witnessed in every direction. 
Carriages and vehicles were running all night ; and the 
merry peals of laughter and cracking of whips during the 
(155) 



156 A NEW PATH 

small hours, showed that their occupants were seeking 
pleasure and enjoyment. 

After a long ride through the city we reached our 
hotel, The Metropole, situated on the beautiful bay. My 
chamber window looked out over the Mediterranean, and 
the silvery way of the bright moon upon its waters pro- 
duced a marvel of beauty. 

The next day we spent in looking about in Naples, and 
arranged for an excursion to Pompeii. " See Naples and 
die," may do to say, but if this saying means that to see 
Naples is to have seen all that is worth seeing, we should 
judge the man very foolish to die, if he had the controll- 
ing of that serious event. Especially would we prefer 
not to die just the7i and in Na2)les. Naples is very 
ancient, but not the perfection of beauty, and certainly 
not of glory. The city was founded by the people of 
Cumae, a colony of Greece, who gradually spread them- 
selves around the Bay of Naples, and was called from 
this circumstances Neapolis^ or "New City." It has a 
population of five hundred thousand people. The country 
around it is rich in beautiful scenery. It is principally in 
respect to situation that this city surpasses most others, 
being partly built on a spacious bay in crescent shape, 
on the shores of w^hich are magnificent villas and gardens. 
Most of the streets are well paved with square blocks of 
lava laid in mortar, and said to resemble old Roman 
roads. Naples carries on immense business operations, 
the throng on the streets being very great, the rush and 
noise almost bewildering. Owing to the mildness of the 
climate, much of the business is carried on in the open 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 157 

streets, and you can purchase almost anything you wish 
without entering a building. 

There is a greater combination of street scenes in Naples 
than any other city we have ever seen. Elegance and 
squalid poverty move side by side. Men and beasts of 
all kinds huddle together, and seem to understand each 
other wonderfully well. The little donkey intrudes him- 
self upon your view on any way you may chose to walk. 
Every household has its donkey, and almost every direc- 
tion you take you see women perched high upon top of 
the loaded animal, carrying a perfect variety store, the 
donkey braying as loud as an elephant at every donkey 
acquaintance that may pass him, and the women scream- 
ing at the top of their voices in efforts to sell their wares. 
What harmonious sounds swell the air! Coming sud- 
denly into an Italian community, where all the active 
pursuits of life are in full progress, you imagine from the 
violent gesticulations and loud emphatic language, that a 
general quarrel is in progress. But nothing could be 
further from the truth, for Naples is an orderly city, 
though it is noisy. It is the nature of the Italian to be 
noisy. The Neapolitans are happy. They look happy, 
talk happy, and are a jovial people in all grades of life, 
from the lazzaroni to the prince. Goldsmith's picture 
of Itallian manners and morals is more applicable here 
than in any other portion of Italy we know of : 

"But small the bliss that sense alone bestows, 
And sensual bliss is all the nation knows. 
In florid beauty groves and fields appear, 
Man seems the only growth that dwindles here. 
8 



158 A NEW PATH 

Contrasted faults through all his manners reign ; 
Though X)Oor, luxurious ; though submissive, vain ; 
Though grave, yet trifling ; zealous, yet untrue ; 
And, even in penance, planning sins anew." 

The nobility are fond of great show and splendor. 
The females are proud, even when very poor. They 
seldom go out unless to ride, and bestow great pains and 
time upon their personal charms to fascinate the opposite 
sex. The principal promenade of the ladies is upon their 
own roofs, which are generally adorned with shrubs and 
flowers. 

Naples is of course not without its many churches, 
some being very remarkable for their architecture and 
works of art. It also has its fine museum. Here we 
saw the collection of ancient frescoes found at Hercula- 
neum and Pompeii. Some of the subjects are beautifully 
portrayed; others are abiding testimonials of the shame- 
ful and disgusting state of morals that prevailed in those 
buried cities of the past. 

But we must leave Naples, and pass on to Pompeii. 
We proceeded by rail to Annunziata, a small town fifteen 
miles distant, and thence four miles further by carriage 
to the gates of Pompeii. With our loquacious guide, who 
puts many languages into one, we pass in, taking our 
course through the cemetery where we inspected the 
cremation furnace — for the Romans burnt their dead— 
and soon we were walking in the streets of Pompeii, that 
most weird and wonderful of all cities. It is well known 
to my readers that this city was overwhelmed in the 
year 79 by the terrific eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, at 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 159 

whose foot the city stood, and continued to be buried 
under the ashes and other volcanic matter for seventeen 
centuries. For many centuries its very site was un- 
known. At length, in 1689, some ruins were noticed, 
but it was not until 1755, when the peasants were em- 
ployed in cutting a ditch, that ruins of the city were dis- 
covered, since which time the Neapolitan government has 
continued the work of excavation almost constantly to the 
present. 

The remains found are in a remarkably good state 
of preservation, owing to the fact that the city was not 
destroyed by lava, but by showers of sand, ashes, and 
cinders, forming a light covering, which found its way 
into every nook, an4, as it were, hermetically sealed up 
the town. It would appear that in some parts at least 
the matter was deposited in a liquid state, and so flowed 
into the remotest cellars of the doomed habitations. 
The immense volumes of water which poured down 
mixed with the ashes that had already fallen and with 
those that were still suspended in the air, and formed a 
kind of liquid mud. This is proved by the discovery of 
quite a number of skeletons in cellars, of men and women, 
enclosed in moulds of volcanic paste, which received and 
have retained perfect impressions of their forms. The 
houses were plain, closely built, and low, being seldom 
more than two stories high, and had all their good apart- 
ments on the ground floor. The city is about two miles 
in circumference, and is surrounded by a wall. The 
streets are extremely narrow, and it is evident that not 
more than one vehicle could pass at one time in any but 



160 A NEW PATH 

the principal thoroughfares. They are well paved, and 
bordered by a narrow pavement and curb-stone, elevated 
about a foot above the carriage way. You see the wheel- 
worn streets, the ruts in the stones cut there by the gay 
chariots when Christ was walking by the sea of Galilee 
two thousand years ago, and also where were baths and 
dressing-rooms and dining-rooms and work-shops, where 
the living multitude had moved and luxuriated and toiled. 
There are the beer-shops, with the marks of the tumblers 
still fresh on the marble counter, with the brothel and 
theatre and dancing hall near by. There too stands a 
tavern, with the rings yet entire to which the horses were 
hitched, and where the bones of a mother and three 
children were found locked in each other's arms, decked 
with gold ornaments elaborately worked, and enriched 
with pendant pearls of great value. The public bake- 
liouse is still there. It has four mills in it. The oven is 
precisely after the fashion of the ovens of bakers of the 
present day. There, too, in a marble niche, by the gate 
which looked toward the burning mountain, is the place 
where stood the faithful sentinel on that fatal day when 
Vesuvius burst out into an eruption, and, amid the noise 
of a hundred thunders, buried the fated city. After 
seventeen centuries they found the skeleton of the senti- 
nel standing erect at his post, clad in his rusty armor, the 
helmet on his empty skull, and his bony fingers still 
closed upon his spear. He was "faithful unto death." 
We were also in the houses of Sallust, one of the 
largest in the city, and of great elegance, and of the 
tragic poet, called the House of Homer. These dear 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 161 

old friends of our college days, how could we pass by 
their homes, having come so far? It is true, they often 
gave us much trouble and subjected us to hard work, 
early and late ; but having learned the benefit of such 
toil, as well as reaped its good fruits, we generously for- 
gave the ancient worthies all. 

And now we pass into the houses of the nobility and 
the learned writers of those early days. The first one is 
the villa of Diomede. On the night of the eruption, the 
owner of this once splendid mansion appears to have lost 
the love of kindred in the eagerness to save life ; for his 
skeleton was found, with that of an attendant, near the 
garden gate, the one still holding in his bony grasp the 
key to the villa, the other carrying a purse containing 
one hundred gold and silver coins, and some silver vases. 
While he was thus endeavoring to escape to the sea-shore, 
the members of his family, whom he had abandoned to 
their fate, took refuge in the wine-cellar, where seventeen 
of their skeletons were found near the door. 

From the golden bracelets on the necks and arms of 
nearly all these skeletons, it would appear that they were 
nearly all females. Two were the skeletons of children, 
whose skulls still retained some portions of beautiful blonde 
hair. '' After they had perished, probably from suifoca- 
tion, the floor of the cellar was inundated with a fine allu- 
vium, which hardened on the bodies and took casts, not 
only of their forms, but even of the most delicate texture 
of the linen they wore, and of the jewels which adorned 
their persons." One cast of a young girl, part of which we 
saw in the museum, was a perfect model of female beauty. 



1(52 A NEW PATH 

The Forum is a spacious and imposing spot, sur- 
rounded by the temple of Jupiter, the temple of Yenus, 
and the Senate chamber. In a vault under the stairway 
of the latter, which was used as a prison during the pro- 
gress of trials, were found two skeletons with their ankles 
menacled. Among the inscriptions under the portico of 
the Senate chamber were some verses from Ovid's Art 
of Love. 

Besides these public places, we also noticed many 
buildings with their utensils of trade in them, wine shops, 
oil factories with their jars of stone, and restaurants. 
Others had signs denoting the trade that was carried on 
in them. Thus, a goat indicated a milk-shop or dairy ; 
two men carrying a large jug indicated a wine-shop ; 
two men fighting indicated a gladiatorial school ; a man 
whipping a boy hoisted on another's back indicated a 
school-master. Some of the houses of bad repute remain 
marked to the present day by indelicate figures carved 
above the door. 

If we had nothing more to prove the authenticity, as 
well as credibility of Paul's epistle to the Romans, than 
the paintings and indelicately carved figures still extant 
within and on the outside of many houses in Pompeii, 
these alone would be sufficient. Here remains, self- 
proved, in paintings and sculpture, the very dreadful state 
of immorality which St. Paul so graphically describes 
especially in the first chapter to the Romans ; and this 
epistle was written by the apostle about twenty years 
before the destruction of Pompeii. 

In the museum of Pompeii one sees a variety of things 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 163 

taken from its ruins. Here are bodies of the dead in 
petrified stone, the bones yet complete, rings on the 
fingers; one man lying on his right side (resting his 
head on his hand), asleep when the city was over- 
whelmed. Among the household efi'ects we saw such as 
loaves of bread, a nest of eggs, prunes, lamps, locks, 
ropes, dogs and cats. 

The melancholy destitution of such a city, as one walks 
in its deserted streets and open houses, cannot fail to 
awaken feelings of awe and sympathy. The stillness 
that reigns falls like a shadow on the spirit. As another 
says : 

"How sadly echoing the stranger's tread, 
Those walls respond, like voices from the dead." 

Everything is there that belonged to a great and opu- 
lent city, but the inhabitants. As you pass out you look 
back upon the disentombed city, and beyond it on Vesu- 
vius, standing solemn, grand and lonely, sending up its 
steady column of fire and smoke, a perpetual tombstone 
for the dead at its feet. You can see the track of the 
lava in its wild and fiery march for the sea, and imagine 
just how the cloud of ashes rose from the summit and 
came flying toward the terror-stricken city, covering it 
twenty feet above the tops of the houses — and the gay, 
pleasure-loving and licentious city lay buried as century 
after century rolled by, till nearly seventeen hundred 
years had passed away before the first opening was made 
into the hill that covered it. 



CHAPTER XYIII. 



MOUNT VESUVIUS — ITS ASCENT BY MOONLIGHT — THE CAKEIAGE 
WAY — THE EOPE RAILROAD - THE INCIDENT AT THE BATTLE 
OF GETTYSBURG — ON FOOT — THE ENCOUNTER WITH PROFES- 
SIONAL GUIDES — ACROSS THE SULPHUR BEDS— THE BURN- 
ING MOUNTAIN — THE FINAL ASCENT — LOOKING INTO THE 
CRATER — THE SUBTERRANEAN THUNDERS — OUR RETREAT — 
THE BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT OF LAND AND SEA — WHAT VOLCA- 
NOES CAN DO. 



A 



fter having spent a day in examining Pompeii, we 
proceeded by rail in the evening to Portici, situated 
at the foot of Mt. Vesuvius, and ten miles distant from 
Pompeii. In order to escape the heat of the day, and 
also to see Vesuvius to its best advantage, it was deter- 
mined to make its ascent by night. It is safe to say that 
one who has never ascended this mountain can form no 
idea of its many and strange wonders. Looking at it 
from Naples as it rolls its column of white smoke perpet- 
ually into the sky, or reading all the numerous descrip- 
tions that have been given of it, or viewing it in engrav- 
ings and paintings, can give but a very faint idea of what 
it is in reality. Viewing it from a distance, or at its 
base, and scanning its mighty proportions, one becomes 
possessed with a desire that amounts almost to intensity, 
to ascend this wonderful mountain. To have been up 
and back again is quite a feat, but, as a rule, one does 
not care to repeat it. 

(164) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 165 

In company with three others, we took our seat in a 
carriage drawn by three excellent horses hitched abreast, 
and started from the railway station at nine o'clock in the 
evening, passing through the town of Portici. We passed 
through this place also on our return, when we had a 
view of true Italian life among the poorer class of people. 
The sights were ''stunning." To see children of both 
sexes, from two to ten years old, running about the 
streets by day and night in a perfectly nude state ; cattle 
and people herded together, making one family; the 
streets reeking with filth, the air loaded with stifling 
odors, the absence of all modesty and delicacy among the 
people — all this forcibly and sadly impressed us with the 
great need of the refining and elevating influences of our 
holy Christianity. These people have no idea of proper 
family life and home training. Their teachers have pos- 
sibly never taught them better, for generally Rome suc- 
ceeds best where it can keep its people in the greatest 
darkness, and in utter ignorance of all that would advance 
them in civilization, and make them capable of self-gov- 
ernment. In this town, as in others in Italy, we saw, 
with few exceptions, no clean and tidy children, nor any 
of those evidences of rural comforts and happiness which 
are so common in the towns and rural districts of our 
own country. With the Italians the rule is filth and 
stench, beggars and fleas. 

But now we pass out of Portici. It was a mild, clear 

night ; the moon was in her prime, and the stars shone 

out like gems of crystallized light, without a single cloud 

to obscure their glorious radiance. We ascend gradually 

8* 



166 A NEW PATH 

among cultivated fields and vineyards, occasionally tra- 
versing streams of old lava, black, rough and sterile. 

As we ascend higher we now and then get glimpses of 
the burning mountain in front of us, while to our right 
lies the beautiful city of Naples, in crescent form, on the 
shore of its delightful bay. And now, as if to compete 
with the wonderful fireworks on top of the mountain, 
suddenly the city below bursts into a great glow of 
brightness by the ten thousand sky-rockets that shoot 
into the air with their colored lights, and the people re- 
joice in one of their numerous festivities. The scene 
was kept up for several hours, and was one of its own, for 
we cannot describe it. 

Now we pass the fine mansion of an Italian nobleman 
who delights to call this his summer residence. To build 
so stately a mansion on so uncertain a foundation as the 
side of a burning mountain is not a little surprising, but 
may not be so inconsistent after all when we remember 
the extreme fondness the European noblemen have for 
" building castles in the air." 

After a most delightful ride of three hours we reached 
the end of the carriage-way, and "put up" in a small 
house that passes for a hotel, hung on the side of the 
mountain. Here we remained from midnight till three 
o'clock in the morning. Sleep did not come to us read- 
ily in such a place and amid such surroundings. At 
three a. m. we took our places in the single car at the 
station of the Ferrovia Funicalore di Vesovo, or Yesu- 
vian Rope Railway. The station is nothing more than a 
wooden shanty, sufficiently enduring until the next erup- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD 167 

tion has brushed both station and railway off the side of 
the mountain. This railroad is one mile and a half long, 
and of very peculiar construction. It goes straight up 
the mountain, a grade of thirty-five degrees. The line 
is a double one ; but the carriages, of which there are 
two — one ascending while the other descends — run each 
on a single rail raised about a foot from the bed of the 
road on the massive sleeper. The wheels are placed be- 
neath the carriage in a line along the centre of its floor, 
and on these wheels the carriage is balanced in what 
seems a very uncanny fashion astride the high rail. An 
endless wire rope working over large pulleys at the 
upper and lower stations is fixed to each carriage ; and 
the rope being set \in motion by a stationary engine be- 
low, one carriage mounts while the other descends the 
steep gradient of more than thirty degrees. Consider- 
ing the exorbitant fares charged, it would not seem to be 
an unusual stretch of the imagination to believe that the 
president of this railroad soliloquized something like this : 
" Let us cut down our expenses to the lowest cent, and 
squeeze as much money as we can to-day from tourists 
and students of nature, for to-morrow the mountain may 
be on the rampage, and all our money-making machines 
disappear." 

But now off we go up the inclined railway. A feeling 
akin to helplessness takes hold of one just then. The 
electric lights along the way, the gliding through the air, 
the brightness of the moon, the burning, moaning and 
thundering mountain, the great lava-beds stretching far 
away on every side, with the strong fumes of sulphur 



168 A NEW PATH 

loading the air — all this formed a weird sight, and pro- 
duced next to an indescribable sensation. We dared 
hardly think of the imminent peril we were in, or of the 
sudden destruction that might come upon us from the 
fiery mouth of the mountain above. 

Being in such a place and amid such surroundings, in 
order to divert the attention as well as the tendon of the 
minds and nerves of our traveling companions chiefly^ 
we thought it good to tell the incident of the man at the 
battle of Gettysburg. This soldier, becoming greatly 
excited, and no doubt thinking of his family, in the thick- 
est of the fight exclaimed : " Poys, dis is no place for a 
man mid a wife and five childs at home ! " 

But after ten minutes' ride we were at the terminus of 
the railroad, and leaving the car we were off on a long 
heavy tramp over a rugged and steep path, deep at places 
with ashes, and flanked by walls of rough scoriae. We 
had scarcely proceeded on our way wdien four stalwart 
men confronted us, declaring themselves professional 
guides — that intolerable nuisance — and insisting upon it 
that each of us must pay them fifteen francs ($3) before 
we could go on our way, and then they would act as 
guides. Of course we objected, telling them that we had 
arranged and paid for a round trip from Naples to the 
top of the mountain and return, and that we would accept 
of no guides. This set them to yelling and screaming 
and to vehement gesticulating in true Italian style, and 
at the same time declaring that they were responsible for 
the lives of all tourists who ascended the mountain, and 
that we could not go a step forward without their permis- 



ACKOSS AN OLD FIELD. 1G9 

sion. We at once took in the situation, and suiting our 
actions to our words we began to move off and upward, 
utterly ignoring their threats and prohibitions. On and 
up we made our way, slowly, laboriously ; the top of the 
mountain, hidden until now by the slope of the cone, 
came suddenly into view, a dense cloud of white smoke 
issuing from the crater, brilliantly illuminated by im- 
mense flames of fire, accompanied by intermittent dis- 
charges of burning cinders and ashes, shot high into the 
air. A few paces more, quickened by the inspiration of 
the scene before us, and, passing over a low brow at the 
summit of the great cone, we found ourselves in front of 
a small hut of roughly thrown together lava blocks, and 
we have gained the top of the great cone. Here we 
rested and enjoyed the awful prospect. Yonder stands 
the burning cone, belching forth immense volumes of fire 
and smoke, the mountain heaving and laboring, roaring 
and moaning, under its weary toil. 

At the first dawn of day we started to cross over the 
sulphur-beds, of fifty yards width, which lay between us 
and the fiery crater. This plateau is covered with a 
rough crest of sulphur, serpentine shape, whose brilliant 
tints of yellow and orange and green were beautiful with 
reptilian beauty. At its farther edge rises the final cone 
of Vesuvius; a steep mound of black clinkers several 
hundred feet high, like the cinder heaps around a great 
iron-works. From its mouth rose a thick column of light - 
colored smoke, and at intervals of a few seconds a deep, 
soft roar was heard, like the rushing of distant waters, 
and a gush of ashes and flames and fiery lumps of cinder 



170 A NEW PATH 

shot up hundreds of feet into the air, with a speed grad- 
ually decreasing till they reached their culminating point, 
where they hovered for a moment before they went 
swooping downward into the crater again. Such fire- 
works are only seen on Vesuvius by night. The guides 
again beset us, but we fought them off, and picked our 
way over the treacherous floor of reeking sulphur. Our 
party consisting of three clergymen and one lawyer, we 
had both the law and gospel on our side, and of course 
gained a victory over the would-be guides. Walking 
over the furrowed and fissured field of crisp sulphur was 
enough to create a strange sensation. We soon found 
ourselves on extremely hot places — it was hot everywhere 
— intolerable to the hand, and standing still fatal to the 
soles of our shoes. All about us teemed hot vapors of 
sulphur, almost taking away our breath, causing us to 
halt and cough spasmodically every half dozen steps we 
made. Smoke issued from numerous crevices, at the 
the entrance of which a piece of paper or a stick took 
fire almost instantly. Stooping low, we could hear the 
noise like that of a liquid boiling. But now we have 
passed over the basin and reached the base of the final 
cone, up which we must crawl to have a look into the fiery 
crater. This last ten minutes' work up this steep slope 
of moving cinders was more fatiguing than all that had 
gone before. The sulphurous fumes curling up between 
every crevice grew stronger, and the heat under our feet 
even greater. 

After an earnest struggle for victory, we were at the 
top and on the edge of the crater, and walking on, amid 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. ITI 

fumes of sulphur and heated air, for about fifty paces, 
we gained a position where we looked down into the 
deep, yawning chasm — a sea of rolling, sweeping flames 
threatening to swallow up and consume the entire moun- 
tain. One side of the crater is smooth and horizontal 
as if built of solid masonry. We could hear terrific re- 
ports of the subterranean thunder. Now and then vast 
sheets of flame and red-hot cinders would shoot hundreds 
of feet over our heads, and set us dodging here and there, 
or absurdly ducking our heads and shrugging our shoul- 
ders. Our situation was not a pleasant one ; the moun- 
tain quaked, the heat was intense, the sulphur fumes 
almost stifling ; and it did not take us long to be ready 
and willing to retraqe our steps. 

We soon turned our back on the fiery lake in that 
mountain crown of untold depths, and retired in rather 
disorderly fashion, coughing and sliding, stumbling and 
tumbling down the scorching hot cinder cone, until we 
reached the lava rampart which bounds the solid sulphur 
bed below. Here, breathing freely once more, we sat 
down that early morning and enjoyed the spacious pros- 
pect of land and sea. Four thousand feet below us lay 
Naples, with its beautiful sea-line ; beyond the bay, with 
Capri and Ischia, slumbering in the blue waters. In an- 
other direction we see the ships standing afar ofi" in the 
great wide sea, the fleecy clouds encircling them as with 
robes of white light, while inland rose Vesuvius with its 
everlasting plume of smoke and fire swaying in the wind, 
the bright blue Italian sky arching over us — all presenting 
a view that can never fade from our memory. Weary and 



172 A NEW PATH 

jaded we reached Naples awhile before noon, wiser for 
having been on Mount Vesuvius — but content not to go 
again. 

It is not often that tourists venture to ascend the last 
cone of Mt. Vesuvius, from which point alone one can see 
down into the crater. It is, to say the least, venture- 
some and decidedly dangerous, from the fact that at any 
moment an eruption may take place. Only a few days 
after our ascent the great mountain was fiercely shaken 
by volcanic action, the fiery rockets flying in all direc- 
tions and the lava flowing freely in fiery streams. All 
the inhabitants about the mountain, and even the people 
of Naples, fourteen miles distant, are much exercised 
whenever the mountain becomes more than ordinarily 
restless. Neither is this surprising when we remember 
what volcanoes can do. 

Cotopaxi, in 1838, threw its fiery rockets three thou- 
sand feet above its crater, while in 1854 the blazing mass, 
struggling for an outlet, roared so that its awful voice 
was heard at a distance of more than six hundred miles. 
In 1797 the crater of Tuangurangua, one of the great 
peaks of the Andes, flung out torrents of mud, which 
dammed up the rivers, opened new lakes, and in valleys a 
thousand feet wide made deposits six hundred feet deep. 
The stream from Vesuvius, which, in 1337, passed through 
Torre del Greco, contained thirty-two thousand cubic feet 
of solid matter, and, in 1703, when Torre del Greco was 
destroyed a second time, the mass of lava amounted to 
45,000,000 cubic feet. 

In 1760 Aetna poured forth a flood which covered 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 173 

eightj-four square miles of surface, and measured nearly 
1,000,000,000 cubic feet. On this occasion the sand 
and scoria formed the Monte Rosini, near Nicholosa, a 
cone of two miles in circumference and four thousand 
feet high. The stream thrown out by Aetna in 1816 
was in motion, at the rate of a yard a day, for nine 
months after the eruption ; and it is on record that the 
lava of the same mountain, after a terrible eruption, was 
not thoroughly cool and consolidated for ten years after 
the event. In the eruption of Vesuvius, A. D. T9, the 
scoria and ashes which belched forth far exceeded the 
entire bulk of the mountain ; while, in 1860, Aetna dis- 
gorged twenty times its own mass. Vesuvius has sent its 
ashes as far as Const|intinople, Syria, and Egypt ; it hurled 
stones eight pounds in weight to Pompeii, a distance of 
ten miles, while similar masses were tossed up two thou- 
sand feet above the summit. Cotopaxi has projected a 
block of one hundred cubic yards in volume, a distance 
of nine miles ; and Sumbawa, in 1815, during the most 
terrible eruption on record, sent its ashes as far as Java, 
a distance of three hundred miles. 

Such being the power of volcanoes, it is not a matter 
of surprise in the least that people living in their vicinity 
should become anxious and nervous whenever these fiery 
mountains are given to more than ordinary eruptions. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

FROM ITALY INTO SWITZERLAND — SOME REFLECTIONS — PISA — 
GENOA — TURIN — OVER THE ALPS — MONT CENIS TUNNEL — 
GENEVA — JOHN CALYIN's HOUSE — MONT BLANC. 

HAYING reached the farthest point of our journey, 
we retraced our steps from Naples and returned to 
Rome^ where we spent the night and part of the next 
day resting. Taking it all together, we were pleased 
and certainly profited by our visit to Italy, but still were 
not sorry when our tour was completeted. There is 
no country in Europe more replete with interest and in- 
struction to the tourist, but the Italians are not, to 
our taste, the most desirable people to live among. 
There is no doubt much refinement and great elegance, 
but misery and wretchedness, consequent upon squalid 
poverty, largely preponderate. Sidney Smith summed 
up his experience in Italy by asserting that whilst the 
old Italians were all Jupiters, the present race were all 
Jew-Peters. Adepts as they still are in taking advan- 
tage of tourists, it is believed that they are greatly im- 
proved for the better of late years. They, no doubt, are 
as well advanced in morals and intelligence as other peo- 
ple, considering the training they have received, and the 
oppressive ecclesiastical hierarchy under which they have 
lived so long. As a rule, people do not grow in advance 
of their teachers. But under present rule in Italy, both 
the country and its people are improving. On the day 
(174) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 175 

that Yictor Emmanuel marched with his army into Rome, 
regeneratian commenced in Italy, and the present King, 
Humbert, is carrying on the good work with energy and 
success. The only drawbacks seem to be the soldiers 
and the priests. Perhaps the former, under existing cir- 
cumstances, are a necessity ; but the latter certainly are 
not. About every twentieth man you meet is a priest 
or a friar , but for all this great excess of ecclesiastics, 
the people do not evince any excess of piety. Judging 
from appearance, and the great dislike, which even 
amounts to hatred, that the people cherish for this class 
of idlers, it is evident that most of them would do better 
for themselves, and be of more profit to Italy, if they 
would work in the vineyards on the hills than in the vine- 
yard of the Lord. 

But for all this, the darkness of ignorance and super- 
stition are giving way under the light of a better dispen- 
sation. Blind faith is being supplanted by enlightened 
trust in Him who alone can forgive sins. The religion 
which destroyed humanity is losing its hold, for that 
which saves and emancipates and redeems. Truly, " the 
entrance of Thy word giveth light." 

But we now take our final leave of Rome, and are on 
our way to Pisa. Our way lay along the shores of the 
beautiful Mediterranean, and aff"orded us many delightful 
views from our car window. The day being bright and 
cool, we greatly enjoyed the ride and the rest. Excepting 
the numerous walled towns through which we passed, and 
the many castles perched on the tops of hills and moun- 
tains, there was nothing of special interest in the country 



176 A NEW PATH 

which we traversed. It was late at night when we 
reached Pisa, and sleep came unbidden, and much re- 
freshed us for our next day's work. 

Pisa is a beautiful city, situated on the north bank of 
the Arno. It was formerly the capital of one of Italy's 
most celebrated republics. In its palmiest days it had a 
population of one hundred and fifty thousand ; at present 
it numbers but thirty thousand. It is celebrated for its 
profusion of fine marble. Its principal attractions are 
the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Leaning Tower, and 
Campo Santo. The cathedral is a magnificent structure, 
and contains many fine paintings, and the famed twelve 
altars designed by Michael Angelo. At the end of the 
nave is suspended the large and beautiful bronze lamp, 
the swinging of which first suggested to Galileo the 
theory of the pendulum. He was then but eighteen 
years of age. 

The Leaning Tower is a world-wide curiosity. Every 
school-boy looks at its picture in his geography, wonder- 
ing and puzzled. It is extraordinary, not for its beauty 
so much as for its inclination from the perpendicular. It 
is one hundred and ninety feet in height, consisting of 
eight stories, with outside galleries projecting seven feet. 
It contains a peal of six large bells, the heaviest weigh- 
ing six tons. The topmost story overhangs the base on 
one side about fifteen feet. Looking at it, you wonder 
that it does not fall, but it has stood leaning in this way 
for seven hundred years. Some have thought the incli- 
nation was intentional, but it is pretty certain that it was 
caused by an unequal settling of the foundation. When 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 177 

it is remembered that the ground in the neighborhood is 
porous and almost marshy, this seems a probable, as well 
as a reasonable solution of the Tower's leaning. 

The Campo Santo or burial ground is a curious spot, 
and greatly interests the stranger. It is surrounded by 
a stone wall forty-three feet high, and roofed toward the 
centre. Archbishop Waldo, in 1188, after the loss of 
the Holy Land, had conveyed hither fifty ship-loads of 
earth from Mount Calvary, in order that the dead might 
repose in holy ground. 

But it is train time, and we are again on our way, fly- 
ing along the blue Mediterranean, refreshed with its cool 
breezes and interested in the whales we see here and 
there, disporting theniselves in the beautiful sea. The 
railroad, all the way from Pisa to Genoa, is a wonder in 
itself, being tunneled for many miles through solid rock 
projecting out into the sea. We were sorry that our 
time did not allow us to remain at Genoa, the birth-place 
of Columbus, longer than simply to take lunch, and see 
the great walls that surround this interesting city. 

The evening brought us to Turin, where we spent the 
night and part of a day. This we found to be a city 
of marked beauty and great attractiveness. Its cleanli- 
ness is a marvel. Its public squares and gardens, 
adorned with fountains and flowers artistically arranged, 
are unsurpassed anywhere. The city is bright, and pre- 
sents every appearance of thrift and wealth. At night 
it is brilliant with gaslight, and puts on the appearance 
of a great holiday. Nightly there are numerous open 
concerts given in the large squares, an abundance of fine 



178 A NEW PATH 

music, as well as of wine and beer; bat with all, the 
best order prevails. There are those who say that Turin 
is the finest city in Italy. Whilst there is so much to 
commend, yet it was here that we fell into the hands of a 
hotel man who proved himself a first-class rogue ; but 
we will always have the satisfaction of knowing that he 
did not succeed in his roguery upon us. When you go 
to Turin, avoid the Hotel Tromhetta. 

But the hour arrived for our final departure from Italy 
over the Alps to Geneva. This time we go by rail, not 
by diligence. After leaving Turin we had many indica- 
tions of getting into a better country. For many miles 
we had the river Po on our right, and the far-off snowy 
peaks of the Alps to our left. Near midday we found 
ourselves in the midst of the sublimest mountain scenery, 
and much refreshed by a cooler atmosphere. A little 
farther on, and we passed through many tunnels ; but now 
we reached the mouth of the famous Mont Cenis tunnel. 
It is- five miles in length, and required twenty-eight min- 
utes to pass through it. It has a double track, and is 
well lighted by means of large lamps hung at close inter- 
vals. Its masonry is a wonder for beauty and strength. 
Twelve years ago this railroad and the completion of this 
tunnel were celebrated as the great uniting link between 
Italy and Switzerland. 

And now we are in Switzerland, at Modena, where we 
had lunch, and our luggage examined. A short ride 
brought us into the Savoy country of the Alps, the most 
elevated tract in Europe. Here we saw signs of thrift 
and industry. The people seemed happy as they gath- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 179 

ered their wheat and other various grains from the moun- 
tain sides, and their abundant crop of haj from the 
beautiful, dark-green meadows. An air of repose and 
quiet reigns amid these beautiful mountains and green 
valleys. The scenery is truly sublime. Here and there 
nestle the quiet villages, and always conspicuous amid 
the humble homes is the little church with its white steeple 
pointing heavenward. The people are honest, intelligent, 
religious, and enthusiastically patriotic. To our left we 
passed the great mountain range which buried at its feet 
a large number of villages some years ago. There stands 
the long range of bare rocks, a perpetual monument to 
the many hundreds of poor Savoyards who sleep beneath 
its earth and rocks. Toward the close of the day we 
reached the charming lake Bourged, a sheet of water 
unsurpassed in beauty, sleeping quietly in the bosom of 
the great mountains. This lake is seven miles in length 
and from one to two in breadth. We almost made a com- 
plete circuit of it. Next we reached the valley of the 
Rhine, and passing over large tracts of meadow land, we 
crossed the Rhone just after sunset. Soon the darkness 
of the night overtook us, and at 11 p. m. we arrived in 
Geneva, and soon were quartered at the Hotel and Pen- 
sion Flaegel. 

After the rapid and constant traveling of the last fif- 
teen days, Geneva proved a most delightful resting-place 
for three days. It is a beautiful city of fifty thousand 
inhabitants, and much admired by strangers. It is mostly 
well built, and parts of it remind one somewhat of Paris. 
Its population is lively and gay. While amusements 



180 A NEW PATH 

were made the order of the day by many on Sunday, 
yet many people attended religious worship. We 
spent the quietest and most home-like Lord's day in 
Geneva of all such days on the Continent. We attended 
the American English church, where we heard a good 
practical sermon, and much enjoyed the service. This is 
a church erected and kept up by the Episcopal Church 
of our own country. 

Greneva is the great emporium of European watches 
and jewelry manufacture. Five thousand people are 
employed in this business, and as many as one hundred 
thousand watches are turned out yearly. Its lake is un- 
surpassed in beauty, and is the largest in Switzerland. 
The river Rhone passes out of the lake directly through 
the city, and rushes with wonderful speed. Both sides 
of the stream are adorned with fine quays and houses, 
the hills forming a beautiful background. The water, 
like that of the lake, is remarkably clear, the smallest 
pebbles being visible at a depth of fifteen feet, whilst 
great quantities of fish dart about in the rapid current. 

The confluence of the rivers Rhone and Arve, a short 
distance below the city, is a very remarkable sight. The 
Rhone, rushing with arrowy speed from the blue lake, is 
joined by the Arve, a turbid stream from the Chamouny 
glaciers. At the point of junction it is possible to dip 
one hand in the warm water of the Rhone, and the other 
in the Arve, as cold as ice. The two rivers run together 
in the same bed for many miles without mingliLg — an 
emblem of the good and the evil, the clean and the un- 
clean. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 181 

We did not forget to see the house where John Calvin 
lived. In his day, no doubt, it was a mansion of consid- 
erable note ; at present it is a very humble, out-of-the- 
way place. 

We could see Mont Blanc in the distance lifting his 
sublime heights covered with snow, but had not time to 
approach it. 

In closing this chapter we wish to say that of all the 
cities we visited in Europe, of few have we more pleasant 
recollections than of Geneva. 



CHAPTER XX. 

FROM SWITZERLAND INTO GERMANY — THE LAND OF LUTHER — 
DARMSTADT — A MISFORTUNE — FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN — 
EISENACH — URSULA COTTA — THE LUTHER HOUSE — GERMAN 
HOSPITALITY— THE WARTBURG — THE LUTHER ROOM — THE 
FAMOUS INKSTAND STORY. 

IT was with some reluctance that we bade adieu 
to Geneva, one of the loveliest places in the old 
world ; but knowing that we were going amongst a people 
and scenes still more interesting to us, we were soon 
reconciled to the change, and started alone on a tour of 
twelve hundred miles, which would embrace a number 
of Luther places we had not visited when in Germany a 
few months previous. 

We left Geneva at noon for Frankfort, and greatly en- 
joyed our journey. A mere pen picture, however well 
drawn, could give but a very faint idea of the lovely 
scenery which lies along the lake of Geneva. For many 
miles the railway skirts the high shores of the lake with 
its waters in full view. Charmed and delighted, the eye 
feasts on beautiful green hills and clustering vineyards, 
white villas and blooming gardens. Nothing that we have 
seen in Europe equalled this in loveliness. Leaving the 
shores of the lake, we passed through a rich grazing 
country, its hills and meadows robed in the deepest 
green. Quiet and perfect content marked every cottage 

(182) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 183 

and hamlet, and we concluded again that the Swiss must 
be a happy people. 

It was late in the evening when we reached Bale, a 
border city of Switzerland, but our time would not per- 
mit us to stop, and we continued our journey all night, 
reaching Darmstadt (Germany) early the next morning. 
Here we met with what seemed a misfortune. The 
train stopping for five minutes, we stepped out on the 
platform, but the train moving slowly, we attempted to 
re-enter our car. The train despatcher, standing close by, 
remarked to us that " der zug " — the train — would return 
again in a few moments. Having waited as we thought 
long enough, and not seeing our train return, we fol- 
lowed two Frenchmen tp another part of the depot, hop- 
ing to find our car there. We failed, however, in find- 
ing it, and by the time we returned to our former place 
our train had backed in, and we were just in time to see 
it go out at the other end of the depot, carrying with it 
all our baggage. The gaze after that train was surely 
earnest, but useless. At the same time our friend, the 
train despatcher, who no doubt greatly pitied us, came 
running in full speed, and in a very excited manner ex- 
claimed, " My dear Sir, I thought you understood what I 
told you!" We replied; "Yes, Sir, we did, but we 
became uneasy and followed two French gentlemen over 
to the other side of the depot, and by that missed our 
car." " What a pity ! What a pity ! " he said, " One 
should never follow a Frenchman, only to stick him in 
the back with a bayonet." Our friend was very kind, 
and began to comfort us by assuring us that our baggage 



184 A NEW PATH 

was not lost. He sent the necessary telegram on to 
Frankfort, and when we reached there, a few hours later, 
we found our effects all " safe and sound." 

Being delayed at Darmstadt for 'two hours, we had 
the pleasure of witnessing a soldiers' parade. There 
were several regiments of infantry and one of cavalry. 
For soldierly appearance, fine uniforms, and general good 
equipments, we never saw anything to surpass these men 
and officers. We thought, no wonder they were too much 
for the French. An hour's ride brought us to Frankfort. 
With this city we were greatly pleased. It numbers 
nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants, and is distin- 
guished for its wealth and industries. Here we have the 
old and the new of Germany. The business sections of 
the city are very fine, the streets being broad and clean, 
abounding in stores of superior elegance. There are a 
number of private streets on which are located magnifi- 
cent vilhs and mansions, surrounded by gardens and the 
finest floral displays. Then, on the other hand, there 
are narrow, winding streets with curious gabled buildings 
of the olden times. The people are bright, of refined 
and intellectual appearance. 

Like all European cities, Frankfort has its full share 
of monuments and places of historic interest. We have 
space only to name the famous monument of Gutenberg, 
the inventor of printing. It is very elaborate and finely 
executed. Near this, in the Goethe Platz, is Schwan- 
thaler's monument of Goethe, this being the city in which 
he vfas born. The house, which bears an inscription re- 
cording the birth of the poet on the 28th of August, 1794, 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 185 

is still pointed out. We also noticed the memorial on the 
wall of the house from one of whose windows Luther 
preached to the people whilst remaining here over night 
on his way to the Diet at Worms. It consists of a finely- 
executed bust of Luther, encircled by the text from 
which he preached. 

After paying a hurried visit to the annual exposition 
and the wonderful Panorama painting, by Prof. Brown, 
of the siege and battle of Sedan, all our time was con- 
sumed, and w§ took the train amid rain and storm, bound 
for Eisenach. The country between Frankfort and 
Eisenach is rich in agricultural resources, and much of it 
very beautiful. There is no waste land, every spot be- 
ing utilized by the thri^fty German. 

Having some time before dark, after our arrival at 
Eisenach, we improved it by seeing something of this 
noted town. Of course Luther and Luther's work are 
uppermost in a Lutheran's mind in coming to this place. 
Accordingly we started from our hotel, Rinker, for the 
Luther Houbs, in which Ursula Cotta gave the sweet- 
voiced Luther a home when a student in the cloister 
school of Eisenach (1498-1501). The House is quaint 
and leaning, as if burdened with great age, which it cer- 
tainly is, for it is said to have been erected in 1200. It 
is built of stone with smoothly plastered walls, three and 
a half stories high, and has a cone-shaped roof, with two 
dormer windows. The house stands on one of the cor- 
ners of the market square. After considerable rapping, 
we were kindly admitted into the house by a very aged 
couple who took great delight in showing us the apart- 



186 A NEW PATH 

ments on the second floor of the house, occupied by Lu- 
ther during his student life at the cloister school. We 
patiently listened to the well known stories in Luther's 
life which were narrated, chief among which was the one 
about his singing for bread on the streets of Eisenach. 

We were taken into two rooms, both small, one occu- 
pied by the boy-student as a study, the other as a bed 
room. The furniture, some of which the custodian de- 
clared to be the identical articles of Luther's time, con- 
sists of several three-legged, straight-backed chairs, a 
study table, a wooden water jug, a candlestick w^hich is a 
knot of wood with a hole bored in ; a water-mug, shaped 
like a bear sitting on his haunches ; also a Bible dated 
1522, and some autograph letters. Adjoining this is 
Luther's bed room, which contains nothing but a small 
bedstead, very plain. If this is the furniture used by 
Luther it was certainly very humble, and our college boys 
would murmur if they had no better, though some of 
them may not turn out to be as great men as Luther was. 

In accordance with a previous invitation, we called to 
see Prof. Schmidt, a teacher in the gymnasium of Eise- 
nach. He had been a traveling companion from Inter- 
laken to Lucerne, and had cordially invited us to come 
and see him when we visited Eisenach. We embraced 
the opportunity, and were most heartily welcomed. The 
Professor introduced us to his entire family, and we spent 
a most delightful evening. Of course the hospitalities of 
German life were extended, and we were sumptuously 
entertained. We soon felt at home. Many questions 
were asked about our wonderful America. The cordial 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 187 

welcome, the sincere politeness, the confidence reposed in 
us as a perfect stranger, deeply impressed us with the 
honest., noble, and generous character of the Germans. 
When the time for retiring to our hotel arrived, the Profes- 
sor would not permit us to go by ourself but took us by the 
arm and accompained us. We shall always have pleasant 
recollections of our visit to Prof. Schmidt at Eisenach. 

The next morning, August 17th, was ushered in amid 
heavy rain, but it was the day set for an excursion to the 
Wartburg, and we faltered not in our purpose, and 7 
a. m. found us on the way on foot, the distance being one 
and a half miles. The road is excellent, leading most of 
the way through a dense forest. After reaching the 
outskirts of the town,\ we passed some beautiful villas, 
while high hills and delightful valleys greeted us on 
every side. The road becomes very steep, until the 
first level is reached ; passing over this, there is another 
and still steeper ascent, on the highest point of which 
stands the castle — the famous Wartburg, " beautiful for 
situation," and certainly a joy to every Lutheran. The 
castle was built in 1067, and stands six hundred feet 
above Eisenach and thirteen hundred above the sea. It 
will be remembered that on the 4th of May, 1521, as 
Luther, in company with Amsdorf and his brother James, 
was returning to his home from the Diet at Worms, he 
was captured by a body of armed knights in the Thu- 
ringian Forest, Luther alone being made prisoner, and 
was conducted to the Castle of Wartburg. Here he dis- 
covered the whole aifair to have been managed by the 
order of his friend, the Elector of Saxony, who was pre- 



188 A NEW PATH 

sent at the Diet when Luther left. Although the Em- 
peror Charles V. had given Luther assurance of safe 
conduct, a decree for his arrest was instantly sent after 
him, and his sentence of death decided on. The Elec- 
tor's band reached him before the warrant of arrest, and 
he was carried in secret to the Wartburg, where he re- 
mained for ten months, and was known by the name of 
Knight George. The solitude which he here enjoyed 
truly proved 

" An isle of calm amid the sea of life, 
A Patmos, where the harbored soul retired 
From earth's loud shock, to feel the hush of heaven." 

Arriving at the ramparts of the castle, we were di- 
rected by the soldier sentry who guards the entrance, to 
the Ritterhoff, where we procured a ticket of admission, 
and then passed in over the heavy drawbridge, in com- 
pany with three others and a guide, through the gate 
into the court-yard. It was through this passage that 
the captured monk was taken by the friendly hands 
which protected him. 

Our guide took us first into the chapel, where it is said 
Luther preached during his captivity. (Our friend Prof. 
Schmidt says it is not so.) Then we passed into the 
large Music Hall, where the celebrated Sanger contests 
were held as early as 1207 ; thence into a still larger 
room, the great Festal Hall, of most beautiful construc- 
tion, having been rebuilt in 1862. We were also taken 
into the museum, which contains many relics of the Thirty 
Years' war, and the armor worn by Luther's friendly cap- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 189 

tors, and that of the Electors Frederick and John. The 
last but not least in interest was the Lutherstuhe (the 
Luther Room). This is about fifteen feet square, and 
about as homeless and bare as can be well imagined. It 
contains what is said to be some of Luther's furniture ; 
the bedstead panelled over the entire top, the edges of 
the posts and rails being bound with zinc to prevent van- 
dalism; his chair, a most uncomfortable one, a small 
book-case on his table, which contains some autograph 
letters bj Luther, dated 1533-1539. Also his stove, 
pyramid shaped, his iron traveling chest, his parents' 
chest of wood, his foot rest, the coat of mail he is said to 
have worn, some pictures of himself, his parents, and 
Melanchthon. Of cci^rse the place on the wall marked by 
the famous inkstand is very conspicious. Luther having 
defeated his foes with pen and ink, thought he would try 
the ink alone on the devil, and, seizing the inkstand, he 
hurled it violently at the head of his Satanic Majesty, 
hitting his — imagination and the wall, making a 
greater impression on the latter than Satan did on the 
former. The spot is quite large, much of the plas- 
ter having been picked from the wall by relic-seekers. 
It is now protected agamst such vandalism. 

We feel reluctant to break the illusion of beautiful 
fancies that have been woven about this old and almost 
classic story, but fidelity to history compels us to do it. 
Luther himself never said anything about this reputed 
inkstand battle, and no one else could know what took 
place in the privacy of his lonely night study. ^' In 
the absence of any allusion by Luther himself to this 
9* 



190 A NEW PATH 

marvellous vision and conflict, we are obliged to reject 
the story itself as fictitious, and the various theories and 
speculations about it as the idle dream of fancy." 
Doubtless the story arose from the fact that in the ac- 
tivity of his imagination Luther attributed everything 
unfavorable in temporal or spiritual affairs to the direct 
personal agency of the devil, just as he blamed the 
envious Satan for revealing the secret of his presence at 
the Wartburg. 

While there prevails considerable doubt as to the genu- 
ineness of the furniture and relics here, yet after all, the 
room and the window with its many little panes of glass 
in lead, and its small opening, are genuine. The window 
opens in the middle, like a double door, and looks out 
upon the Thuringian forest. Here, in this little room 
on the highest story of the castle, amid lonely solitude, 
Luther watched and prayed, wrought and contended. 
Here he was led by the mind of the Spirit to understand 
and fathom the mysteries of the divine word, which 
enabled him to give to the world that matchless transla- 
tion of the New Testament into the German language. 

Besides the translation of the entire New Testament, 
he translated some of the Psalms into German, and wrote 
a number of important works, all in ten months' time. 
What a vast amount of literary labor this was for one 
man to accomplish in so short a time ! Were it not so 
well authenticated by history, one would not be inclined 
to believe it possible. 

Here, in his meditations, he watched the stars, the sun 
and the moon in their silent marches. The blue moun- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 191 

tains that surround the Wartburg. with occasional breaks 
in the range, opening up the beautiful plains of Thuringia, 
that golden vale, which the Count of Mansfeld preferred 
to the Promised Land ; the fresh and balmy air about the 
lofty eminences ; the singing of the birds ; his lonely iso- 
lation from social diversions ; all seemed to lift Luther 
above the world, and to bring him into nearer communion 
with heaven and Him who inhabiteth eternity. Luther 
was accustomed to call the Wartburg his Patmos, from 
its silence and solitude, and because he was there "for 
the word of God, and the testimony of Jesus Christ." 
And thus the castle of Wartburg stands immortalized, in 
history and Christian memory, as Luther's Patmos. 

"Die Statte die ein gtiter Mensch betratt 
1st eingeweilit ; uacli hundert Yaliren kliiigt, 
Sein wort und seine Tliat dem Enkel Wieder." 

"The place once trodden by a righteous man 
Is sacred ; centuries may revolve, 
And still the echo of his voice and deeds 
Is heard." 

It was with reluctance that we withdrew from that 
humble chamber, once the abode of the greatest man 
since the days of the Apostle Paul. With lingering steps 
and frequent halts, looking up at the ancient fortress, and 
the man in our thoughts who has forever made it mem- 
orable, we continued our way down through the lovely 
Marienthal, happy and thankful that we were permitted 
to visit this place, so full of sweet and blessed memories 
of Luther. Truly this was a red-letter day in our jour- 
ney through Germany. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

THE LAND OF LUTHER — MORE ABOUT EISENACH — WITTENBERG — 
LUTHER's home — THE CASTLE CHURCH — LUTHER'S GRAVE 
AND MELANCHTHON's— BRONZE STATUES — MELANCHTHON's 
HOUSE — THE SLEEPING DEAD ABOUT THE STADT KIRCHE 
(city church) — BURNING OF THE PAPAL BULL — THE WITTEN- 
BERG SEMINARY IN THE AUGUSTEUM — DR. SCHMIEDER — PEN- 
PICTURE OF LUTHER. 

BEFORE taking final leave of Eisenach, we called on 
the Rev. Dr. John Marbach, Oberpfarrer and Su- 
perintendent of the city. We were met at the door by a 
bright young "dame" who conducted us up stairs to the 
Doctor's study, where we found him busily at work over 
some manuscript, writing at his table, and at the same 
time drawing inspiration from a long-stemmed pipe. Im- 
mediately upon our entrance the Doctor, rising from 
his chair, earnestly but politely said, '• Wer stehet vor 
mir?" (Who stands before me?) Well, we mustered 
our best German, apologizing for it at the same time, and 
told him. We were kindly invited to be seated, and 
soon felt as if we had met an old acquaintance, the Doctor 
being so cordial and friendly. He asked a great many 
questions about the Lutheran church in America, and 
was deeply interested in all we had to say on the subject. 
He informed us that he had a church in his district where 
a Lutheran clergyman by the name of Wilson preached 

(192) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 193 

English. This was as surprising as new to us, but at the 
same time gratifying. The Doctor is yet a young man, 
possibly forty-five years old, of splendid presence, in 
manner reminding us much of our worthy Rev. Dr. Mann^ 
of Philadelphia. When about to take our departure, the 
Doctor took us heartily by the hand, and sincerely 
thanked us for our call. It was here as in every other 
instance where we called on German pastors, we received 
a cordial welcome and bad a most delightful interview. 

With many pleasant impressions we took our departure 
from Eisenach that afternoon, and were soon on our way 
to Wittenberg, passing through Gotha, Erfurt, Weimar, 
and Halle. Having been informed by our German 
friends that the Luther relics at Erfurt were but few, we 
continued our journey, deeply interested in the country 
through which we were passing. On our right and left 
were many eminences, crowned with ruined castles, abid- 
ing monuments to the high-born individuals who, long ago, 
lorded it over the common people. But those days have 
passed away, and the people live in quietness and peace 
in their humble villages, till their fields, and reap their 
harvests in cheerful trust. 

It would be difficult to describe our feelings, as late in 
the afternoon the train approached Wittenberg. Yonder 
to our left we see the towers and steeples so often pic- 
tured in our mind even from childhood, and soon the city 
we desired above all others to see, because immortalized 
by the greatest man since the days of Paul, stretched out 
before us. It was seven o'clock in the evening when the 
train stopped at the station, a short distance outside the 



194 A NEW PATH 

city gate. The heavy rains had ceased, and the bright sun 
bathed in golden light the tops of the houses as we rode 
through the street in the one-horse omnibus, jogging 
slowly toward the little inn. Hotel Adler. 

After "abendessen" (supper), we took a stroll through 
the town, and everyAvhere w^ere signs of great age. At 
present, Wittenberg has a population of twelve thousand, 
which includes the regiment of soldiers stationed there. 
It was once a walled town, but these are now being re- 
moved, new streets laid out, and new buildings are going 
up. Many of the old streets are narrow, but well paved. 

We retired weary and jaded to our room, but thankful 
and glad to sleep in Wittenberg ; though by reason of the 
rapid current of new ideas and fresh images of the past, 
sleep was borne away, and much of the night passed in 
wakefulness. 

The first place visited the next; day was the Augus- 
teum, the former Augustinian monastery — where Luther 
resided in his unmarried state — and part of which was 
given to him by the Elector for a residence when he be- 
came a married man. The building has a wide front on 
the street, and you enter through an arched gateway into 
an open court, around the four sides of which the 
building extends. Passing through the courtyard, which 
contains some trees and a garden, you reach the portion 
of the building which Luther occupied. The occupants 
of the old home, knowing my wishes — for daily visitors 
come to see the place — at once conducted me up a narrow 
winding stairway of stone to the second floor where 
Luther lived, The first is something of an ante-room, 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 195 

which contains some oil paintings of Luther and Fred- 
erick the Wise. From this I was taken into a large 
room possibly thirty feet square. Here Luther spent 
most of his life whilst Professor in Wittenberg from 1508 
to 1546. It contains some of the original family furniture 
and a few relics. In one corner, in its old place, stands 
the tall stove, elaborately ornamented with reliefs of the 
evangelists. Around it the household drew together 
in the long harsh winters of Saxony. In another part 
stands the table at which he sat and wrote. On the wall 
hangs Luther's seal, of his own design, under glass cover, 
and is formed as follows : black cross, red heart, white 
rose, blue field, encircled with gold, and the following 
couplet connected witji it: 

" Das Christen Herz auf Rosen geliet 
Wenn's mitten under'm Kreuzen steliet." 

One of the most unique relics in this room is the auto- 
graph of Peter the Great, in chalk, encased in glass, over 
the door-frame. Two windows look out into the court- 
yard. The glass is circular, about the size of the bottom 
of a common tin-cup, and set in lead. At one of the 
windows are two raised seats facing each other, where 
Doctor Martin and Frau Kathe often sat looking out into 
the open yard, where Melanchthon, and Bugenhagen, 
and Jonas, and Luther himself, had many a stroll and 
chat together. What wonderful work that busy pen did, 
in that now cheerless and solitary chamber ! What con- 
versations were held there! What scenes of domestic 
joy and sorrow were witnessed by ^hese walls ! 



196 A NEW PATH 

In another room we were shown some fine needle- 
work, wrought by the industrious and skillful hands of 
the good wife Katherina. Here are also her beads in a 
glass case, which she faithfully counted when yet a 
Roman Catholic. In a small cupboard are the frag- 
ments of Luther's drinking goblet, which Peter the 
Great, not being allowed to carry away (in 1712), 
dashed on the floor and broke. In another place is also 
a beautiful cup, of laurel wood, which Frederick the 
Wise gave Luther. 

Next we passed into Luther's lecture room, where he 
taught thousands the pure word of God, and by his sound 
doctrine infused new life and hope into the church. This 
is a large room, seventy-five feet in length and forty in 
width. There remains the original platform, with lecture- 
stand and book-rack. In the rear on the wall hangs the 
best painting known of Luther, by Lucas Cranach; also 
portraits of his wife and parents. 

After we had enjoyed with supreme satisfaction the 
quiet old home, and procured a number of portraits of 
the place, we re-crossed the court-yard, and entered an- 
other department of the Augusteum, which is used as a 
theological seminary. We were politely admitted into 
the lecture-room on the first floor by the grandson of the 
senior professor, where a "forlesung" (lecture) was 
•going on. One of the students read a thesis on Mate- 
rialism, and Prof. Dorner, a son of the distinguished the- 
ologian, afterwards lectured on the same subject. 

Leaving the old University building, we walked down 
the "College strasse" (college street) to the Schloss- 



A CEOS S AN OLD FIELD. 197 

kirche (castle church). It stands at the end of the 
street, close against the infantry barracks. Upon the 
original doors of this church, Luther nailed the ninety- 
five theses, October 31, 151T, which startled the world; 
but durino; a bombardment of Wittenberg; bv the Aus- 
trians in 1760, the doors were burned. King Frederick 
William re-placed them with bronze doors, bearing the 
original Latin text of the theses. 

Standing by this church, we seemed to see the burly 
Reformer, as he came to the spot three hundred and 
sixty-five years ago, with the immortal theses in one 
hand and his hammer in the other. He does not dream 
himself what results are to come from that simple deed. 
With sturdy strokes he sends home the nails, until the 
ring of that hammer begins to startle Germany out of the 
slumber of the Dark Ages, and its sound is still ringing 
round and round the world, until every kindred and 
tongue shall confess and rejoice in the God of our sal- 
vation. We enter the church, of which once Luther was 
the pastor, the bright and modest Saxon girl, daughter of 
the sacristan, being our guide. It is a very plain build- 
ing, with an unfinished appearance. Its walls are bare, 
with double galleries, and an arched ceiling. It is now 
the garrison church, and services are held here each Lord's 
day. We now move in silence a few steps further on, 
and our guide, takes, at the floor, an iron ring in her 
finger, lifts a wooden cover, and the brief inscription, 
in raised letters on a metal plate, tells us that all that 
remains on earth of the mortal part of Luther lies at 
our feet. Here we stand and gaze and reverently 



198 A NEW PATH 

meditate. Here sleeps the mighty dead. Here repose 
the mortal remains of the mightiest man since Paul of 
Tarsus. " The eyes that shone in the fire of purpose, 
the lips whose utterances were bolts of lightning, the 
heart which beat in strength of courage and tenderness 
of love, the foot which planted it self in the outward 
expression of immutable resolve, the hands which were 
so often raised to God in omnipotent prayer, and put 
forth toward man in pleading for Christ, and in bless- 
ings to the needy — all that is left of these is here — a 
little ashes." But the true Luther, of whom all these 
were but organs, lives forever. The true Luther is 
buried nowhere, but is immortal in the pure faith, and in 
its graces world-wide. 

A few steps to the other side, and another wooden 
cover discloses the plate that rests over the remains of 
Philip Melanchthon. Here he sleeps under the same 
central pavement of the church. The partnership was 
never broken. Loving in their life, in death they were 
not divided. United in life, and united in glory, their 
bodies sleep near each other, waiting for the resurrection. 
There may they sleep in peace, until the angel trumpet 
shall sound the day of resurrection and of the endless 
liberty of the children of God. 

"The year after Luther's death, Wittenberg was filled 
with the troops of Charles V., many of whom were full 
of intense hate to the great Reformer. One of the sol- 
diers gave Luther's effigies in this church two stabs with 
his dagger. The Spaniards earnestly solicited their 
Emperor to destroy the tomb and dig up and burn the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 199 

remains of Luther, as this second Huss could not now 
be burned alive. To this diabolical proposition the Em- 
peror sternly replied : ' My work with Luther is done ; 
he has another Judge, whose sphere I may not invade. 
I war with the living, not with the dead.' And when 
he found that the effort was not dropped to bring about 
this sacrilegious deed, he gave orders that any violation 
of Luther's tomb should be followed by the death of 
the offender." (^Krauth-'s Conservative Reformation^ p. 
44.) 

Next we proceed to the altar, and there are two large 
brass plates inserted in the floor which cover the mortal 
remains of two of earth's greatest princes, and worthy 
champions of the Reformation — the Electors Frederick 
the Wise and John the Constant. Before leaving the 
church we ascended the pulpit and stood for a moment in 
the place where the great Luther so often stood and 
preached the everlasting gospel. Time is precious, and 
now we are in the market square of the town, where 
stand two statues of bronze, probably forty feet high, and 
about a hundred feet apart. One of them, erected six- 
teen years ago, represents a slender figure, robed in a 
gown, with a countenance almost emaciated, and wearing 
a saintly expression. Upon the pedestal is inscribed, 
"Endeavoring to keep the unity of the spirit in the bond 
of peace." On the other side is written, "I Avill speak 
of thy testimonies also before kings, and will not be 
ashamed." That slender, seraphic figure is Philip Me- 
lanchthon, who was the gentle and beloved Jonathan to 
the burly Psalmist and warrior who stands on the twin 



200 A NEW PATH 

pedestal not far away. A genuine Teuton is that robust 
character, planted firmly in his bronze shoes, and holding 
his finger to the open page of God's Word. The short, 
taurine neck and heavy jaw mark the holy obstinacy of 
the man. The inscriptions on the pedestal are exceed- 
ingly happy. Underneath the open Bible is inscribed 
(as if Luther himself were just speaking it from his 
bronze lips): "Glaubet an das Evangelium" (believe 
the gospel). The east side of the monument bears 
Luther's famous words: "If this be God's work it will 
endure; if it be man's it will perish." On the west side 
is carved the immortal motto : " Ein feste Burg ist 
unser Grott.^^ 

The partnership of the two great leaders of the Refor- 
mation, which is marked by the similarity of their monu- 
ments, holds good all through the toAvn. 

Proceeding up the "College strasse," we came upon 
a three-story house of rather modern appearance outside, 
bearing the inscription in German, " In this house Philip 
Melanchthon lived and labored and died." We entered 
the house, and were conducted up stairs into the room 
where Melanchthon died. The only furniture left is a 
large chest, in the wall a small cupboard, near which 
hangs a likeness of him, dated 1526. Thence we walked 
out into the garden, and sat ander some trees where Me- 
lanchthon often walked and rested and meditated. 

" Into the narroAv hallway of this house the jolly face 
of Luther must have been thrust many a time, when 
some new idea was to be discussed with brother Philip, 
or when some very racy scandal about Tetzel or Eck had 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 201 

come to brother Martin's ears. With many a boisterous 
laugh that house has rung. No doubt of it, for there 
was infinite fun underneath Luther's well-lined ribs. 
There must have been almost hourly intercourse between 
the two men, for their homes were only a few steps apart. 

But now we proceed to the end of this street, and a 
little beyond the Elster gate, where it had been the cus- 
tom to burn articles infected with the plague, and see 
the place, where, in sight of the university buildings, 
Luther burned the Papal bull, on the 10th of December, 
1520. The blaze of the burning "bull" was pretty 
distinctly visible from the Vatican. A large oak tree 
marks the spot, surrounded by a beautiful grass-plat 
and a few flowers, all^inclosed by a neat iron fence. 

In the Ratlins House we saw what is said to be Lu- 
ther's original clock, and a number of interesting relics. 
From the tower of the Stadt Kirehe^ we had a fine view 
of the scenery about Wittenberg, and it reminded us 
somewhat of the view one gets from the cupola of the 
seminary at Gettysburg. 

We now retrace our steps and go and walk about the 
old Stadt Kirelie^ in which Luther often preached, 
close to the market square. Here we seemed to be in 
the presence of Luther's old neighbors, for many of his 
intimate friends and brother professors lie buried under 
this church or close to its walls. All around the outer 
wall of the building stand their moss-grown tablets, with 
epitaphs barely legible. Some of these worthies of the 
sixteenth century are represented in queer effigies of 
stone, either clad in armor or in scholastic robes. Here 



202 A NEW PATH 

is a head broken off, there an arm is missing. Time has 
dealt roughly with these stout old protesters ; but to us, 
that morning, they seemed to be living yet, and their 
spirits still haunt the ancient church in which they once 
crowded to hear brother Martin denounce the " man of 
sin." Nay, Luther himself seems to abide there still. 
All Wittenberg is full of his spiritual presence, and as 
we looked out of our windoAv that bright September 
morning, we thought we could see him, walking with 
lumbering gait down yonder College Strasse, with a roll 
of his MS. German Bible under his arm. He walks 
across the market-place, stops to salute Brother Philip 
with a Guten Tag^ and then vanishes out of sight. 

Before leaving Wittenberg we again visited the Au- 
gusteum, upon invitation of Dr. Schmieder, Oberkon- 
sistorialrath, the senior professor of the theological fac- 
ulty in the seminary here. The venerable Doctor 
received us most cordially, and welcomed us to Witten- 
berg and his study. He is now seventy-eight years of 
age, of small stature, and in manner and courtesy 
reminded us much of our sainted Dr. C. F. Schaeffer. 
Father Schmieder said it gave him the greatest pleasure 
to meet with Lutheran clergymen from America. He 
said he had heard of Dr. Krauth's visit to Wittenberg 
the summer previous, but was sorry he did not get to see 
him. He made many inquiries about the Lutheran 
church in this country, and was deeply interested in what 
we had to say. He presented us with several pamphlets 
giving a full history of the present theological depart- 
ment of the seminary in the Augusteum. It was with 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 203 

reluctance that we took our departure from so delightful 
and saintly a man as Dr. Schmieder. 

And now we must leave Wittenberg, having for more 
than a day walked in Luther's accustomed paths. We 
go with joy and love, sweet memories and inspiring hopes. 
We go J thankful that in the good providence of God we 
were permitted to see the place where the mighty Luther 
lived, loved and labored, and whence have radiated the 
forces which have changed our whole modern world, and 
have built up a spiritual empire before whose moral glory 
all the pomp of war and of state fades away. 

We cannot more appropriately close this chapter than 
quote part of the sainted Dr. Krauth's pen-picture of 
Luther, in the Conseryative Reformation (pp. 86-87). 
" The greatness of some men only makes us feel that 
though they did well, others in their place might have 
done just as they did ; Luther had that exceptional great- 
ness, which convinces the world that he alone could have 
done the work." * * * "-He was not a mere mountain- 
top, catching a little earlier the beams which, by their 
own course, would soon have found the valleys ; but 
rather, by the divine ordination under which he rose, like 
the sun itself, without which the light on mountain and 
valley would have been but a starlight or moonlight." 
* * * Luther "has monuments in marble and bronze, 
medals in silver and gold ; but his noblest monument is 
the best love of the best hearts, and the highest, purest 
impression of his image has been left in the souls of re- 
generated nations. He was the best teacher of freedom and 
of loyalty. He has made the righteous throne stronger, and 



204 ' A NEW PATH 

the innocent cottage happier." * * * "He was tried bj 
deep sorrow and brilliant fortune ; but whether lured by 
the subtlest flattery or assailed by the powers of hell, 
tempted with the mitre or threatened with the stake, he 
came off more than conqueror of all." * * * "He tore 
up the mightiest evils by the root, but shielded with his 
own life the tenderest bud of good." * * * "Faith- 
inspired, he was faith-inspiring. Great in acts as he 
was great in thought, proving himself fire with fire, in- 
ferior eyes grew great by his example, and put on the 
dauntless spirit of resolution." * * * 

" Living under thousands of jealous and hating eyes, 
in the broadest light of day, the testimony of enemies but 
fixes the result ; that his faults were those of a nature of 
the most consummate grandeur and fullness, faults more 
precious than the virtues of the common great. Four 
potentates ruled the mind of Europe in the Reformation: 
the Emperor, Erasmus, the Pope, and Luther. The pope 
wanes, Erasmus is little, the emperor is nothing, but 
Luther abides as a power for all time. His image casts 
itself upon the current of ages, as the mountain mirrors 
itself in the river that winds at its foot — the mighty fix- 
ing itself immutably upon the changing." 



CHAPTER XXII. 

BERLIN — THE CAPITAL OF PRUSSIA— "UNTEE, DEN LINDEN " — 
THE PALACES — THIERGARTEN — FREDERICK WILLIAM AND 
QUEEN LOUISA — OPPRESSIVE MILITARY SYSTEM — GERMAN 
UNIVERSITY — BEER AND WINE DRINKING — THE GERMAN PEO- 
PLE — AN INCIDENT — PRUSSIAN-FRANCO LOVE. 

LESS than two hours' car riding from Wittenberg 
brought us to Berlin — the great capital of Prussia. 
The district of country between these two cities is a perfect 
garden in point of cultivation ; the abundant harvest that 
was being gathered being proof of a rich and productive 
soil. We arrived in Berlin in the evening after dark, 
but had some time for an extended stroll, by gaslight. 
We were at once impressed with the quiet and perfect 
order that prevailed on the streets. In all respects this 
is a fine city, and has many attractions. It is solidly 
built, and it is said to be the determination of the present 
Emperor to make Berlin rival Paris as the most attrac- 
tive city of Europe. It will, however, take King Wil- 
liam longer to accomplish such an undertaking than it did 
to rival Paris in the late w^ar, and humble that city before 
his siege guns. But judging from the many improve- 
ments that are going on in many parts of the city, it is 
evident that it will be still a more elegant and attractive 
metropolis than it is at present. It has many broad and 
delightful streets, with many handsome and imposing 
dwellings. Its streets are well paved and kept very 
10 (205) 



206 A NEW PATH 

clean. The houses, as in Paris, are largely built of light 
colored stone, or of brick covered with plaster to resem- 
ble it. The citj contains many fine business streets, full 
of elegant shops and stores. 

The most prominent objects of attraction to the stranger 
are the splendid palaces and other buildings located on 
both sides of the principal street, called " TJyitei' den 
Linden^ We must confess to some disappointment as 
regards the lindens of this street, they being few in 
number and small in size. Other parts hardly came up 
to our expectations. We know the street is considered 
one of the finest in Europe. It is one mile long, extend- 
ing from the Royal Palace to the Brandenburg Gate. 
There are four rows of trees, two on each side of the 
central avenue, while the roadway is on either side. We 
took a morning walk over the entire length of the central 
avenue of this street. There is no grass on it, but it is 
a sandy waste kept moist by sprinkling with water. The 
trees are composed of chestnut, linden, plantain, acacia, 
and aspen, whose various foliage contrasts beautifully 
with the elegant palaces and public buildings that line 
each side of the street. The palaces face this street, 
the Emperor's and that of the Prince Royal. Here are 
also the Academy of Fine Arts, the Opera House, the 
Arsenal, the Seminaries of the Artillery and Engineers, 
and some fine hotels. Here the fashionable and wealthy 
exhibit themselves and their splendid equipage. It is the 
favorite street of the Emperor, who delights in an early 
morning walk " C7w^er den Linden^ The tree is still 
pointed out, and remains well protected, under which the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 207 

King was resting when the fiendish would-be assasssin 
fired upon him with buckshot a few years ago, and came 
well nigh accomplishing his murderOus end. 

On the Linden street, opposite the palace of the Crown 
Prince, stands the colossal equestrian statue of Frederick 
the Great, pronounced to be one of the most magnificent 
monuments in Europe. Its pedestal is of granite, divided 
into three sections. The two upper sections are of bronze. 
At the corner of the upper are figures representing Jus- 
tice, Fortitude, Prudence, and Temperance. Between 
these are bas-reliefs representing different periods in the 
life of Frederick — the Muse teaching him history; Mer- 
cury presenting him with a sword ; and one representing 
him walking in the garden of his palace, surrounded by 
his favorite companions, the greyhounds, playing his flute. 
The central section contains bronze groups, life size, of all 
the leading generals and statesmen during the seven years' 
war, amounting in all to thirty-one persons. The lower 
section contains names of other prominent men, especially 
soldiers of the time of Frederick. The equestrian statue 
of Frederick the Great surmounting the top is seventeen 
feet high, and perfect in all its proportions ; a mantle 
hangs from the monarch's shoulders, his stick hanging 
from his wrist, all natural and true to life. It is the pro- 
duction of Ranch, and certainly is a magnificent work of 
art. The monuments in Berlin are not so numerous, but are 
of a superior character. The Victory (7o/wm72, in honor 
of the victory over the French in the late Franco-Prussian 
war, is among the foremost for beauty and attraction. 

At one end of the broad avenue of lindens is the Palace 



208 A NEW PATH 

Bridge, with its eight groups of statuary, and at the 
other the portal of the Brandenburg Gate, surmounted by 
its colossal chariot of victory. Immediately outside of 
this gate is the Thiergarten, a magnificent park. This 
is a perfect picture of beauty. It contains the finest com- 
bination of natural forest scenery, and artificial park 
beauty that we have ever seen anywhere. It is two miles 
in length, and half a mile in breadth. All along, on both 
sides of this park, there is an array of the most lovely 
palatial residences, the extensive gardens around which 
are adorned with statuary and fountains, and brilliant with 
flowers and ornamental trees. 

The monuments of Frederick William III. and Queen 
Louisa stand in the Thiergarten, and are very beautiful, 
being made of the finest white granite. They stand in 
sight of each other, facing. The spot near by the beauti- 
ful stream, where it is said these two royalists were accus- 
tomed to meet in their youthful days as lovers, is care- 
fully noted. It occurred to us this would form the basis 
for a first-class story in romance. 

The military display in Berlin is a perfect wonder to a 
foreigner. So numerous are the soldiers and military 
parades, that one thinks that King William must be en- 
gaged in actual warfare. The fact that Prussia is a mil- 
itary government and Berlin its head-quarters is every 
where apparent. Almost everything is military. All 
the railroads and telegraphs are in the hands of the gov- 
errment, and all these officials are in military dress ; so 
are all the police, and all who do guard duty around the 
public buildings. Every able-bodied man in Germany is 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 209 

a soldier in some period of his life ; and so well are they 
drilled, and constantl}^ ready for the field, that every 
man, though belonging to the landwehr (militia), knows 
his number and place in rank, and where to report in 
case of an emergency. An officer told us that in twenty- 
four hours the entire military force of the United Empire 
could be on the move to do service in any part of its 
realm. Thus it was that there were no raw recruits in 
the immense army brought so suddenly into the field to 
resist and drive back Napoleon in the late war. King 
William is always ready for the fray. It is, however, a 
very expensive readiness. It oppresses the people with 
enormous taxation ; and this is one of the reasons why so 
many thousands of Germans annually throng the steamers 
for America. But the state of things in Europe is such 
that military poAver, almost amounting to despotism, has 
become a necessity as a means of self-preservation. 

Berlin is undoubtedly the capital, too, of taste in the 
fine arts, and of intellectual culture. We saw more in- 
telligent and intellectual-looking people in Berlin than in 
either Paris or London. Its university, with one hun- 
dred and fifty professors and two thousand students, is 
composed of the most distinguished men of science who 
can be collected in Germany, or in any one of the Euro- 
pean countries. It is the centre of instruction and intel- 
lectual development in Northern Germany. Its libraries 
are immense and numerous, and its educational facilities 
of the very highest order. Its museum stands unrivaled 
in Europe. Its picture gallery may be surpassed by the 
Uffizi Gallery or Pitti Palace at Florence. 



210 A NEW PATH 

Berlin is not a gay city like Paris, except on the occa- 
sion of some commemoration of victories in war, or in 
honor of the Kaiser and " Our Fritz ; " then the German 
shows what he can do. Ordinarily, however, the people 
are quiet even over their beer and Schweitzer cheese, and 
there are no noisy, jolly, frolicking gatherings of an even- 
ing, such as you find in gardens and saloons of our own 
larger towns and cities. 

As to drinking, we are free to say, there is much of it 
— that is, everybody drinks wine and heer in Germany — 
but as for drunke7tness, we saw none. We were in many 
beer gardens, and in other places of social and public 
resort, where we saw as many as five thousand people as- 
sembled, seated with their families at the small marble 
tables, sipping beer and wine. The best of order pre- 
vailed ; no boisterousness, and no drunkenness could any- 
where be noticed. The German does not gulp down 
half a dozen glasses of beer in an hour's time, but spends 
an entire evening over one or two glasses in pleasant con- 
versation, and at ten o'clock goes to his home. You 
bring together five thousand, or even five hundred Amer- 
icans, or possibly Germans in America, and si;ive them all 
the wine and beer they want to drink, and see what a 
frolic you would have! Then, too, the Germans drink 
no whisky over there, and their Avine and beer are pure 
and unadulterated. The government regulates their 
manufacture, and no inferior make is allowed to be 
sold. Adulteration of their beverages is severely pun- 
ished, and there is no attempt at it now. We saw no 
bloated drunkards in Germany. No one need tell us 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 211 

that the Germans are the great drinking and drunken 
race of the world, as thej are generally represented to 
be. Our experience in Germany emphatically disproves 
this. 

We did not see a single intoxicated person in all our 
travels in Germany; and with one exception — and he 
was an American — only one drunken man in all our jour- 
neyings on the Continent. We saw more drunkenness, 
however, in London than we ever saw anywhere in our own 
country. It seemed to us that the Germans in this parti- 
cular, in the great cities of the Fatherland,' are an entirely 
different class of people from some of their own race in 
America. We do not hesitate to say that the more we 
saw of the Germans, tjie better we thought of them. For 
disinterested kindness, genuine politeness, honesty, good 
behavior, general industry, and thrift, we unhesitatingly 
give the palm to the Germans. They stand head and 
shoulders above all the Europeans. 

But with all the attractions of the great city of Berlin, 
we must leave it, and in the evening we are on board the 
train bound for Cassel, where we remain but a feAv hours ; 
thence are off for Hogan. This section abounds in many 
beautiful towns. We passed through Aaronsburg, but 
not our native town by that name^ in Centre Co., Pa. 
After passing through Elberfeld and Deitz, we reached 
Coin (Cologne) on the Rhine. Having spent some time 
in this city before, we tarried only part of a day, and 
then bidding adieu to Vaterland, we started for Paris, 
passing through much delightful country scenery, and 
many large towns and fine cities, such as Yervier and 



2VZ A NEW PATH 

Brussels in Belgium, and the next morning at six o'clock 
we reached Paris in a rain storm. 

On our way to the Rhine from Hesse Cassel we had 
one of a number of exhibitions of Prussian Franco love. 
The greater part of the forenoon we had occupied a com- 
partment on a car by ourselves ; but at Elberfeld, a gen- 
tleman and lady, both attractive in appearance, entered 
the car and became our traveling companions for the en- 
tire day. Having been in the cars all night previous, 
we were not in a talking mood. Finally, however, we 
broke the silence by giving expression, in the German 
language, to our delight at the beautiful country we were 
traversing. 

"My dear sir, you greatly surprise me," replied the 
gentleman, " I took you to be a Frenchman, and a French- 
man would have nothing good to say of Germany." In 
a vein of humor we remarked, " My friend, may that be 
the reason why you refrained from speaking to me, your 
silence growing out of fear or dislike for the French?" 
He quickly answered, and with the greatest animation, 
" No, sir, my dear friend, Germans never fear the 
French, and the next time they attempt to cross the 
Rhine, we will annihilate (vernichten) them." This is 
about the feeling of the Germans toward the French, and 
so vice verse. We found this gentleman and his daugh- 
ter most delightful traveling companions. 



CHAPTER XXIIT. 

IN FRANCE — THE CITY OF PATHS— ITS CLEANLINESS — ITS STORES 
— THE BOULEYARDS— THE INWARD AND OUTWARD— ITS GREAT 
PUBLIC SQUARE — PLACE OF CONCORD — THE CHAMPS ELYSEES. 

1^0 speak of all the interesting things one sees in Paris, 
even in a two weeks' visit there, would require a 
volume itself. The most minute description, however, 
can give but a faint idea of this remarkable city. It is 
full of charms, and grows into a perpetual wonder as one 
tarries to see its beauties and admire its attractions. The 
first thing that impresses the stranger in Paris is its won- 
derful cleanliness and brightness. The streets are nearly 
all paved with asphaltum, hence the carriages and omni- 
busses make little noise as they glide along on the smooth 
pavements. The sweeping machines are busy during the 
night, making the streets as clean as they could be swept 
with a corn broom by hand, and afterwards are carefully 
sprinkled, so that the dust may be completely washed out 
of all the crevices. 

The peculiar light-yellow stone (almost white) of 
which the houses are constructed, gives the city a re- 
markable brightness, especially in sunny weather. The 
houses are generally four or five stories, and support the 
beautiful mansard roof. There are miles of these pala- 
tial structures, with magnificently built arcades, which af- 
ford perfect protection to the foot-man against the heat 
10* ( 313 ) 



214 A NEW PATH 

and rain. The houses have no steps or stoops in front, 
the entrance being hj» an arched gateway into a court- 
yard, from which you pass into the interior dwelling. This 
adds an additional width to the streets, which without this 
arrangement are wider than in most large cities. It gives 
a very wide pavement, and affords plenty of space for 
promenading room in front of restaurants and cafes, where 
large numbers of the people gather from morning until 
late at night, sipping their favorite beverage and taking 
their meals. 

Paris by gaslight is a brilliant scene. The boulevards 
extending for miles through almost all sections of the city 
present a gay appearance at night. The large number 
of cafes, brilliant with gas-jets and electric lights, have 
their tables out on the broad pavements, and from eight 
to ten o'clock in the evening it is difficult to obtain a 
seat at any of them. Here the Parisians luxuriate, 
spending their summer evenings in promenading the 
boulevards, and frequently stopping for a cup of their 
favorite drink. The best of order prevails, and no drunk- 
enness is visible. Everybody seems to be happy and 
bent on enjoyment. The broad streets are also filled 
with carriages and omnibusses of every description, of 
burnished brightness. Every vehicle being obliged to 
carry from two to four lighted lamps, the vast numbers 
swiftly gliding over the smooth pavements present the 
appearance of immense torch-light processions. The 
vehicles having the right of way, there is little respect 
shown to pedestrians ; and should you happen to be run 
over, the law punishes you for having put yourself in the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 215 

way. It often seemed to us as if the drivers were intent 
on driving over somebody, so furiojisly did they urge 
their steeds. In London it is far otherwise. 

The stores of Paris are a perfect wonder of beauty 
and attractiveness. They are not only brilliantly lighted, 
but nearly all of them have rows of gas-lights on the out- 
side, above the doors and windows, making the streets 
almost as light as day. The artistic display of goods, 
the dispostion of the lights, and the reflection in the side- 
glasses with which the shop windows are always pro- 
vided, presents a continuous spectacle of surpassing 
beauty. The almost innumerable number of jewelers' 
windows, sparkling with diamonds and precious stones, 
present an array of brilliant beauty that constantly at- 
tracts the admiring attention of the throngs of promena- 
ders. Everybody seems to be out-doors in Paris at night, 
and intent on being gay and happy. There are no streets 
in any other city like the boulevards — wide thoroughfares, 
running in every direction, all teeming at night with life 
and animation. There are sixty of these thoroughfares, 
which are from house to house one hundred and sixty 
feet wide, ninety feet being given to the carriage-way, 
and thirty-five feet on each side for the pavements. Fine 
rows of trees line the curb-stone. The houses lining both 
sides of the streets are nearly all of uniform construc- 
tion, none less than five stories high, and many of them 
towering up to six and seven, including the mansard- 
roofs. On these thoroughfares the people mass, and 
it presents an ever-moving, dazzling panorama of human- 
ity, bafiling all description, and eo^ualed in no other city. 



216 A NEW PATH 

In every direction you go, there is one continuous charm 
of attractive beauty. The Parisian does not worship the 
" dust of ages," or take pride in smoked and begrimed 
walls, as the Lond oner does. If the former has any- 
thing that is handsome, he tries to make it handsomer. 
Antiquity has no worshipers, and is made to yield to the 
spirit of improvement. Paris is not beautiful in spots, 
but every portion of it abounds in attractions. 

It is needless to say that the dressing is fine in this, 
the city of the world's fashions. There is much taste 
and great elegance displayed in this particular. A 
ragged, filthy child or adult, if seen on the streets or 
found anywhere in the home, must be able to give an ac- 
count of himself, and is required by a law, strictly en- 
forced, to be clean and tidy. The Parisians, whatever 
else may be said about them, certainly set a good ex- 
ample in this particular, worthy of all imitation. "Wash, 
and be clean." Let the cleansing be inward as well as 
outward. 

The inhabitants of Paris have long considered them- 
selves at the head of European civilization, and if such 
an eminence can be gained by mere external polish, they 
perhaps deserve it. In matters of dress and fashion, the 
lead is conceded to them by a kind of common consent. 
None succeed better, not only in practicing the agreeable 
arts of life, but even in observing the outward decencies 
of society. But "not all is gold that glitters," and be- 
neath this pleasing surface runs a strong and polluted 
current, and perhaps there are few places in the world 
where the more substantial virtues are more rare, and 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 217 

where so much dissoluteness exists within such narrow 
limits. 

The means of conveyance in Paris are much the same 
as in other European cities. The cab system makes it 
very convenient for sight-seeing, as one can be obtained 
anywhere. The omnibus and horse-car arrangement, 
two stories high, with seats on top, if their conductors 
were more polite, like they are in London, would greatly 
add to the stranger's comfort. The best way to get a 
good view of the city is to climb to the top of one of 
these huge omnibusses and ride all over the town. To 
one who has been in Paris, it is no wonder that people 
who delight in pleasure, gayety, festivity, and endless 
amusements, love to linger so long in such an attractive 
and almost bewitching city. 

There is perhaps no city in the world that can boast of 
more fine gardens, open squares, pleasure grounds, and 
places of public resort, than Paris. 

The Place cle la Concorde (The Place of Concord) is 
the most beautiful and extensive square in the city, and 
one of the finest in the world. It covers an area of four 
hundred yards in length by two hundred and fifty yards 
in width, and is located in the heart of the city. Though 
called the Place of Concord, it is nevertheless the place 
where human blood has been spilt, and more scenes of 
horror and confusion have been enacted, than upon any 
similar space of ground in the world. Here it was, in 
1770, that during the celebration of the nuptials of Louis 
XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in the midst of a panic caused 
by the discharge of fireworks, the carriages were driven 



218 A NEW PATH 

among the people, and over twelve hundred persons were 
trampled to death, besides the thousands wounded. Here 
also took place the collision between the people and the 
soldiers, which was the signal for the destruction of the 
Bastile. It was here, in 1793, that the guillotine began 
its bloody work with the execution of Louis XYI., and so 
soon afterwards of the ill-fated queen, Marie Antoinette. 
Soon followed the bloody death of Charlotte Corday, 
Danton, Robespierre ; and in a little more than a year 
and a half over twenty-eight hundred people were exe- 
cuted by the guillotine in this square. It was well said 
by one who opposed the erection of the large fountain on 
the spot where the scaffold stood, that all the water in 
the world would not suffice to remove the blood-stains 
which sullied the " Place." It was here that the first 
disturbance in the revolution of 1848 took place. It was 
here also that the Prussian soldiers bivouacked in March, 
1871, and where, in the following May, the desperate 
struggle between the troops of Versailles and the Com- 
munists took place, during which the earth was soaked 
with blood. A more appropriate name for this "Place" 
w^ould be the " Place de la Discorde." 

But for all this, it is a majestic square, and its adorn- 
ments are very grand. In the centre stands the famous 
Obelisk of Luxor, a monolith that was presented to the 
French government by Mohammed Ali, Pasha of Egypt, 
whence it was brought by Napoleon I. It formerly stood 
in front of the temple of Thebes, and had been erected 
by the great Sesostris, fifteen hundred years before 
Christ. Every side is covered with hieroglyphics. Near 



ACKOSS AN OLD FIELD. 219 

the Obelisk, and in the spot where once was erected the 
guillotine, stands a magnificent fountain. Its basin is fifty 
feet in diameter, colossal figures surrounding it, separated 
by spouting dolphins, held in the arms of winged children. 
Around the square are eight colossal statues representing 
the principal cities of France. 

This square forms a beautiful link between the Tuiler- 
ies gardens and the Champs Ulysees. Toward the north, 
at the terminus of the Rue Roy ale, stands the Madeleine, 
or the church of St. Mary Magdelene ; on the south, over 
the Pont de la Concorde, you see the Legislative Palace, 
nearly behind which looms up the gilded dome of the In- 
valides. Under this dome is the matchless tomb of Na- 
poleon I. \ 

Continuing westward, we enter the Champs Elysees, 
which is a continuation of the walk from the gardens of 
the Tuileries. No pen-picture can do justice to this 
magnificent avenue and pleasure-ground of splendor and 
beauty. Its length is one mile and a quarter, its width 
two hundred and fifty yards, terminating at the Arc de 
I'Etoile (the triumphal arch). The avenue has foot 
pavements twelve feet wide, laid in bitumen. All its 
smaller avenues are planted with magnificent trees and 
bordered by delightful walks. Thousands of gas and 
electric lights produce an effect that is charming at night. 
During fine weather the Champs Elysees is the favorite 
spot for all classes ; continually from morning till late at 
night are circulating a multitude of sumptuous equipages, 
going and coming from the Bois de Boulogne; Avhile on 
every side we see beautiful groves, surrounded by banked 



220 A NEW PATH 

flower gardens, open concert-rooms, handsome coffee- 
houses, restaurants, elegant fountains, encircled by 
flower-beds ; and, when all is lighted up by the ten thou- 
sand gas and electric lights, the scene is truly brilliant 
and entrancing. But on "fete" or holy days, when an 
illumination takes place, the scene is beyond description. 
When every building is transformed into a palace of fire 
and every tree into a pyramid of colored lights, when 
the brilliancy of coloring disputes with the elegance of 
decoration, it is enchanting indeed. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

MORE ABOUT PARIS — THE TRIUMPHAL ARCH — BOIS, OR PARK OF 
BOULOGNE— LOUVRE — THE GREAT ART GALLERY — HOTEL DES 
INVALIDES — THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON I. — TOMB OF JEROME 
BONAPARTE — LUXEMBOURG PALACE— HOTEL DE VII-LE, OR CITY 
HALL. 

AS you approach the eastern terminus of the magnifi- 
cent avenue, the Champs Elysees, you arrive at 
the Triumphal Arch, one of Paris' attractions. This is 
the largest structure of the kind in existence, and is visi- 
ble from almost every\part of the environs of the city. 
It was begun by Napoleon I. in 1806, and was completed 
by Louis Philippe in 1836. It was erected to celebrate 
the victories of the French under the Republic and Em- 
pire. It consists of a vast arch sixty- seven feet in height 
and forty-six feet in width. The w^hole structure is one 
hundred and sixty feet high, one hundred and forty-six feet 
in width and seventy-two feet in depth. Each front has a 
group of statuary. One represents Napoleon I. standing 
in a dignified attitude, whilst Victory places the crown upon 
his brow. The cost of the structure was over two millions 
of dollars. It was under this arch that the German army 
marched after the capitulation of Paris to King William, 
in 1871. Whilst the great arch contains a number of tab- 
lets in memory of victories achieved over the Germans, 
yet the German army made a terrific score against the 
French that day, which needs no sculpturing in stone or 
(321) 



222 A NEW PATH 

brass. After mounting two hundred and sixtv-one steps 
we reached the top of the arch, from which we had one 
of the finest views of Paris on one side, and the Bois or 
Park of Boulogne on the other. 

This is the principal park of Paris. It is approached 
from the city by the Avenue of the Champs Ely sees. 
There is nothing in Europe that can compare with it. 
Here art and taste have conspired to charm the eye with 
the most picturesque scenery. Everything that wealth 
and art combined could do has been done, to add to the 
natural beauties of the place. Its beautiful lakes and the 
rich turf which clothes their banks down to the water's 
edge ; its white pebbled walks lined with mossy green ; 
its charming flower-beds, elaborate fountains, and exten- 
sive array of fine statuary ; its stately and natural forest 
trees ; its many winding paths emerging from the cool fir 
groves ; its snug little Swiss cottages seen peering here 
and there from behind the trees ; and added to this, the 
rich equipages enlivening the carriage-roads which wind 
around the lakes, the crowds of people enjoying the cool 
shade under the stately trees or sauntering along the 
gravel walks, children flocking about in the height of 
merriment and glee, ^ the boats flying to and fro with their 
white canvas awnings shining in the sun; all this pre- 
sented an enchanting view and a maze of bustle and ani- 
mation on that fine summer afternoon as we drove 
through the park, that w^as most pleasing to the eye and 
most exhilarating to our spirits. But it is vain to at- 
tempt even a pen-picture of this thoroughly charming 
and delightful park. It was a most refreshing place 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 223 

for King William's soldiers to rest after the fall of Paris 
in 1871. 

But we must leave, for a while, the out-door attractions 
of Paris, and look at some of its in-door places. These 
are almost numberless, but let us mention the Louvre^ the 
most important public building in the city, both architec- 
turally and on account of its treasures of art. It is 
Paris' great art gallery and museum, in the Tuileries, 
which cover a space of forty acres. We need not say 
that it is of unequalled proportions. It requires fully 
three hours to walk through its rooms and halls at a reg- 
ular pace and glancing at objects as you pass. The 
French armies returning to Paris from their victorious 
campaigns in Italy, the Netherlands, and Grermany, laden 
with treasures of art of every description, made the Louvre 
collection not merely the most important of the kind 
in France, but some think, par excellence^ the museum 
of Europe. To see even all that is possessed of striking 
beauty and artistic skill, to the most trained eye in this 
department of human accomplishment, would require 
months of time, and then any attempt to describe what 
one has seen and admired, could only prove unsatisfact- 
ory and very insipid. In the great forest of paintings 
you see every school of art in the world represented by its 
masters, and representatives of almost all ages. No gallery 
in Europe is so well supplied with works of Raphael as the 
Louvre. Besides, the master hands of such as Murillo, 
Titian, Oorregio, Rubens and Michael Angelo, and men 
of less fame, are here enthroned in their great splendor. 
Here you see how these masters embodied their grand 



224: A NEW PATH 

conceptions, and you are filled with wonder and admira- 
tion at the skill of human genius. The presence of so 
much beauty and splendor becomes oppressive as you 
revel in it day after day. We walked through miles up- 
on miles of paintings, seeing the works of all the old and 
new masters, and for days tasted of this overflowing cup 
of knowledge and beauty. 

Besides the art collections, the Louvre contains an 
ethnographical museum, a marine museum, and untold 
numbers of other objects of interest. The museum of 
Egyptian antiquities is the most important collection in 
Europe, and so far as is possible without the appropriate 
architectural surroundings, affords an almost complete 
survey of the religion, the customs and the art-life of the 
most ancient of peoples. The Assyrian museum is also 
very large and full, and so are the antiquities of Asia 
Minor. The wonders of all ages and all lands are here 
brought together, and are the treasures of the student 
and scholar. 

The collections of ancient and modern sculpture, 
though inferior to the great Italian collections, boast 
of many works of the highest rank. We cannot speak 
of any particular piece of sculpture excepting the world 
renowned Venus of Milo. This has a hall to itself. 
At once you see the superior workmanship over all the 
rest. Although armless, the figure is perfect, the atti- 
tude the most natural and graceful, while there is a calm 
purity, modesty and resoluteness about the sweet and 
lovely face. 

But we may as well dismiss the Louvre, for an attempt 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 225 

to give you a description of it is entirely unsatisfactory 
to us, and fails to convey to you anything like a proper 
conception of what it is, in its wealth of beauty and 
treasure. 

We now go and see the Hotel des Invalided and the 
Tomh of Napoleon I. The former is an immense gran- 
ite building for soldiers disabled by wounds, and those 
who have served for thirty years in the French army. 
This soldier's home has its church, and contains all the 
banners taken by the French in their wars with other na- 
tions, arranged along both sides of the nave. The re- 
mains of Napoleon were temporarily placed in this build- 
ing after being brought from St. Helena (in 1840). 
But there was a secopd church built which joins the 
Hotel des Invalides, and is one of the most magnificent 
and impressive buildings in Paris. It is built of the 
finest marble and precious stone, and a most appropriate 
burial place for one of the most remarkable men the 
world ever saw. The church is a square pile, one hun- 
dred and ninety-eight feet in breadth, surmounted by a 
circular tower with twelve windows, and a lofty dome, 
three hundred and forty-four feet in height. The dome 
is eighty-six feet in diameter, gilded with gold. Situated 
beneath this wide and lofty dome, twenty feet below the 
main marble floor, is an open circular crypt, around 
which is formed a marble balustrade or wall. As you 
lean and look over this marble parapet into the circular 
space which it encloses, your eyes rest on the massive 
sarcophagus which holds the remains of the Emperor. 
Around the walls of the crypt, which are composed of 



226 A NEW PATH 

polished slabs of granite, stand ten noble angelic forms in 
spotless white marble, bearing emblems of victory, while 
each sad and beautiful countenance turns to the centre, 
guarding and mourning the mighty conqueror who was 
overcome by death. On the mosaic pavement, which re- 
presents a wreath of laurels, rises the sarcophagus, thir- 
teen feet long, six feet and a half wide, and fourteen feet 
high, consisting of a single huge block of reddish-brown 
granite, brought from Finland at a cost of $30,000. 
Above the crypt, at a height of one hundred and sixty 
feet, rises the lofty dome in two sections. The first of 
these is divided into twelve compartments, painted with 
figures of the Apostles. The upper section is adorned 
with a large composition — St. Louis offering Christ the 
sword with which he had vanquished the foes of Chris- 
tianity. The faint, bluish light admitted from above, and 
the sombre appearance of the crypt and its surroundings, 
greatly enhance the solemn grandeur of the scene. The 
whole expense of the tomb was $2,000,000. The en- 
trance to the crypt (always closed) is at the rear of the 
high altar. Over the entrance-way is a quotation from 
the Emperor's will : "I desire that my ashes may repose 
on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French 
people whom I have ever loved." 

It is a sight to see the great crowds going into this 
building and gazing upon the tomb of one of the world's 
most wonderful men. It is very evident that the spirit 
of Napoleon still lives in Paris, and that he is still ar- 
dently loved by the French people. Thousands of them 
go to Napoleon's tomb as they go to a shrine to worship, 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 227 

and still love to speak his name and works in devout 
love and lavish praise. Though his glory has been tar- 
nished by the revelations of his utter selfishness and 
cruel ambition, yet multitudes of the French people feel 
the magic of his name, and glory in his extraordinary 
ahiev^ements. 

The church contains the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte^ 
who died in 1860, once King of Westphalia, a small sar- 
cophagus with the remains of his eldest son, and another 
containing the heart of his wife. In another part of the 
building rest the remains of Jo%efh Bonaparte^ who 
died in 1844, and was once King of Spain. Taken alto- 
gether, the tomb of Napoleon ranks among the finest 
things one sees in all the marvels of a European tour. 

We cannot omit- to mention the Limemhourg Palace. 
It is a building of great beauty and of many historic as- 
sociations. Part of the palace is occupied by the Musee 
de Luxembourg^ which contains a collection of works of 
living artists, consisting of paintings, sculptures, drawings, 
engravings and lithographs. The works of the most dis- 
tinguished masters are generally transferred from here to 
the Louvre, ten years after their death. Especially fine 
are the specimens of sculpture in this museum. The gar- 
dens which surround the palace are of great beauty 
and charm. The flower beds are embellished with the 
most beautiful fountains. The terraces are adorned with 
many statues in marble. It is the only remaining Re- 
naissance garden in Paris, and with its balustrades and 
steps and many other artistic beauties, reminds one of 
the famous Boboli gardens at Florence. It is a lovely 



228 A NEW PATH 

spot to visit and rest in, and at the same time enjoy the 
sweet strains of music by the excellent band. 

We have only space to mention the Hotel de Ville, 
or town-hall of Paris. This magnificent edifice was 
burned by the Communists on the 24th of May, 1871. 
Many ruins are still visible. It is being rebuilt, and 
promises to be restored to its original beauty and magni- 
tude. The fire however destroyed much that can never 
be restored, including the library of one hundred thou- 
sand volumes, numerous works of art, and a great many 
important public documents. May our land ever be pre- 
served against the cruel hands of Communism ! 



CHAPTER XXV. 

PARIS CONTINUED — A PARISIAN SUNDAY — ^A PLEASANT SURPRISE 
— THE CHURCHES — THE NOTRE DAME — HYACINTHS LOYSEN — 
THE MADELEINE — SAINTE CHAPELLE — ST. BARTHOLOMEW — 
THE PRISONS — VERSAILLES — MARIE ANTOINETTE— AN ACCI- 
DENT — SYMPATHY FOR THE PRESIDENT. 

IF we had time and space, we would be glad to give you 
a description of the beautiful Colonne Vendome and 
the Palais Royal. The former is an imitation of Tra- 
jan's Column at Rome, and was erected by order of Na- 
poleon I., to commemorate his victories over the Russians 
and Austrians. It is surmounted by a life-size statue 
of the Emperor. This magnificent column was pulled 
down by the Communists in 1871, but has been rebuilt 
out of the old fragments. The Palais Royal is a build- 
ing of great beauty, and covers a whole square. The 
ground floors are occupied by shops, which exhibit a 
tempting display of jewelry in quantities sufficient to 
supply all Paris. This palace was also the object of the 
Communists' wrath, and was set on fire chiefly with a 
view to destroy the departments of Prince Napoleon. 

We spent two Sundays in Paris, and like a true son of 
the church, looked for a Lutheran church ; and though 
we have fourteen places of worship, yet we were pre- 
vented from attending service in either one. The next 
best thing we could do the first Lord's day, was to attend 
service at the Wesleyan chapel, where we heard an ex- 
11 ( 329 ) 



230 A NEW PATH 

cellent sermon from Bishop Simpson. It was a great 
pleasure to hear a preacher of our own country and in 
our own tongue in a foreign land. The congregation w^as 
largely composed of Americans, and all seemed to know 
each other. Rev. W. H. Steck, of our church, sat down 
almost by our side before he was aware of our presence. 
Think of our mutual surprise as well as pleasure thus to 
meet! The second Sunday morning we attended service 
at the Scotch chapel of the Presbyterian church, and 
heard an excellent sermon by Rev. Ewing, of Edinburgh. 
The attendance was small, but so was the chapel. 

Being anxious to know how the Lord's day is kept in 
Paris in a general way, we confess to having made a 
pedestrian investigation one Sunday afternoon. Con- 
trasted with our own, this is the Parisian's great pleasure 
day. We made our way to the Champs Elysees. As 
we approached this great avenue we seemed to be com- 
ing into the midst of a grand mass meeting of all the 
children of Paris, who were congregated here by many 
thousands, all in the higest glee and gayety. All man- 
ner of contrivances for amusement were in progress, the 
most popular of which appeared to be Punch and Judy 
shows. Great numbers of these little theatres were in 
progress, around each of which were crowds of spectators, 
mostly children, who occupied the seats at ten centimes 
(about two cents) each. Under the groves were toy 
and gingerbread stalls, and every variety of attractions 
for the young and old. A great number of revolving 
horse-machines of the most brilliant adornings, with chil- 
dren astride wooden ponies, were doing a successful busi- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 231 

ness. There were also various concert gardens, and 
cafes scattered among the trees on either side, where 
open-air concerts were in progress attended by large 
audiences, and every variety of drink was furnished. At 
the same time the avenue on this thoroughfare, for driv- 
ing and promenading, was thronged with the grandest 
vehicles Paris can afford, whilst the gay and lively spec- 
tacle was enjoyed by thousands of persons seated on the 
iron chairs with which the side-walks are lined. At 
night all the cafes and concert places were brilliantly 
illuminated, and bands of music swelled the air with their 
sweet strains. The numerous circus buildings were also 
illuminated, and the doors thrown open for a grand eques- 
trian performance. \ 

You may imagine, but you cannot realize^ how 
strangely and sadly all this panoramic scene of gayety 
and pleasure on the Lord's day, contrasted with our own 
at home. It seems to us that it was sowing to the wind, 
from which will be reaped the whirlwind. This the 
French have often experienced. It is true, most of 
the business places in Paris are closed on the Lord's day, 
but all Paris seems to be given up to pleasure and frolic 
on this sacred day, and a very small proportion of its 
people go to church. 

As to church edifices, there are many in the city, and 
not a few of wondrous beauty and magnitude. The 
Notre Dame is among this number. The interior of this 
church, with its lofty arches and massive pillars, makes a 
most imposing appearance. Notre Dame certainly is 
great, and so was Father Hyacinthe in the days when he 



232 A NEW PATH 

was the most popular preacher in Paris. The church in 
which he now preaches is a very unpretentious edifice in 
comparison with this, where he delighted thousands with 
his eloquence. Romanists and infidels have no good will 
for Hyacinthe Loysen. In the treasury of this church 
we were shown fragments of the "crown of thorns " and 
the "true cross," a nail of the "true cross," and many 
other relics and ecclesiastical vestments. 

The Madeleine is perhaps the most chaste and magni- 
ficent of all the modern churches of Europe. During the 
reign of the Commune in 1871, three hundred insurgents, 
driven from their barricade in the streets, sought refuge 
in this sacred edifice ; but the troops having soon forced 
an entrance, not one of the unhappy miscreants escaped 
alive. 

For exquisite beauty, richness of window^s and archi- 
tectural finish, we pronounced the Sainte Chapelle a 
celestial chapel. Not far from this beautiful edifice 
stands the church from whose small tower sounded the 
preconcerted signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew, 
and during the whole of that fearful night the bell unre- 
mittingly tolled its funeral peal. As we stood looking at 
this tower and began to fill up with thoughts of the hor- 
rid scenes of that bloody time, we were tempted to be- 
lieve it would be a good thing to pull down that tower, 
and concluded that that church was only a cumberer of 
the ground. 

While in this neighborhood, we failed not to see the 
prison so famous in the annals of France. It is under- 
neath the Palace of Justice, adjoining the Seine. Most 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 283 

of the political prisoners of the first Revolution were 
confined here before their execution. Profound interest 
attaches to the small chamber of the cell in which Marie 
Antoinette was imprisoned. The crucifix and arm-chair 
belonging to the ill fated queen, used by her during the 
sixty days she spent here, are still there. An altar has 
since been added, and the cell has been embellished with 
paintings representing the queen taking leave of her 
family, and her last communion. Adjoining this chamber, 
and now connected with it by an archway, is the cell in 
which Robespierre was afterward confined. The place, 
an excavation in the immense stone wall, where the be- 
heading was done, is still pointed out. The only flourish 
on execution days in tliose times, w^as the ax in the hands 
of the executioner. 

But we must leave unsaid many things that would be 
interesting to you, as they were to us, in the gay and 
wonderful city of Paris. 

After telling you someting about a trip to Versailles, 
with its wonderful palace, we will get ready to leave 
France. In company with twenty-seven other Ameri- 
cans, all in one immense tourist wagon, we started for 
Versailles. It was a beautiful morning, and we were 
happy with bright anticipations. We passed through 
some of the most delightful parts of Paris, out through 
the Triumphal Arch. As we reached the outskirts of 
the city, we observed many extensive fortifications of the 
memorable siege. We also passed the residence of Mar- 
shal Bazaine, and a few miles farther on we stopped, and 
for an hour strolled through the Mongso Park, which is 



234 A NEW PATH 

loveliness itself. The flowers, the green turf, and the ave- 
nues under the arched trees, presented a picture in na- 
ture, unsurpassed for beauty and loveliness. We then 
passed on to St. Cloud. Here is the Palace, once the 
home of Marie Antoinette, and in later times the favorite 
residence of Napoleon. It is at present a mass of ruins, 
having been burnt by the French themselves during the 
late siege. The palace gardens, the park, the fountains 
and flowers, are still greatly attractive. 

As a town, Versailles contains little to interest the 
tourist. The house which was the scene of the negotia- 
tions between Prince Bismarck and Jules Favre in 1871, 
and resulted in terms for the capitulation of Paris, is still 
to be seen. The great attractions of the place, however, 
are the palace and its picture gallery. These are rich 
in historic interest, and of great extent. The palace was 
the headquarters of the King of Prussia during the late 
siege, and a great part of the edifice was then used as a 
military hospital ; the King showing his appreciation of 
the fine arts by having all the pictures carefully covered 
to protect them against injury. In the Grande Gal- 
lerie, a superbly decorated hall, the impressive scene of 
proclaiming King William of Prussia Emperor of Ger- 
many, was enacted on the 18th day of January, 1871. 
Here is hall upon hall filled with the richest paintings by 
distinguished artists. It is a palace decidedly Napoleonic. 
Every battle in which the great soldier was victorious is 
elaborately put on canvas here. Napoleon's clock, w^ith 
its exquisite vase of golden flowers, is to be seen here, 
and is a gem of rich beauty. The apartments of Marie 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 235 

Antoinette are still very beautiful. Most of the original 
furniture has disappeared. The waiting room of the 
maids of honor — the richly furnished red and blue li- 
braries, filled with the choicest books — the bath rooms 
and saloon of the Queen, are all preserved in their orig- 
inal state. 

*'The world has never seen and never can see a sadder 
and more pathetic biography than that of Marie Antoi- 
nette. As Andromache and Hecuba moved by their ac- 
cumulated and mysterious sorrow the sympathy and tears 
of the ancient world, so has the story of Marie Antoi- 
nette moved those of the modern." Now, even after the 
lapse of so many years since her sad death, to walk in 
her accustomed paths and move freely about in her de- 
partments, tends to rekindle and freshly stir one's sym- 
pathy on her behalf. " It will in a few years more be a 
century since the French Revolution broke out, and it 
was ninety years ago, on the 16th of October, since her 
noble and afflicted life was ended by the guillotine. Yet 
her figure is as prominent and distinct in its personality 
to-day as when she died ; and when a child, still in its 
teens, is asked to give instances of beautiful women dis- 
tinguished for their misfortunes and heroism, the first 
that occurs to it, in answer, is nearly always Marie An- 
toinette. The hapless queen is still an object of sym- 
pathy as well as a sense of national shame to all intelli- 
gent and honest Frenchmen." " And not only in 
France, but in England and America, and in every coun- 
try of the Old World and the New where there are minds 
to study history and hearts to feel for the unutterable 



236 A NEW PATH 

woes and cruel sufferings of a woman, the grave of Marie 
Antoinette is kept green and flower-strewn and tear- 
watered in the memory." * 

]n the Grrand Trianon we were taken into the sleep- 
ing apartments of Napoleon. These are still possessed 
of great richness and beauty. Near these is the bed 
room and bed where Queen Victoria slept when on a visit 
to Paris in 1846. Everything displays great elegance. 
The Petit Trianon, the favorite resort of Antoinette, 
contains beautiful trees and a charming artificial lake, and 
was well worth a visit. 

We also paid a visit to the building which contains the 
collection of state carriages. These are marvels of splen- 
dor. They contain all such conveyances from the time 
of the first Empire to the baptism of the Prince Imperial 
in 1856. Josephine's is among the number. Nothing 
like this collection of royal carriages exists anywhere. 
If these royalists could ahvays have luxuriated in such 
vehicles in all the rides they took, they would have been 
happier than they were. Millions of money are stowed 
away in these golden, gilded carriages. 

The gardens in the rear of the palace are specimens of 
wonderful artificial style, and so are the small park and 
ornamental lakes. Such landscape gardening you can 
only see here. The gardener's chief object seems to 
have been to subject nature to the laws of symmetry, and 
to practice geometry, architecture, and sculpture upon 
lawns, trees, and ponds. 

* " The Mothers of Great Men and Women." — Laura C. Hol- 
loway. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 237 

After spending a whole day in and about this palace, so 
richly adorned with all that wealth and art could afford, 
we are on our return to the city, considerably subdued in 
tone, and still worse frightened before we reach our hotel. 
As we were approaching the Seine at a good rate of 
speed, there was a sudden collapse of our huge wagon, 
and twenty-eight people were quickly brought to the 
ground and deposited on the broad street. The writer 
was the only one who received any injury, which at 
the time threatened to be of a serious nature. This was 
not a little provoking, as ive had several times reminded 
the rest of the happy company of the defective wheels of 
our huge wagon. The spill-out and sprawl in the street 
was an amusing spectacle to the Parisians, but not quite 
so to us. With some assistance we limped away, saying 
to our friends, " DidnH I tell you so?^'' Ever after that, 
they looked upon us as something of a prophet ; if not 
that, then as one who knows something about wagons. 

After a short inspection of the great porcelain manufac- 
tory, which was near by where we made the sudden halt, 
we made our way to the Seine, where we took a boat 
and had a pleasant ride up into the city on this historic 
river. The evening was one to remain indoors, for we 
were greatly fatigued, but much delighted with our trip 
to Versailles. 

Though much more remains to be said about Paris and 
the French people, yet we must close with this. While 
we saw many things we could not like among the French, 
there were many that we could not help but admire. 
One cannot but be astonished at the vitality of the 
11* 



238 A NEW PATH 

French nation. Possibly no other people could have 
undergone all that has befallen them in the last twelve 
years without being thrown back half a century at least. 
Their trials and losses and political disquietude and tur- 
moil seem to have done them a world of good. To an 
American it was most gratifying to see the deep and un 
abated interest shown by the French, as by the Germans, 
in President Garfield, who was lying at the point of 
death. They read with ourselves the daily bulletins, 
showing much sympathy for the suffering President. 
The heart of the French people has generally been warm 
and true to us in every trouble and affliction. 



CHAPTER XXYl. 

FROM FRANCE INTO ENGLAND — ROUEN — JOAN OF ARC — A STATE 
OP TRIBULATION — ON THE BRITISH CHANNEL — BRIGHTON — 
REV. F. W. ROBERTSON — LONDON — THE SOMBRE CITY — ITS 
STREETS — THE GREAT COMMERCIAL CENTRE — THE MARCH OF 
IMPROYEMENT. 

RELUCTANTLY we took our departure from so at- 
tractive and beautiful a city as Paris. It was a rainy 
morning when we left our comfortable family home, the 
Hotel De Dijon, 29 R^le Caumartin, and soon were on 
our way to Rouen. There is nothing specially interesting 
in country scenery on the way to this city. There re- 
main not a few historic towns and castles of the olden 
times. We passed through Poissy, a town of five 
thousand inhabitants, where, in 1561, a conference was as- 
sembled by order of the States-General with a view to 
adjust the differences between the Roman Catholic and 
Protestant parties. Their deliberations, however, led to 
no result, owing to the strong condemnation of the Cal- 
vinists by the Sorbonne, the celebrated theological faculty 
of Paris. 

At Rouen, the Roman Rotomagus, formerly the capi- 
tal of Normandy, we spent part of a day. It is a city 
of over one hundred thousand people, and parts of it very 
beautiful. Besides its extensive cotton manufactures, it 
is a city of much historic interest. Its cathedral is a 
(339) 



240 A NEW PATH 

beautiful structure and well worth seeing, but >S'^. Onen 
is one of the most beautiful Gothic churches in existence, 
and far surpasses the cathedral, both in extent and ex- 
cellence of style. We much enjoyed the extensive and 
beautiful garden in the rear of this church. Near by is 
a relic of a citadel where Joa7i of Arc was once impris- 
oned. Another place of interest in Rouen is the spot 
where this same woman was burned at the stake in 1431. 
About twenty -four years later she was declared innocent 
of the crime of witchcraft by a papal bull, and the French, 
who it is well known had been her betrayers, being now 
masters of Rouen, erected a cross to her memory on the 
spot where she had suffered. The place is now occupied 
by a paltry figure over a fountain. The Europeans, it 
would seem, have wonderful faith in the efficacy of water 
as washing out the stains of foul crime ; for at almost 
every place where deeds of horror have been committed, 
they have erected flowing fountains. 

Leaving Rouen at 5 p. m., after two hours' ride, we 
reached Dieppe, situated on the British channel. We 
had intended to cross over during the evening ; but owing 
to the tide being out, we were obliged to spend the night 
here, and sailed at five the next morning. Scarcely had 
the steamer passed over the bar, when we made haste to 
meet our destiny. Horrid qualms were upon us, and the 
time of tribulation commenced. The groaning and the 
moaning became universal ; basins were handed around 
in profusion. In all our experience we never witnessed 
a more rapid transformation. If we had all taken emetics 
the effect could not have been more simultaneous. Be- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 241 

fore "going abroad," we were told by the knowing ones, 
that when these things came on we must resist them. 
We honestly tried it, and quickly made our way up on 
deck; but if ever the resisting forces were completely 
taken out of any one, they were out of us. The night 
previous had been stormy and the channel Avas very 
rough, and the short, chopping waves sent our boat bob- 
bing up and down — and there we were, hanging over the 
bulwarks of the vessel, holding by a rope, and leaning 
against a post, and at short intervals lifted to our tip-toes 
by reason of the violent iiptuard tendency within. We 
could neither live nor die. We were flanked on our right 
and left with persons in the same state of tribulation. A 
more subdued, forlorn, cast do2vn, and yet casting ujj, set 
of passengers no vessel ever carried. At one time we 
thought the end of all things had certainly come, but it 
was only in order to begin afresh ; and now we were re- 
minded of Mark Twain's experience, and thought that 
next "our immortal spirit would come up." It was our 
first experience in sea-sickness, but not our last, though 
the most violent. We never want five hours more of such 
experience as we had on the British channel. We never 
will know what the Frenchman said, though we heard 
him say it, to whom we attempted to speak in his troubles 
by our side ; but from the expression on his face, we would 
not wish to be guilty of saying what we think he said. 
It is best not to speak to a man when he is sea-sick. 
With the sight of the English coast came deliverance, and 
we were soon in the harbor of New Haven, and were 
almost as suddenly well as we had become suddenly sick. 



242 A NEW PATH 

After an hour's delay we were in the cars on our way 
to Brighton. This is a beautiful city of one hundred 
thousand people, with an annual influx of over fifty thou- 
sand tourists and visitors, it being now by far the most 
frequented sea-side resort in the British Islands. It 
afforded us much pleasure to see the church of the late 
great and distinguished preacher, the Rev. F. W. Rob- 
ertson. It is an unpretentious brick building of medium 
size. The preacher, however, was one of the greatest. 
He delighted as well as profited the multitudes that went 
to hear him. The wide diffusion of his published ser- 
mons in England, as well as in our own country, has 
given him a deservedly great reputation. 

Brighton is noted for its colleges and superior schools 
for both sexes. The chief attractions of the place for 
many consist in its clear and bracing air, the fine expanse 
of sea bordered by white chalk cliffs, its bathing facili- 
ties, and its gay crowds of visitors. The extension and 
admirably appointed Aquariuyn is well worthy a visit. 
Externally it makes no great show, being built on a site 
below the level of the street. The forty large tanks in 
the interior facing the halls are made of glass, and contain 
great numbers of fish, some of which, e. g. like the octo- 
pus, are exceedingly curious and interesting. There are 
here seal and sea-lion ponds, alligators, and stuffed speci- 
mens of fish and reptiles. The flat roof is laid out in 
beautiful flower beds, and is used as a promenade. 

In the after part of the day we were on our way to 
London, where we arrived at six, in a London rain. We 
had scarcely emerged from the train when we were 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 243 

greeted by a Jehu, not like in our country, however, 
with howlings of an unearthly nature, but with the polite 
salutation, "Will yer 'onor 'ave a coach, sir?" To hear 
English traveling companions giving directions for the 
careful " 'andling of their 'at boxes" was truly amusing. 
Every Englishman travels with a ponderous sole-leather 
hat-box, which is the object of his supreme attention. 
You may smash his trunk, tread upon his favorite corn 
with impunity, provided you only " 'andle his ^at-box^^ 
carefully. 

Well, we were glad to get back to old England again. 
We felt somewhat at home, and it was refreshing to hear 
one's own language spoken once more. The Armfield 
Hotel, South Place, near the Bank of England, proved 
this time, as formerly, a delightful home place to us. 

Having visited both Paris and London, one is apt to 
think of these two great cities by way of contrast. Oom- 
ing directly from the former bright and sunny city to the 
latter cloudy and so smoky, is enough to bring on a 
gloomy sensation. The brightest and most ornamental, 
as well as most cleanly and attractive portion of Paris is 
its business centre, but the very contrary is the case in 
London. The majority of the buildings are nearly coal 
black, or streaked and stained, whilst the mud and dirt 
on the streets partake largely of soot, and make a terri- 
ble mixture for pedestrians ; but they do one good thing 
too — they prevent ladies from indulging in the luxury of 
trailing skirts. The mud part in London is easily ex- 
plained, on account of the great humidity of the atmos- 
phere. The streets are constantly damp from this 



24;4 A NEW PATH 

source, and sprinkling is unnecessary, and dust a novelty. 
There are few straight and wide streets in London. It 
seems to have been built in a sort of hap-hazard way, 
without plan ; and, of course such a thing as change being 
against the creed of an Englishman, nothing is changed, 
hence the streets in London remain crooked and narrow. 
The architecture of the city is heavy and gloomy. The 
streets are generally well paved, many of them with 
asphaltum. Like all large cities, London is not without 
its public parks of great attraction. Among these are 
St. James, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and the Ken- 
sington gardens. These lie so close to each other that 
one may walk from Charing Cross, the very heart of the 
city, to Bayswater, a distance of three miles, without 
taking one's feet oif the sod. These parks alone em- 
brace six hundred acres, and are very rich and lovely. 

The stores of London, with few exceptions, are small. 
The merchants display wonderful skill in showing goods 
to an advantage in their Avindows, but when you go inside 
you are often not a little disappointed in the size of the 
room and the comparative emptiness of the shelves, the 
window seeming to be the chief receptacle of their 
meagre stocks. But then, there are so many such stores 
in every part of the city, that you can readily and easily 
get what you want. The dealers are the very pink of 
politeness, obliging and accommodating as any people in 
the world. To an American the prices of goods are as- 
tonishingly low, so that one feels like buying large quan- 
tities of all kinds of merchandise. Of course they know 
a man from the States as quickly as they see him, and 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 245 

thej like to sell him goods, for they take it for granted 
that every man that crosses the ocean has oceans of money. 
As a rule the American spends his money more freely 
than any other tourist. 

London has every variety of conveyances for the ac- 
commodation of its vast multitudes. There are a great 
many passenger railways above ground, and a good many 
underground. There is an immense amount of business 
carried on below the city, lumber, coal yards, and as 
many as two or three railway tracks cross and recross 
directly under each other. So densely crowded is every- 
thing that this is now a necessity. But with all this, the 
omnibus, of which there are two thousand in the city, is 
the great vehicle for travel. And the best way to get a 
good idea of the city, is to mount to the top of a double- 
decker, and take a seat alongside the driver, and you will 
get from him a great deal of useful information. These 
men, as well as the conductors of the omnibus lines in 
London, are among the most polite and accommodating 
people in the Avorld. The naming of the streets of this 
great metropolis is a system most perplexing. The name 
of a street is frequently changed every few squares. 
There are within the city limits thirty-seven King streets, 
thirty-five Charles streets, and twenty-nine John streets. 

London is a great, grand old city, full of wonders and 
of untold interest. It is the great business centre of the 
world; being essentially devoted to commerce, everything 
goes on a rush. It is almost a bewildering sight to Avit- 
ness the constant stream of rushing population. Some 
idea of its traffic may be gathered from the fact that in 



246 A NEW PATH 

a single day, between 8 o'clock a. m. and noon, three 
thousand four hundred and fifteen vehicles, and eighteen 
thousand seven hundred and seventy-two pedestrians, 
passed the Mansion house on an average, every hour. 
Twenty-five thousand people cross the London bridge 
every hour. The population of the city is nearly four 
millions, inhabiting nearly half a million houses. Nine 
thousand new houses, it is said, are built in the great 
capital every year, and twenty-eight miles of new streets 
are thus added to it. Eastward and westward the city is 
extending rapidly, while northward it is stretching its 
arms toward Hempstead, Highgate, and even tranquil 
and blooming Finchley. Truly the spirit of this age is 
in strong contrast with that of the time of Henry VIII., 
when (1580), to prevent the increasing size of London, 
all new buildings were forbidden to be erected "where no 
former hath been known to have been." The march of 
improvement nowadays carries everything before it; even 
British conservatism is at some points giving way ; and 
the London of Dry den and Pope, of Addison, Sheridan 
and B^'^ron, will, as time passes, find more and more dif- 
ficulty both in tracing the footsteps of fame and in find- 
ing that sympathetic, reverent spirit which hallows the 
relics of genius and renown. 



CHAPTER XXYII. 

LONDON — ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL — THE WHISPERING GALLERY 
— WESTMINSTER ABBEY— THE TEMPLE OF FAME — THE HOUSE 
OF PARLIAMENT — THE HOUSE OP COMMONS — THE LONDON 
TOWER — CONSECRATED PLACES — THE JEWEL TOWER — THE 
CROWN JEWELS — THE UNFADING CROWN. 

LONDON is a city of so many attractions that one is 
puzzled to know what to select when writing about 
it. Among the many churches, St. PaiiVs cathedral is 
the most worthy of note. The church resembles some- 
what St. Peter's of R6me, though much smaller, and is 
built in the form of a Latin cross. It is so hemmed in 
by streets and houses that it is difficult to find a point of 
view whence the colossal proportions of the building can 
be properly realized. It is the third largest church in 
Christendom, being surpassed only by St. Peter's at 
Rome and the cathedral at Milan. It was the hour for 
morning prayer when we entered, and a large congrega- 
tion was present. The singing was specially inspiring, 
and we much enjoyed the impressive service with our 
English cousins. 

After looking at some of the numerous monuments 
erected in the church by the nation in honor of distin- 
guished men in civil and military life, we ascended the 
dome, stopping in the whispering gallery, which is an 
acoustic Avonder, and another wonder is that it hap- 
(247) 



248 A NEW PATH 

pens to be such not from intention, but merest acci- 
dent. A slight whisper uttered by the wall on one side 
of the gallery is distinctly audible to an ear near the wall 
on the other side, a distance of one hundred and eight 
feet in a direct line, or one hundred and sixty feet round 
the semicircle. From this point there is also obtained a 
fine view of the interior of the church below. We pro- 
ceeded still higher to the Stone galleri/, which runs 
round the foot of the great dome. Here we had an ad- 
mirable view of the city, it being an unusually bright 
morning for London. Though so enticing, we did not go 
to the Golden gallery^ feeling that it would not be just 
to waste all our strength in climbing still higher. We 
retraced our steps and went to the opposite extreme, de- 
scending to the crypt. Here w^e were conducted by a 
polite gentleman into a chamber lighted by four large 
candelabra of polished granite, in the centre of which 
stands the Sarcophagus of the Duke of Wellington, and 
farther on, exactly under the centre of the dome, that of 
Lord NelsoD, the two great representatives of the army 
and navy, of which Englishmen are particularly proud. 
The massive funeral car cast from captured cannon, and 
other trappings of mourning used at the Duke's funeral, 
are close by. There is much interesting history con- 
nected with this church. Near it once stood the cele- 
brated cross of St. Paul, where sermons were preached, 
papal bulls promulgated, heretics made to recant, witches 
to confess, and where the Pope's condemnation of Luther 
was proclaimed in the presence of Wolsey. 

The noted Westminster Ahhey in many respects is per- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 249 

haps the most interesting of all London's many attrac- 
tions. We could scarcely realize on that beautiful Sep- 
tember morning that we were approaching this famous 
pile, the Walhalla of England, or Temple of Fame, about 
which we had heard and read so much. It is not possi- 
ble to describe it so as to give the reader an adequate 
conception of it. As a building, it is of vast proportions 
and of untold richness in historic interest. It is of Gothic 
design, built of fine stone in the form of a cross, and is 
four hundred feet long by two hundred feet wide. It 
was originally founded in A. D. 658, the first building 
being destroyed by the Danes, and afterwards rebuilt in 
A. D. 958, nearly one thousand years ago. In this ven- 
erable structure all the coronations have taken place 
since the days of Edward the Confessor. Here it is 

' ' Where royal head receives the sacred gold ; 

It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep — 

There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep." 

Besides being a place set apart for regular divine ser- 
vices, it is England's Temple of Fame, containing the 
royal burial vaults and long series of monuments to cele- 
brated men. Interment within its walls is considered the 
last and greatest honor which the nation can bestow on 
the most deserving of her offspring. Time, that won- 
derful revealer of so meny men's real character, has 
however disclosed the fact that this honor has been con- 
ferred on some now believed to have been scarcely 
worthy of it. The tombs, monuments and chapels in the 
Abbey are almost innumerable. In one of its most beau- 
tiful chapels — Henry the Seventh's — we stood by the 



250 A NEW PATH 

tomb of the late Dean Stanley, yet freshly adorned with 
an exquisitely beautiful wreath of immortelles^ the tri- 
bute of her Majesty, the Queen, to the memory of the 
great and good man whose mortal remains sleep within 
the inclosure of this celebrated structure. 

In the transept and Poet's Corner we viewed the 
tombs of Milton, Shakespeare, Southey, Campbell, 
Spencer, Ben Jonson, Dryden, Dickens, Addison, and 
many other distinguished poets and writers. These at- 
tract more attention than the tombs of kings and queens, 
being men distinguished for their great intellect rather 
than the accident of birth, and mostly unstained by the 
crimes which mar the characters of so many of those who 
lie in close proximity to them. Our own poet Longfel- 
low has a memorial tablet placed in the group of the 
Poets- Corner, showing in 'what distinguished honor he 
is held by the men of letters among the English people. 

It would require many weeks and even months to in- 
spect, with any degree of minuteness, all that is con- 
tained in this interesting place. It is the spot to which 
may be traced much of England's proudest history, and 
the place will ever continue to make eloquent the ages 
with the lives of those who sleep within this sacred in- 
closure. As you stroll about, the spaciousness and 
gloom of the vast edifice produce a profound and myster- 
ious awe. We step cautiously and softly as if fear- 
ful of disturbing the hallowed silence of the tombs ; 
while every footfall whispers along the walls, and chatters 
among the sepulchres, making us more sensible of the 
quiet we have interrupted. It seems as if the awful 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 251 

nature of the place presses down upon the soul, and 
hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence. We feel 
that we are surrounded by the congregated bones of the 
great men of past times, who have filled history with 
their deeds, and the earth with their renown. 

Contiguous to Westminister Abbey are the Souses of 
Parliament^ or Palace of Westminister. It is a great 
Gothic building, covering eight acres of ground. It is 
not a handsome structure. It is built of a reddish 
sandstone, blackened by the smoke of London. It 
has a frontage on the river Thames of nine hun- 
dred feet, with a beautiful terrace. The whole cost 
is over $8,000,000. It is surmounted by three towers 
— the Victoria Tower being the highest, rising to a 
height of three hundred and fifty feet. The entire build- 
ing has a sort of disjointed appearance about it, lacking 
symmetry and beauty. It reminds one somewhat of the 
Smithsonian Institute in Washington, which has been 
styled "a convention of pepper-boxes." In entering the 
building you pass into a series of narrow passage-ways 
and small chambers, which lead into the House of Lords. 
This is the principal apartment, and is a room one hun- 
dred feet long, forty-five feet wide, with a ceiling of the 
same height. At one end of this chamber is the magnifi- 
cent throne from which her Majesty, the Queen, delivers 
her annual message, and opens or prorogues Parliament. 
No expense has been spared in attempting to make this 
the most splendid chamber in the world. While it con- 
tains much that is of rare beauty and splendor, its pave- 
ment consisting of fine mosaic work, its ceiling pannelled 



252 A NEW PATH 

and gilt, and everything adorned down to the minutest 
details with lavish magnificence ; yet the architect, it is 
apparent, has failed most signally in doing his part. The 
extreme height of the ceiling makes the chamber appear 
much smaller than it really is. Everything seems pro- 
fusely piled together. The Lords sit like boys in a 
country school-house of olden times, on long and broad 
benches, with backs covered with purple morocco and 
stuffed, one rising above the other, whilst the Lord Chan- 
cellor sits on a crimson sack, called the "Woolsack," 
without back or arms, and covered with red cloth. For 
a few moments' rest, we peacefully usurped the Chan- 
cellor's place. The Lords have no desks nor anything to 
hoist their heels upon like our members of Congress, 
unless it be on the shoulders of the noble Lords sitting in 
long rows on the benches below them. There is a small 
gallery into which are packed the aristocracy, and a 
smaller space for other folks, who may sit there by special 
permission. The House of Commons is the same in size 
and structure, gaudily decorated with paintings and 
statues, but not much larger and not half so comfortable 
as that occupied by any one of our State legislatures. 
And this is the great House of Parliament in England ! 
Neither externally no;* internally does it in anywise com- 
pare with the Capitol at Washington and its legislative 
halls. 

The Tower of London^ supposed to have been com- 
menced by Julius Csesar, was next visited. It stands on 
the banks of the Thames, and covers twelve acres, within 
which are numerous buildings or apartments, including the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 253 

barracks, the armory in which are kept sixtj thousand 
stand of arms, the Jewel House, the White Tower, the 
Bloody Tower where Richard III. murdered his nephews, 
the Brick Tower in which Lady Jane Grey was impris- 
oned. We passed through all these, and many other 
departments. In addition to the Tower's original use as 
a fortress, it w^as the residence of the monarchs of Eng- 
land down to the time of Elizabeth, and a prison for state 
criminals. Numerous are the kings, queens, warriors, 
and statesmen, who have not only been imprisoned, but 
murdered within its walls. The histories of Lady Jane 
Grey, Catharine Howard, Anne Boleyn, Sir Walter 
Raleigh, Lord William Russell, Sir Thomas More, Wil- 
liam Wallace, and Kir|g John of France — do they not 
live in the memories of every reader of history? Imme- 
diately in front of the Tower is marked the spot where 
the scaffold was erected upon which Lady Jane Grey and 
Anne Boleyn, and a number of other female prisoners 
were executed. The White Tower was the prison of Sir 
Walter Raleigh, and here is exhibited the veritable block 
upon which he was beheaded. The inscriptions cut in 
the stone walls in all these towers by the prisoners are 
most curious and interesting, and are religiously pre- 
served. That attributed to Lady Jane Grey was traced 
on the wall with a pin as follows : 

"To mortals' connnon fate thy mind resign. 
My lot to-day, to-morrow may be thine. ' ' 

Many of these gloomy dungeons are consecrated spots 
— consecrated with the tears and prayers of the righteous 
13 



254 A NEW PATH 

— and are still eloquent with devotion to the principles of 
our holy Christianity. 

The most interesting place, especially to the ladies, is 
the Jewel Tower, containing a circular iron cage, about 
twelve feet in diameter, in which are exhibited all the 
crown jewels and royal regalia. It is a splendid sight; 
the whole collection is w^orth over twenty millions of dol- 
lars. Prominent among the jewels is the crown made for 
the coronation of Queen Victoria, which, the custodian 
assured us, cost one million of dollars. The great Koh- 
i-noor diamond is also among the collection, and is the 
property of the Queen. It is about as large as an Eng- 
lish walnut. There is also the crown made for the cor- 
onation of Charles II., and worn by all the sovereigns 
of England since his time; the crown of the Prince of 
Wales ; the crown made for the coronation of the Queen 
of James II., also her ivory sceptre; St. Edward's staff 
of solid gold ; the royal sceptre of solid gold, ornamented 
with precious stones ; the state salt-cellar, the coronation 
spoon, and the baptismal font for christening the royal 
children, with numerous swords and other valuable relics. 
The crown of her majesty Queen Victoria is a cap of 
purple velvet, inclosed in hoops of silver, surmounted by 
a ball and cross, all of which are resplendent with dia- 
monds. In the centre of the cross is the "inestimable 
sapphire," and in front of die crown is the heart-shaped 
ruby said to have been worn by the Black Prince. These 
crowns will all fade, but not so the crown which Christ 
gives to his followers. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

LONDON— THE BRITISH MUSEUM— SYDENHAM CRYSTAL PALACE — 
BUCKINGHAM PALACE — ST. JAMES'S PARK — ST. JAMES'S COURT 
— MADAME TUSSAUD"s WAX WORKS — DRUNKENNESS IN LONDON. 

AMONG the most interesting and instructive places to 
visit in London is the British Museum. It is a rich 
store-house of treasures, especially for the student and 
scholar. Its zoological collection is corisidered the sec- 
ond best in the world. ^ Its library numbers nearly one 
million of volumes, and its Egyptian antiquities are un- 
surpassed. Its marbles are very extensive, comprising 
the famous Elgin, Phigalean, and Townley collections, 
with a large assortment of modern works. The number 
of MSS., prints, relics and antiquities, and drawings, is 
immense. Among the autograph writings of celebrated 
men, we noticed one of Luther, Calvin, Melanchthon, 
Byron, Washington, Michael Angelo, and numerous 
others ; and besides these, the last letter that Charles 
Dickens is known to have written. It is written with 
blue ink, and fully sustains the reputation of distinguished 
men for a miserable handwriting. We also noticed the 
original Magna Charta of King John (1215). In an- 
other case is preserved the prayer-book of Lady Jane 
Grey, and the will of Mary, Queen of Scots. 

It was a satisfaction, as well as a matter of much inter- 
(255) 



256 A NEW PATH 

est, to examine the typographical specimens in illustra- 
tion of the history of printing, and to see, among the 
earliest German printed books, the Mazarin Bible, the 
first printed Bible, printed by Gutenberg and Faust 
(Mayence, 14e55). Among the books bearing the auto- 
graphs of the authors or early owners is the Wittenberg 
Bible of 1541, with Luther's signature. Among these 
collections are included Luther's ninety-five theses against 
the Indulgence of 1517. Near these is a case containing 
a volume of the Codex Alexandrinus and the books of 
Genesis and Exodus according to the Syriac version. 
This Syrian MS. was written in A. D. 464, and is be- 
lieved to be the oldest dated MS. of any portion of the 
Bible now extant. But avc cannot detain ourselves to 
name even the smallest portion of this wealth of collec- 
tions in art, literature, and science. 

From the Museum we go to see the Crystal Palace- at 
Sydenham. This magnificent building is four hundred 
feet long and one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, 
with numerous transepts, and consists entirely of glass 
and iron. " The view from this palace is one of the most 
lovely in Great Britian. The gardens are most delight- 
ful; their beautiful walks, serpentine streams, statues, 
fountains, and lawns, render it unsurpassed in beauty. 
Here one can purchase almost everything that is of utility, 
manufactured on the spot. It is, in fact, a vast manufac- 
turing emporium of the highest order. A portion of the 
building is appropriated to tropical trees and plants ; to 
courts of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman sculpture ; courts 
of Assyria, Alhambra, Germany, and Italy. Copies of 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 257 

the masterpieces of all the great sculptors of both ancient 
and modern times arc here, so that those who cannot 
visit Florence and Rome to see the works of Michael 
Angelo and other great masters may here see their re- 
productions. If Italy holds the originals, the best thing 
England can do is to have almost perfect copies. There 
are also immense halls filled with the productions, both 
natural and mechanical, of Asia, Africa, and America ; 
picture galleries, museums and refreshment saloons ; in 
short, everything to please the eye and gratify the appe- 
tite. It is a good place to which the weary and tired 
Londoner, as well as tourist, may resort with profit for 
rest. There is ample provision made for all kinds of 
amusements, conceits, and picnics. Children's concerts 
are very common ; as many as three and four thousand 
little ones often sing here, and thirty thousand persons 
attend. In the central part of the building is the great 
Handel Orchestra, which can accommodate four thou- 
sand persons. In the middle stands a powerful organ 
with 4,568 pipes. An excellent orchestra plays here in 
the afternoon and evening, and concerts are given every 
Saturday under the leadership of distingaished musicians. 
In every respect this palace is a place of great beauty, of 
many attractions, and of decided comfort. 

But we did not forget to go and see at least one of the 
many palaces of her Majesty, the Queen, and for want of 
time, selected the Buckingham Palace. This has been 
the Queen's residence since 1837 during her stay in the 
city. Admittance could not be gained, and therefore we 
cannot, from personal knowledge, describe the internal 



258 A NEW PATH 

beauties of this palace. It has the appearance, exter- 
nally, of genuine royalty, in its exquisite beauty and solid, 
massive construction. The park (the St. James) in 
which it stands, with its beautiful clump of trees, its 
winding expanse of water-fowl, and the charming views 
it aifords of the stately buildings around it, combine to 
set forth its tranquil charms, and make this one of the 
most lovely and attractive places in London. To the 
north, between Buckingham Palace and Piccadilly, lies 
the Green Park, which is seventy acres in extent — a 
lovely picture of rest, calm retirement, and smiling plenty, 
to the lambs that skipped in joyful glee on the rich green, 
in the golden haze of that beautiful September morning. 
Near by is St. Jameses Palace, sm irregular brick 
building, which was the residence of the sovereigns of 
England previous to Victoria's occupation of Buckingham 
Palace. The Queen still holds her drawing-rooms here. 
This palace is rich in historical associations, not all hon- 
orable to royalty. George IV. was born here ; so also 
was the son of James II. by Mary of Modena. 'Tis 
said the child, who was the old Pretender, was conveyed 
in a warming-pan from his mother's bed to that of the 
Queen, who occupied the great bedchamber. Here died 
Queen Mary I. ; also Henry, the son of James I.; here 
Charles I. took the last leave of his children. On the 
north side of the palace is the Chapel Royal, in which 
the queen and some of the highest nobility have seats 
during divine services on the Lord's day. The marriage 
of Queen Victoria with Prince Albert, and those of some 
of their daughters, were celebrated in this chapel. Down 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 259 

to the death of Prince Albert, in 1861, the Queen's 
levees and draivi'rig -rooms were always held in St. 
James's Palace. Since then, however, the drawing- 
rooms have taken place at Buckingham Palace, but the 
levees are still held here. A levee differs from a draw- 
ing-room in this respect, that at the former, gentlemen 
only are presented to the sovereign, while at the latter 
it is almost entirely ladies who are introduced. Richly 
dressed ladies ; gentlemen, magnificent in gold-laced uni- 
forms ; lackeys in gorgeous liveries, knee-breeches, silk 
stockings, and powdered hair, and bearing enormous 
bouquets ; well-fed coachmen with carefully curled wigs 
and three-cornered hats ; splendid carriages and horses, 
which dash along through the densely-packed masses of 
spectators ; and a mounted band of the Life Guards, 
playing in front of the Palace ; — such, so far as can be 
seen by the spectators who crowd the adjoining streets, 
windows, and balconies, are the chief ingredients in the 
august ceremony of a "Queen's Drawing-Room." A 
notice of the drawing-room, with the names of the ladies 
presented, appears next day in the newspapers. 

In the group of many stately, say royaJ^ buildings 
here, we had pointed out to us by our Scotch friend, are 
the residences of the Prince of Wales, the Duke of 
Sutherland — the latter being considered the finest private 
mansion in London— and that of the Grand Duchess. In 
the Court of St. James, we were favored with the finest 
instrumental music of our life. Here the bands of the 
Grenadier, Coldstream, or Fusilier Guards, play for a 
quarter of an hour daily at 11 a. m. The Grenadiers 



260 A NEW PATH 

played the morning we were there. There were fifty 
performers. They compose the Queen's band. In con- 
nection with this performance, the guard of the palace 
paraded, which is a body-guard of magnificent soldiers, of 
most striking uniform. In this body of men are repre- 
sentatives from all parts of the British dominion. The 
parade connected with the band of music was the most 
brilliant military display we ever witnessed. In the 
Wellington Barracks, near by, are quartered a battalion 
of Royal Foot Guards, who paraded the same morning. 
These soldiers all measure six feet and over in height, 
and look as if they might be a formidable foe in time of 
battle. 

One of our evenings in London we spent in seeing 
Madame Tussaud^s Wax Works. The spacious halls 
were full of curious visitors, and among these not a few 
from the States. From morning until 10 o'clock at night 
there is a constant throng of visitors to this popular re- 
sort, and it would be a great oversight, as well as an un- 
pardonable deviation from common custom, for an Amer- 
^ ican to visit London and not go to see this fine collection 
of wax works on Baker street. One is greatly astonished 
at the perfection in expression of countenance, likeness, 
and dress of the distinguished persons represented, so 
that at first sight the efiect is peculiarly pleasing. In 
our verdancy, upon our entrance, we were about to ad- 
dress an inquiry to one of these figures, who happened 
to be a representation of a policeman. We tJiink to this 
day yet that we corrected ourselves in time, so as not to 
incur the smiles of the many who saw us entering the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 261 

hall. These figures are all life-size, and of great num- 
bers, embracing many of the most distinguished charac- 
ters in history, kings and murderers of both sexes, of 
many generations. The whole royal family are here in 
court dress — the infant children of the Prince of Wales 
among them ; these look angelic. The late Czar of Rus- 
sia, with his weeping family around him, lies in state 
here. The scene is truly impressive, and very natural. 

The group that attracts the attention of Americans 
most, perhaps, is that of Abraham Lincoln, Gen. Grant, 
and Andrew Johnson. The latter is a good likeness, but 
the other two are rather poor. Near these stands the 
lamented Garfield, which is far from being as good a like- 
ness as many others. Martin Luther looks well in the 
group of Knox, Calvin, and Mary, Queen of Scots. If a 
visitor happens to take a seat on one of the ottomans in- 
terspersed among the " figgers," it is sometimes difiicult 
for a moment to decide " which is which." Mrs. Jarley 
is certainly distanced by Madame Tussaud. 

In closing this chapter, we cannot refrain from record- 
ing our great astonishment both at the extent and daring 
boldness of the unblushing drunkenness one sees in Lon- 
don. Drinking and its consequent disturbances of the 
peace, are not confined to the small and out-of-the-way 
places in the city, but are practiced to an alarming extent 
in many of the most fashionable and finest streets. In a 
few hours' walk, within half a mile of Trafalgar Square, 
on Saturday afternoon and evening, we passed great 
numbers of reeling drunkards of both sexes, — women 
with little children in their arms, dancing and carousing 
13* 



262 ' A NEW PATH 

in the middle of the street. The '^gin mills " and rum- 
meries and " corner groceries," are as numerous as in 
some of our narrow thoroughfares, and both men and 
women could be seen in great crowds at the counters, im- 
bibing, and engaged in noisy controversy. If such was 
the aspect of affairs in the middle of the day, it is not 
difficult to imagine what it must be after night-fall. It is 
an alarming fact to every thoughtful Englishman that, 
at the present rate of drinking and drunkenness, their 
people are fast becoming a nation of drunkards. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

SPURGEON — LONDON'S GREAT PREACHER — IITS CHURCH — THE 
SERMON — OUR IMPRESSION — THE HOME OF INDUSTRY — MISS 
MCPHERSON — THE DARK SIDE OF LONDON — ECUMENICAL CON- 
FERENCE OP METHODISM — BUN HILL FIELDS — BUNYAN — JOHN 
WESLKY — DANIEL DE FOE— SOME REFLECTIONS ON ENGLISH 
CHARACTER. 

EVERY foreigner who comes to London, of course goes 
to hear London's great preacher, the Rev. C H. Spur- 
geon. One must go e^ily if he expects to get a seat, or 
even standing-room. It was a pleasant Lord's day morn- 
ing in September, when we attended service at the Taber- 
nacle. Having been favored with a ticket by an English 
friend, we were at once admitted into the church, though 
not to a permanent seat. All pew-holders have a first 
right, and their seats are reserved until ten minutes be- 
fore the service begins. Up to this time all visitors who 
have gained an entrance within the building are seated 
on benches along the wall, when, at a given signal, the 
ushers proceed to seat the strangers. We were fortu- 
nate in being invited to a choice seat, being within thirty 
feet of the celebrated preacher, and at the same time also 
had a good view of the great congregation. 

As to the church edifice, it is an immense structure, 
plain, substantially built of stone, having seats for seven 
thousand people. The front is ornamented with a row 
(263) 



264 A NEW PATH 

of Corinthian columns which supports a portico, under 
which you pass into the Tabernacle. There are two 
tiers of galleries going entirely around the audience- 
chamber, and extending far into the building. At the 
front of the first tier is the pulpit or platform. The 
preacher stands sixty feet from the rear wall, and his 
hearers by the thousands above and behind him, as well 
as in front and on his side. There is no " great gulf 
fixed" between him and his hearers. He is entirely sur- 
rounded by his vast audience. Under the platform from 
which he speaks, and extending beyond it, is the choir, 
composed of one hundred persons, fifty being boys, of 
possibly fourteen years of age. The chorister stands by 
Mr. Spurgeon's side during the singing. There is no or- 
gan, but there is rousing singing, for every one is sup- 
plied with a book, and all sing. It would be difficult 
not to join in. The choir does no fine performing to the 
edification (?) of the audience. All join in worship. 
It is hardly necessary to say that the vast Tabernacle 
was full, for is is always full, and that in " all weathers.y 
Promptly at 11 a. m., Mr. Spurgeon entered by the 
first tier of galleries, and took his seat at a small table 
containing a hymn-book and a Bible. Mr. Spurgeon is 
ungraceful in appearance, short and thick-set, with high 
shoulders and short neck. His head is large and round, 
his face full and set with short brown whiskers. His eye 
is very striking, small, but penetrating and full of fire. 
He reminded us somewhat of Joseph Cook. Perhaps at 
first sight the impressson is one of disappointment, as it 
would seem impossible to reasonably expect any thing, ex- 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 265 

traordinary from so ordinary and "material" looking a 
man. In his manner of conducting services he is ener- 
getic, earnest, and impressive. Two hymns are sung and 
two prayers offered before the sermon. The reference to 
President Garfield in the second prayer was very touch- 
ing. The old custom of hning out the hymns is still ad- 
hered to. In his prayers, Mr. Spurgeon is as remarkable 
as in his sermons. During prayer we felt that we were 
in the presence of a man who felt that he was in the pres- 
ence of God. Many of his utterances are not only touch- 
ing, but marvellously striking. Here is one : '^ May the 
thunder of thy power make us ashamed of the littleness of 
our faith !" In reading the Scriptures before the sermon, 
he commented on each verse, making practical application 
of its meaning. This was a pleasing and edifying part of 
the service. His text was 1 Cor. xiii. 7 : " Charity bear- 
eth all things, believeth all things, hopeth all things, en- 
dureth all things." His theme was: Lovers labors. 

1. The multitude of lovers difficulties. 

2. The triumphs of lovers labor. 

3. The sources of love's energy. 

It was a great sermon in every respect, and at once 
fully explained to us how it is that this man has for thirty 
years preached with unabated interest and signal success 
to the largest congregations of any living preacher. He 
speaks without notes, and becomes sublimely eloquent. 
He is not a sensationalist, as some have averred, but a 
great, grand, glorious gospel preacher. He is tender, 
direct, plain, striking in his utterances, fluent, original, 
bold, incisive, and eminently scriptural. He has what 



266 A NEW PATH 

some might call "peculiarities, but nothing to detract from 
the dignity of the sacred desk, or the Christian ministry. 
It certainly is a blessing and a pleasure to hear such 
preaching. There evidently is much earnest Christianity 
in Mr. Spnrgeon's congregation, for his preaching will of 
necessity produce it. We expected much, and were not 
disappointed. As the preacher closed we could scarcely 
believe that we had been listening forty minutes. We 
were also present at the Thursday evening lecture, which 
was nearly as largely attended as the Sunday service. 
The Sunday morning sermon is printed and offered for 
sale at a penny per copy by members of the church after 
the Thursday evenino; service. 

After the benediction on Sunday morning we felt some 
one touching us on the shoulder, and on looking round 
were approached by a middle-aged lady, who at the same 
time apologized for her freedom. " I presume," she 
said, "you are a clergyman, and from the States." My 
reply was, "Yes, madame, but I hardly think I look like 
one." (After the wear and tear of a tour over the 
Continent, it seemed to us that least of all did we have 
the appearance of a clergyman.) "But I infer that you 
are," said the woman, "from the deep interest you took 
in the sermon, and the notes you were taking at times." 
This woman proved to be the good Miss McPherson, so 
well known in London and in Canada as an eminent 
Christian worker among the lost and outcast of that great 
city. She invited us to visit her institution, the Home 
of Industry, in East London, at four o'clock that after- 
noon. We consented, and found the place at the time 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 26T 

appointed. We were cordially welcomed and conducted 
to an upper room on the second floor of the building, 
where we found this good Christian woman engaged in 
talking to a large number of co-workers in the cause of 
reclaiming poor and lost waifs of society from the slums 
of sin and infamy in East London. After hearing Miss 
McPherson talk, we concluded there ivere meetings in 
which women had a right to speak, for surely no one can 
speak like this woman did without help from God. It 
was a blessing to us to hear her, and we do not see how 
it could be otherwise to all present. After her eminently 
biblical talk, she presented in the most touching manner 
two little girls who knew no home and no parents, picked 
up that day (in the streets) and received them into the 
Home, where she had already a large number of such. 
These poor creatures are gatliered into this Home during 
the summer and winter and formed into classes for 
religious instruction, and in the month of May Miss 
McPherson brings hundreds of them over to America 
and Canada, where homes have previously been provided 
for them in good families. It is a blessed work, and 
this good woman will have many stars in her crown out 
of the multitude she is gathering from the snares of the 
evil one. We were urged to remain and take tea at the 
Home with the corps of missionaries engaged with this 
Christian lady. This will always be a pleasant reminis- 
cence in our life in London. In the evening we accom- 
panied, by invitation, several of the young men to a 
number of London's lodging-houses, where they held 
religious services. The sights in these places no pen can 



268 A NEW PATH 

picture, and few strangers coming to London ever see. 
One would not think that man could sink to such depths 
of infamy as come to view here. They are the hives of 
thousands out of every grade of society, reaching every 
stage of crime and sin possible to degraded beings. 
They pay a few pennies per week for lodging here. 
They live by theft and murder. Yet these missionaries 
give them not up as lost, but go among them with the 
gospel, and do reclaim some. 

Later on in the evening, in company with Miss Mc- 
Pherson and several young men, we visited ten of the 
mission stations under her charge. These mission- 
points are in the very worst parts of East London, a very 
refuge for those who can be induced to forsake the ways 
of infamy. In one mission house ten different languages 
are employed in teaching the gospel. There are but few 
places of sin to which this Miss McPherson and her band 
have not access, and they have no delicacy in improving 
every opportunity. To all, they hold up Christ as the 
Saviour of sinners. To any one else, not in company 
with these Christian workers, an entrance into this part 
of London, by day or night, would be sure misfortune if 
not death itself. But Miss McPherson and her band 
move among the vile and degraded with perfect impunity, 
and as veritable angels of light. This woman accom- 
plishes great good. Her work is acknowledged by all 
Christian people as marvellous. It is the power of God. 
The Queen contributes largely in support of this work. 
What we saw and heard that night was the other side 
of London, which is not the bright eide. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 269 

During our stay in London the Ecumenical Conference 
of Methodism was holding its sessions in City Road 
Chapel, erected by John Wesley, and where he preached 
to the end of his life. We attended parts of several ses- 
sions. It was a large and interesting assembly. Papers 
were read on various subjects previously assigned. To a 
Lutheran some of its proceedings were anything but edi- 
fying. To hear of the persistent missionary operations 
carried on by the Methodist church in Sweden and in 
parts of Germany, where least of all missionary work, in 
the true sense of the word, is needed, was the next thing 
to a vexation. To one who knows how well supplied those 
parts of the world are with gospel privileges of every kind, 
it is a mystery how any Christian denomination can, with 
a good conscience, busy itself in making converts, not to 
Christianity, but to its own sectary. Such a spirit is not 
a genuine missionary spirit according to the gospel. It 
is well known that there is no country in the world, that 
in every way approaches nearer the high standard of New 
Testament Christianity than Sweden ; yet the great Meth- 
odist Episcopal church feels itself called upon to send 
large numbers of missionaries among this people. If the 
object is to proselyte good material from another greater 
church, then the Methodist Episcopal church has wisely 
selected. We greatly prefer her taste to her zeal. The 
primitive Methodists in England, with but a slight varia- 
tion, retain the entire service of the Church of England. 
This did not suit the delegates from America, and at 
home they would not submit to it. The delegates, too, 
from this side, were not a little shocked to have wines 



270 A NEW PATH 

and even stronger drinks freely handed round to them by 
their hosts ; and not only did the lay, but also the clerical, 
indulge in this luxury (?) of treating their guests. This 
we were told by one of the regular clerical delegates 
from the States. It would seem again from this that the 
Germans are not the only people in the world who have 
to bear the sin of using " a little wine (and beer, too,) for 
their stomach's sake and their often infirmities." 

The colored delegates from America to this conference 
really were the lions of the day. A colored gentleman 
is quite a curiosity in London, and a little more so in a 
large ecclesiastical assembly. Some of the more ambi- 
tious delegates from America did not greatly relish this 
state of things ; but the Englishman being about as fond 
of novelty as the American, the gentleman of color many 
times received the preference. 

In the rear of this church (City Road Chapel), lie 
the remains of John Wesley, under a plain marble monu- 
ment, surrounded by a plain iron fence. On the side of 
the tomb is inscribed the following : '' Reader, if thou 
art constrained to bless the instrument, give God the 
glory." By the side of the church stands the three- 
story parsonage in which Wesley died. The church is 
substantially built of brick, well furnished, with gallery, 
and has a seating capacity of about one thousand. 

On the opposite side of the street is the Bun Hill 
Field Cemetery. It is a quaint but beautiful and invit- 
ing spot. Here we stood by the grave of John Bunyan, 
the immortal dreamer, and author of " Pilgrim's Prog- 
ress." It is a plain tomb ; his age is inscribed on the 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 271 

side of it, as having been sixty years. Here also sleeps 
the motlier of the Wesleys, and the flat tombs of stone 
and marble are still pointed out on which John Wesley 
stood and preached. In the same cemetery are buried 
Daniel De Foe, Isaac Watts, Adam Clark, Richard Watt- 
son, and a host of other worthies whose dust awaits the 
voice of God, but whose spirits dwell with the redeemed. 

But Ave must get ready to take our departure even 
from lovely England and enjoyable London. We greatly 
enjoyed our visit among the English people, who are 
always pleasant, polite and intelligent. At the English 
inns we enjoyed also the cleanliness, but not the dinners 
so much, nor the solemn silence ; and were so besieged 
by chamber-maids, waiters and " boots" for a sixpence, 
that we resolved to show our gratitude for freedom from 
such annoyances in this country by a generous contri- 
bution to every good cause at home. 

Among the many things we admired among the English 
is their independent spirit, and their respect for all who 
indulge the same feeling. The American, for instance, 
who believes he can win English esteem by sinking his 
Americanism, knows little of the English. If they them- 
selves conform to nobody, they expect nobody to conform 
to them. Aping English manners, or paying court to 
English prejudices, is the last way in which a foreigner 
may expect to conciliate English good-will. They like 
above all things, though they don't always know it, an 
exotic flavor. They respect above all things genuineness 
of character. They expect a man to be himself, and not 
somebody else — an American if he is lucky enough to be 



272 A NEW PATH 

born under the Stars and Stripes, or a Turk if he owes 
allegiance to the Crescent. The American accent, as they 
call it, is heard with pleasure in England. The most 
frivolous society is of one mind on this point with the most 
serious. What society wants above all things is to be 
interested, and the surest way to interest is to be novel. 

If we are allowed another reflection on English charac- 
ter before closing this chapter, we remark that one of the 
strongest instincts of the English character is the instinct 
of permanence. It acts involutarily, it pervades the na- 
tional life, and, as Pope said of the universal soul, it 
operates unspent. '^Institutions seem to have grown out 
of human nature in this country, and are as much its ex- 
pression as blossoms, leaves and flowers are the expression 
of inevitable law." A custom in England once estab- 
lished is seldom or never changed. The brilliant career, 
the memorable achievement, the great character, once ful- 
filled, takes a permanent shape in some kind of outward 
and visible memorial, some absolute and palpable fact, 
which thenceforth is an accepted part of the history of 
the land and the experience of the people. England 
means stability — the fireside and the altar, home here 
and heaven hereafter ; and this is the secret of the power 
that she wields in the affairs of the world, and the charm 
that she diffiises over the domain of thought. Such a 
temple as St. Paul's Cathedral, such a palace as Hampton 
Court, such a castle as that of Windsor or that of War- 
wick, is the natural, spontaneous expression of the Eng- 
lish instinct of permanence ; and it is in memorials like 
these that England has written her history. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

FROM ENGLAND INTO SCOTLAND — EDINBURGH — THE SIR WALTER 
SCOTT MONUMENT — CALTON HILL — THE NELSON, BURNS AND 
NATIONAL MONUMENTS — HOLYROOD PALACE AND ABBEY — 
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS — HIGH STREET — JOHN KNOX's HOUSE — 
ST. GILES' CATHEDRAL — PARLIAMENT HOUSE — MID-LOTHIAN — 
MANUSCRIPT OF SCOTT'S WAYERLEY— THE CASTLE. 

1]^ a gloomy London drizzle we made our way to 
King's Cross Station on the Great Northern Railway, 
to take our final leave of London and to go over into Scot- 
land. There stood th^ splendid express known as the 
"Flying Scotsman." Its reputation is far-reaching and 
well deserved. It leaves King's Cross terminus at 10 
a. m., stops half an hour for dinner at York, and reaches 
Waverley Station in Edinburgh at 7 p. m. The rate of 
speed being seldom less than fifty, and often more than 
sixty miles per hour, makes this one of the quickest runs 
of which we have any record. In our journey we passed 
through many beautiful and historic towns, as well as 
some fine country scenery. 

As we approach Stevenage we are reminded that 
here the abbots of Westminster had their manor lands, 
and also of the place where Charles Dickens found the 
original hermit described in one of his Christmas tales — 
Mr. Mopes. And now we are in the fen country, some 
seventy miles from London, and soon reach Peter- 
borough. In an hour more we come to Scrooby, where 

(273) 



274 A NEW PATH 

a little Christian community of Independents was gath- 
ered long ago, who went from Scrooby to Boston, from 
Boston to Holland, from Holland in the Mayflower to the 
New World, and founded the Pilgrim Father Church. 
Presently York is reached and we look upon its stately 
minster. It was here that Constantine the Great was 
proclaimed Emperor. York minster has probably an 
older and wider reputation than any Cathedral in Eng- 
land. It was founded in the seventh century, erected in 
its present form in 1171, but not completed till three 
hundred years afterwards. It was the centre from which 
Christianity spread through the country north, of the 
Humber. The day is now far advanced, and the rainfall 
has greatly increased. The harvest just cut suffers from 
the wet, and many shocks of wheat are green with a 
second growth. 

We must hasten on and pass by unnoticed many places 
of interest. Evening is now upon us, and as we skirt 
along the coast of the German ocean, we hear the boom 
and melancholy roar which remind us of other days. At 
Berwick on Tweed we cross over into Scotland. This 
place was for many centuries the military key of Scot- 
land. It was frequently taken by assault, and there is 
scarcely a foot of ground in the neighborhood that has 
not been the scene of terrible conflict. Some time after 
dark, Edinburgh was reached, and we found a pleasant 
home at the " Crown Hotels 

Edinburgh is a grand city. It has not undeservedly 
received the title of the "modern Athens." It consists 
of the old and new towns. They are separated by a deep 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 275 

valley, formerly occupied by water, and called the North 
Loch. Now it is a great railway terminus, standing amid 
pleasure-grounds in the heart of the city. The architec- 
ture of the old town is characterized by what has been 
justly called picturesque disorder; that of the new, by 
chaste design, massive outline, and symmetrical propor- 
tions. It is decidedly a solid city, and the modern por- 
tions of it very beautiful, built mostly of gray sandstone. 
Its streets are wide, well paved, and remarkable for clean- 
liness. There is, however, a singular absence of shade 
trees. The city has many massive public buildings of 
elegant architecture, and is renowned for its monuments 
and charitable institutions, evincing among its people a 
degree of patriotism and public spirit of which few cities 
in Europe can boast. 

Among the points of special interest and most worthy 
of being seen, we mention the monument to Sir Walter 
Scott. It stands within East Princess street gardens. 
It bears a general resemblance to the most admired ex- 
amples of monumental crosses, of the largest proportions, 
being one hundred and ninety feet in height. A stair of 
two hundred and eighty-seven steps conducts to the top ; 
and from its thirteen different galleries fine views are ob- 
tained of Sir Walter's '^oayu romantic town." In the 
niches are statues of the most familiar characters in his 
novels and poems — such as Prince Charles, Meg Merri- 
lies. The Last Minstrel, The Lady of the Lake, and Rob 
Roy. Under its canopy is the marble statue of Sir Wal- 
ter Scott, attended by his favorite dog Be vis. For archi- 
tectural beauty there is nothing even in Paris to compare 



2T6 A NEW PATH 

with this monument; and jet, strange to say, the design 
was made by a self-taught architect, Mr. Kemp. It was 
erected in 1844, and cost nearly one hundred thousand 
dollars. 

But now we go to the top of Calton Hill, from which, 
perhaps, the most comprehensive view of Edinburgh and 
its surroundings is obtained. From it both the old and 
new town are seen at a glance, the former with its dense 
masses of lofty houses — some ten stories high — crowning 
the ridge leading up to the castle. In the distance 
tower the highlands and " King Arthur's Seat." The 
latter derives its name, as is known to the student of his- 
tory, from the fact that tradition designates it as the 
spot from which King Arthur looked down upon the 
scene of his victory over the Saxons. 

Calton Hill is studded with monuments and public 
buildings. Here is Burns' monument, an elegant struct- 
ure, forming a small temple, surrounded by twelve burn- 
ished marble pillars. The circular tower, one hundred feet 
in height, on the summit of the Hill, is Nelson's monument. 
It is built of massive brown stone, and whilst very fine, 
looks somewhat like a lighthouse. It is used as a time- 
signal. Near by stands the National monument, an un- 
finished structure, which was intended to commemorate 
the Scotchmen who fell in the battles consequent on the 
French Revolution. The design is after the Parthenon 
at Athens, and it was commenced in 1822. To the left 
of this are Playfair's and Dugald Stewart's monuments. 

But let us now pass from the new over into the old 
part of the city, and go to see Holy rood Palace. This 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. ^77 

Palace, by reason of its connection with the career of the 
beautiful Mary, Queen of Scots, is perhaps the greatest at- 
traction in the city of Edinburgh. Queen Mary's apart- 
ments are here shown, with her bed in the same state as 
when last occupied by her. Here is her furniture, all 
faded and moth-eaten ; tables, work-stands, and the work- 
basket she used, and also some specimens of needle-work 
executed by her during her imprisonment. A melan- 
choly sadness invests the place. The bed-chamber is 
possibly twenty feet square, with rather low ceiling, of 
carved oak, and the walls are hung with decaying tapestry. 
One is keenly impressed by these surroundings with the 
story of sorrow and crime which connect them with the 
olden time. The small ^closet adjoining the bed-chamber 
was the favorite retreat of the Queen, and it w^as in this 
room that the slaughter of David Rizzio, her secretary, 
took place, despite the prayers and commands of the 
Queen. The secret stairway in the wall by which Darn- 
ley and the rest of the conspirators gained access to the 
Queen's apartments, is also pointed out, as well as the 
spot at the head of the stairs where the body of Rizzio 
was placed after the tragedy had been enacted. The 
faded window-curtain is pulled aside to show you the 
blood-stain in the oaken floor where Rizzio lay dead — if 
you have faith to believe that part of the story — for three 
centuries have passed since that fatal night of lawless 
love and relentless vengeance. A fine staircase on the 
southwest corner of the piazza of the palace leads to the 
royal apartments, which have been elegantly fitted up, 
and in modern times are honored by the presence of her 
13 



278 A NEW PATH 

majesty Queen Victoria and the royal family, who make 
it ^their stopping-place on their way to the Queen's 
private country-seat in the Highlands of Scotland. The 
room, called the Presence Chamber, in which Queen 
Mary met and had an interview with John Knox, is still 
pointed out. 

Connected with Holyrood, is the Abbey, the old chapel 
royal. It is impossible to look at this venerable ruin 
without intense interest. Within its now crumbling walls 
Queen Mary was married to Darnley; in it Anne of 
Denmark, Queen of James lY., was crowned in 1590. 
Here Charles I. was crowned, and here in the royal vault 
repose David II., James II., James Y. and his queen, 
and Henry, Lord Darnley. 

From Holyrood we pass up High Street to the Castle. 
Though this street is now occupied by the poorer inhabi- 
tants, its houses were at one time the residences of the 
nobility and gentry ; and some of them have very inter- 
esting associations connected with literary men. There 
is no place in the city so full of old associations as 
this long street, which, under various names, reaches 
from Holyrood up to the Castle ; every step of the way 
is full of interest ; the wonderfully tall old houses, with 
their dark winding stairs, and peaks and gables, all have 
a history. 

Out of those same windows, the high-born beauties of 
long ago looked on bonny Prince Charlie, on gallant 
Montrose dragged to his death, on lovely, hapless Queen 
Mary, and on staunch John Knox. Down some of these 
narrow "wynds," or alleys, reeking now with every kind 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 279 

of evil odor, you may find traces of green grass and 
stunted bushes, the remains of ancient gardens. In these 
gloomy courts, the houses rising story upon story, slat- 
ternly women screaming to each other out of their win- 
dows, dirty children at play in the gutters or on the 
filthy stairs, lived the lords and ladies of generations 
past. 

Some of these Closes, as they are called, keep their 
ancient names in the midst of the dirt and squalor, bring- 
ing back a whiff of long ago. There is '• Lady Stair's 
Close," where the countess of Stair lived for many years 
when at the head of the fashionable society of Edinburgh. 
"James' Court," vt^here Boswell lived, and where John- 
son used to roll in to have a cup of tea with him. In 
" Baxter's Close," Burns had a room. David Hume 
wrote a great part of bis history in the Canongate. Now 
we pass the Moray House, the old mansion of the Earls 
of Moray, and the Canongate Tolbooth. We go into the 
grave-yard of the Canongate church, and stand by the 
graves of Dugald Stewart, Adam Smith, and the poet 
Ferguson, whose tombstone was erected by Burns. 

What stories the ancient houses on this street could 
tell us of love and murder, of plots and treason, of the 
wit and beauty of long ago ! But these eventful times 
have gone by, and we must confine ourselves to the pres- 
ent. On this same street stands the house of John Knox, 
the great Scotch reformer. It is situated in the Nether- 
bow, and is a good specimen of an old Scottish house. 
The rooms as now shown are three, a sitting-room, bed- 
room, and study. Here Knox lived from 1560 to 1572, 



280 A NEW PATH 

when he died in the sixty-seventh year of his age, a brave 
defender of a sturdy Christianity. He was buried in the 
churchyard of St. Giles, and over his grave the Regent 
Morton pronounced his eulogium in the well-known words, 
''Sere lies he who never feared the face of man^ 
Above the door of Knox's house is the inscription, " Love 
God above all, and your neighbor as yourself." 

On a high point of this street stands St. Giles Cathe- 
dral, dedicated to the saint of that name, and one of the 
most noted of the eclesiastical buildings in Edinburgh. It 
is interesting both from its antiquity and historic associa- 
tions. It dates from the ninth century. Here John 
Knox preached. Near the front entrance, you see in the 
pavement the Heart of Mid-Lothian, made famous in one 
of Sir Walter Scott's novels. The church was under- 
going repairs, and we saw but little of its interior. We 
walked into the churchyard of St. Giles to the spot 
marked with the letters "J. K.," on a small iron plate, 
designating the spot where John Knox is buried. We 
also went in to see the old Parliament House with its 
great hall, its carved oaken roof and its statutes and por- 
traits. In the library we looked upon the original manu- 
script of Sir Walter Scott' Waverley, well preserved 
under a glass case. In passing we noticed St. George's, 
the church where the celebrated Dr. Guthrie so eloquently 
preached the gospel, to the great profit and delight of the 
Scotch people. 

Now we have reached the castle. This is built on a 
rock rising three hundred feet out of the plain, and its 
position is both commanding and picturesque. It is asso- 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 281 

ciated with many stirring events in Scottish history. 
Within the walls of this castle are exhibited daily the 
ancient Regalia of Scotland ; also Queen Mary's room, in 
which James VL was born; Queen Margaret's chapel, 
one of the oldest chapels in Scotland, recently restored. 
It is exceedingly small. Here is also Mons Meg, a gi- 
gantic cannon used at the siege of Nordham castle in 
1847. No better specimens of soldiers are anywhere 
seen than here. They were untiring in their kindness to 
us. The University, Museum, National Picture Gallery, 
and other places of interest we visited, we must pass by 
unnoticed here. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

SOMETHING ABOUT EUROPEAN HOTELS — LANGUAGES — PATIENCE 
AND GOOD TEMPER — EATING — THE TABLE d'h6tE — SERVANTS 
AND WAITERS — FEES AND CHARITIES — IMPROVING OPPORTU- 
NITIES. 

THE average hotel charge's are cheaper, in most parts of 
Europe, than thej are in our own country. The sleep- 
ing apartments are generally excellent, with good beds 
and fairly good attendance even in second-class establish- 
ments. Persons who do not deviate much from the usual 
track of travel find the English language spoken at nearly 
all the hotels, and in many of the large stores. It is 
true, in many cases you see large cards in the show 
windows of stores, informing you, "English spoken 
here," but when you go inside you fail to find it. Some 
knowledge of French and German is very useful, and 
adds much to the enjoyment of travel. 

One of the chief ingredients necessary to a pleasant 
as well as profitable tour over the Continent of Europe, 
is a large amount of patience and good temper. We met 
and were in company with a feW' Americans who signally 
failed in this particular. They grumbled and growled 
and found fault with everything and everybody. They 
scolded the waiters and the cooks, and tried not to relish 
their meals. One of the amusing scenes frequently was 
to witness a war of vi/ords between guest and waiter in 
(382) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 283 

two different languages. From the general slashing round 
of dishes, and the frowns on the faces, it was very appar- 
ent that both parties were in bad humor ; and in the effort 
to explain matters and state the true ground for complaint, 
things were fearfully mixed. Persons indulging in such 
bad temper make themselves unhappy, disgust other peo- 
ple, and fail to enjoy the trip, as those of a more equable 
temperament always do. The tourist should always go 
with the determination to take things as' they come, and 
then • the probabilities are that he will have a profitable 
and good time. 

It is true there are many things to annoy you if you 
will allow them, but it is even so at home — yet when 
abroad, it is still more so. Just let us refer to the time 
and manner of eating regular meals. Breakfast means 
only bread and coffee at nine o'clock. There is no use 
to be in a hurry, for you will not get your breakfast 
earlier unless you make a special arrangement with posi- 
tive orders, the evening before, and then you will pay 
extra. The table d'hote (dinner) at the hotels is, to 
most Americans, an abomination. This meal is usually 
served at 6 p. m., an hour when the day's Avork is over, 
and the meal can be taken at leisure. It is the social 
meal of the day, and all the guests at the hotel are ex- 
pected to meet at the table. It requires never less 
than an hour, oftener two, and unless your company is 
entertaining, it is a long and dreary process. 

Perhaps you have been told that there will be ten or 
fifteen courses, and if uninitiated you have your mind 
made up that for once you will have your usual " square 



284 A NEW PATH 

meal " ; but when the waiter, with swallow-tail coat, with 
white necktie and shirt front of immaculate whiteness, 
brings you a small piece of bread and a dish of slightly 
colored water called soup, you proceed with quiet resig- 
nation with the belief that you will have the dinner pres- 
ently ; but your curiosity is only the more aroused when 
the plates are changed, and after a long dreary waiting 
you receive a very small bit of fish. Then the table is 
cleared again, and you are served with a bit of chicken ; 
like a true American, you have dispatched your bread 
long enough since, and you take chicken and " play it 
alone"; but you think it "passing strange" when you 
learn that this is the manner you are to be served these 
" ten or fifteen courses." So you continue for an hour 
or two in patient expectation of the meal that is always 
coming. There is a mouthful to eat and then a dreary 
silence, giving plenty of time to cultivate the grace of pa- 
tience. We yet have a distinct recollection of the fellow- 
coutryman who, when he had borne it patiently until the 
meal was half over, thundered out to the waiter: "Good 
gracious ! Life is too short to be wasted in this manner, 
sir; for heaven's sake bring me something to eat." 

If slow eating is conducive to health, and it certainly 
is, then nearly all Europeans ought to be very healthy. 
The manner of serving the dinner is said to be on gastro- 
nomic principles, the courses being so arranged as to be 
most conducive to digestion and to avoid astonishing the 
stomach by any violent changes in the food to be de- 
posited therein. 

It is really very difiicult to know exactly what you 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 285 

are eating. You must have confidence that you are 
going to enjoy your meal, or close your eyes and go it 
blind. If you should happen to call for ice-water at din- 
ner you will be gazed at in perfect astonishment, and if 
you get it at all, you must wait a long time for it. The 
European considers wine the only beverage proper to 
imbibe whilst eating. This is used as freely as we use 
coffee. It is served in large long-necked bottles, placed 
on the table generously at the disposal of the guests — 
and they generally do dispose of it. If your breakfast 
at nine and lunch at twelve were not the most satisfac- 
tory, you will almost invariably be favored with a splen- 
did repast at table cVhote^ the six o'clock meal. By 
takino; meals in the restaurants the cost of livino; is but 
little more than half the hotel charges, and generally the 
quality of the food is much better. 

Another thing that might be named as among the an- 
noying things is, the ordeal through which you must pass 
when about to leave your hotel. It is next to impossible 
to get your bill until the moment you want to start away. 
Then there is presented to you a huge sheet of paper 
containing a long array of items, among which there are 
sure to be a number of improper charges. If you have 
time to read it all over and call attention to these errors, 
they are stricken off Avith profuse apologies for ih.Q blun- 
ders of the stupid (?) clerk. The best way to do, if at 
all possible, is to settle all bills the evening previous to 
your departure the next morning. 

The next thing to do is to run the gauntlet of cham- 
bermaids, waiters, porters and " boots." To have a 
13* 



286 A NEW PATH 

string of these individuals bowing at you all the way 
from your room-door to the carriage-steps, and looking 
beggary without exactly soliciting alms, gives the traveler 
some idea of his importance, and he tries to persuade 
himself that "it is always pleasanter to give than to re- 
ceive." However, begging is the business of most of 
these for a livelihood, as they receive little or nothing 
for their services but -what is gathered from the guests. 

There was an amusing scene at one of our hotels one 
day. A party who traveled with the Cook tourist tickets, 
had printed instructions from Cook not to give even the 
smallest fee to any one unless as a charity, because their 
tickets embraced all manner of service at the hotels where 
they were stopping. As they were about leaving the hotel, 
the entire household was bobbing and smiling around 
them, but the tourists persisted in not understanding what 
it all meant, and quietly shook hands, bidding them 
all an affectionate adieu. They had no sooner left than 
the smiles changed to frowns, and all hands w^ere abusing 
Cook and his people. Fifty Americans passing through 
a hotel and leaving no money with the servants was not 
to be borne. This time, however, the thing had to be 
endured. As a rule the porters receive fees for their 
attention to guests. Generally the porter is a polite 
gentleman, and some of them are well educated, speaking 
various languages with fluency. Regarding these well 
known annoyances as among the things which necessarily 
belonged to the tour we were making, we did not look 
upon them as really annoying, and are sure we fared all 
the better. 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 287 

Although we discovered that Europe has much to learn 
from America, we also finally came to the conclusion that 
we have still much to learn from those old countries. It 
is undoubtedly true that the great majority of American 
tourists enjoy the sights and scenes and life in Europe, 
and come home wiser and better ; but it is equally true 
that many fail to make good use of their opportunities. 
We know one gentleman who may be safely classed 
among the latter. He traveled over a large portion of 
Europe, and on his return home gave all that he saw and 
felt worth mentioning, in a four-column newspaper article. 
Nearly everything over the sea disgusted him, and we 
should not wonder if, by this time, he had become dis- 
gusted with himself. One has well said : 

"Nature, through all her works, in great degree, 
Borrows a blessing from variety." 

Variety has been called the spice of life, that gives it 
all its flavor — hence some people use so much spice, that 
everything becomes artificial, and nature no longer bor- 
rows blessings from variety. Too much spice, especially 
when peppery, spoils the flavor of our pleasure and en- 
joyment. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

THINGS TIEWED IN THE CONTRAST — THE CONDITION OP THE 
WORKING CLASS IN EUROPE COMPARED WITH OUR OWN — THE 
WORKING WOMEN^ — THE OPPRESSED POOR AND LABORING CLASS 
— ROYALTY — THE INEQUALITIES OF LIFE — AGRARIANISM — 
SOLUTION OF THE LABOR TROUBLES. 

IN making a tour through foreign lands, it is natural for 
one to view things in the contrast. Whether it be the 
form of government, the condition of the people, or the 
state of morals, you judge these in comparison with the 
same at home. We are well aware that we have not yet 
attained the highest and purest form of government ; that 
society needs purifying, and our Christianity to become 
more practical ; but even in these vital matters we are 
certainly far in advance of possibly all the European 
countries. The crowned heads of Europe are watching 
with an Argus eye every advance we make in the science 
of good government. Every year our prosperous exist- 
ence endangers their power. The story of our liberty 
is reaching and enrapturing their subjects. The tenure 
by which they hold their crowns is becoming more frail 
as time rolls onward ; and, if we are true to ourselves, 
if virtue predominates, if the voice of wisdom is obeyed, 
if patriotism, discretion and honesty guide our rulers, our 
government will go on increasing in strength, beauty and 
grandeur. 

By our example we will conquer the world more ef- 
( ^88 ) 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 289 

fectually, and by far more gloriously, than Alexander 
did with the sword — by regenerating the minds of the 
people. But we must practice upon the principle that 
eternal vigilance is the price of liberty. We are more 
in danger from internal foes than from foreign enemies. 
If we would be truly great, we must be truly good. Vir- 
tue, wisdom, prudence, patriotism, and sterling integrity, 
must actuate, guide, and fully control our leaders, and the 
great mass of our increasing population. The towering 
waves of political intrigue and demagogue influence must 
be kept back, and the purity of motive and love of coun- 
try that impelled the sages and heroes of '76 to noble 
and God-like action, must pervade the hearts of our 
rulers and the people o^f our nation. Animated by such 
a spirit and governed by such principles, our country 
Avill always stand in happy contrast with all the mon- 
archies of Europe, and our people be happy and prosper- 
ous. 

The contrast between the common people or masses, 
and those of better worldly fortune, is infinitely greater in 
the old country than in our own. This difference is most 
marked among the female population. The women, in 
many parts of Germany and Switzerland, perform the 
hardest kind of labor-work. It is nothing unusual to see 
more women than men in the harvest-field, and the 
former generally do the hardest part of the work. 
Where the barrow and hoe are used, you usually see the 
woman pushing the former and the man carrying the hoe. 
If the two are seen sawing and splitting wood, the woman 
generally does the sawing and the man the splitting. In 



290 A NEW PATH 

the many such instances which came under our observa- 
tion, we always had the impulse to go and reverse 
matters. 

It is nothing uncommon to see women making and car- 
rying mortar in buckets on their heads up ladders to the 
workmen, and handling the brick. It is remarkable, too, 
to see how these poor working-women wheel wheel- 
barrows and handle the shovel and pick with all the 
muscular agility of men. Let us quote the language of 
another, so that in " the mouth of two or three witnesses 
every word may be established." 

" We found the same proportion of women at work on 
all the buildings, and there must be thousands of them 
to-day doing this species of laboring work in Vienna. 
They comprise young, middle-aged, and old, but seem to 
be strong and healthy. At dinner-time they swarm into 
the shops to purchase a piece of brown bread and fat 
bacon and a mug of beer, and eat their dinners sitting on 
the curbstones. Their wages are one florin, or forty- 
eight cents, per day ; and we were assured by a gentle- 
man resident in Vienna, that most of them sleep about 
the buildings on shavings, or in barns or sheds, having no 
homes. Amidst all the splendor and wealth of this great 
city, with its millions of inhabitants, there is perhaps 
more destitution, want and suffering, than in ail the cities 
of America. Still we frequently hear some of our coun- 
trymen praising and preferring the governments of 
Europe." Why do not such go and see ? " While view- 
ing this scene, the Emperor and Empress, with his staff 
and outriders, glittering in gold and precious stones, 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 291 

dashed along the Ringstrasse, on the way to the palace, 
whilst a short distance off stand the royal stables, an ex- 
tensive establishment covering at least four blocks of 
ground each, the meanest animal in which is better cared 
for than these women." 

How much better off and infinitely more happy the 
working-women in our country! In contrast with the 
same class in Europe, ours are truly queens, in the pos- 
session of their own homes and in the affections of their 
husbands and children. 

The poor, and people of humble origin in Europe, have 
no opportunities to lift themselves from poverty into afflu- 
ence, or reach the highest place among their fellows, like 
we have in this country. There "' blood will tell," no 
matter what its quality. Royalty bars the way to many 
who are worthy. 

Shakespeare has said : 

" 'Tis better to be lowly born 
And range witli humble livers in content, 
Than to De perk'cl up in a glistening grief, 
And wear a golden sorrow." 

But the sorrow among the masses, especially among the 
poor working class in Europe is not a "golden sorrow;" 
it is often the deep and keen sorrow of hunger, produced 
by faithful labor unrewarded. They work hard and re- 
ceive a mere pittance for their toil. The laborer there is 
more a slave than ever our colored " chattels " of the South 
were. Twelve hours is a day's work over there for the 
day laborer and the mechanic, whilst the banker and 
business clerk and all lighter labor are content with six 



292 A NEW PATH 

to eight hours. Many parts of Europe are delightful to 
the tourist, and inviting to foreigners, as places for per- 
manent residence, but only such as are independently 
rich could enjoy them. The man who must earn his 
livelihood by the sweat of his brow, cares not to make 
such a country his home. 

The condition of the laboring classes in Europe is the 
full explanation for the hundreds of thousands who an- 
nually throng our shores. While they love their Father- 
land, they love freedom more. They want to go to 
America. Whilst many come to us, yet it is only pov- 
erty that keeps many more from coming. The laboring 
class seem to regard Amerca as the haven of all their 
hopes ; and if there were three thousand miles of desert 
instead of water rolling between them, there would be a 
regular stampede for these shores. And we think it is 
safe to say that every industrious foreigner who comes to 
our country is an argument in favor of ours being the 
best country the sun ever shines on. 

We recognize the fact that differences in condition of 
life exist not only in Europe but also amongst ourselves ; 
but Ave have them in a much milder form — they are not 
so oppressive by any means. These differences, too, 
have always existed in the human race, and will exist 
until the perfect redemption comes. Some one has said, 
'' You may dig out the inequalities of life, but they will 
come again." These seem to rest on strength, talent, 
wealth, and rank. The first two produce inequalities 
among savages in the dense forest, in all the rudeness of 
nature ; the last two produce it in most refined society. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 293 

Absurd as it is, riches often give a man more consequence 
than talent, which, joined with virtue, is the only thing 
that should place one man above another of inferior 
capacity. 

These inequalities of life, however, are often made so 
oppressive by the abuse of wealth and rank that there is 
great ground for complaint; and there is complaint. It 
would seem when one sees the condition of the masses 
in parts of Europe — how miserably labor is rewarded, just 
enough wages given to prevent actual starvation, and the 
consequent wretchedness this produces — that the right to 
combine for the regulation of wages would be justified 
there. But certainly there is far less ground for such a 
course in our country. \ Yet, with all the improved con- 
dition of our laborers and mechanics in homes and wages 
received, how rife and dangerous the spirit of agrarian- 
ism is becoming amongst us ! History is repeating itself 
in the labor troubles of to-day. It is the same spirit 
that reigned at Rome two thousand years ago. At the 
present day, as in former times, we have many restless 
spirits among us, who set themselves up for reformers of 
society, proposing to change the whole order of things, 
and bring about an equality in the human family. We 
admit the need of reformation in many things and per- 
sons, and know of none who need to be reformed more 
than some of these modern pretenders. Many of them 
are destitute of moral principles, infidels in heart and 
practice, agrarians, levellers, too indolent to pursue a 
laudable calling, and too well known to impose upon the 
well-informed around them. With such, artificial wants 



294 A NEW PATH 

and false pride, indulgence in idleness and vice, a discon- 
tented disposition, and a longing after the flesh-pots, are 
the real sources of misery — not the deprivation of riches, 
rank, or talent. 

Yet at the same time candor and fidelity to the truth 
force us to say, that the fault of strife between capital 
and labor is not all on one side. It is a problem not 
easily solved; it claims the profound attention of both the 
church and state, the statesman and theologian. The 
only solution of the impending danger and threatening 
ruin, we think, is to be found in the spirit of a loving 
Christianity ; by adopting the doctrine of Christ, that 
men are brothers, and the faithful and conscientious 
practice of the Golden Rule. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

GLASGOW — MELKOSE ABBEY — LIVERPOOL— HOMEWARD BOUND — 
STORM AT SEA — SHIP ON FIRE — THE GREAT PERIL — DEATH 
AND BURIAL AT SEA — HOME AGAIN. 

EDINBURGH proved to be one of the most delightful 
cities it was our privilege to visit in the Old World ; 
it was therefore with much reluctance that we took our 
departure for Glasgow. The Scotchman takes special 
pains to show you the most interesting objects in his city, 
and that, too, without a fee. The gentleman jvho offered 
to point out to us the places of historic interest in Edin- 
burgh gave us to understand that he would accept of 
nothing in that way. It gave him pleasure, he said, to 
do a kind office for an American. A striking character- 
istic of the Scotch people is that they all know their own 
Idstory and historic characters. From the highest to the 
humblest in position, you cannot go amiss for correct in- 
formation on any subject pertaining to their city, or dis- 
tinguished men. Any one of them will discourse elo- 
quently, and Tfith becoming pride, about their literary 
men, statesmen, and warriors. This speaks well for their 
early training, no doubt in the family and school. 

But now we are en route by rail for Glasgow, a dis- 
tance of forty-five miles. The country between these 
two great cities is well cultivated, and interspersed with 
neat cottages, and there is evidence of industry and pros- 

(295) 



296 A NEW PATH 

peritj. Though being in the middle of September, it 
was harvest time, and from all appearances the crop was 
a heavy one. Grain is cut in this part of Scotland as 
late as October. In our approach to Glasgow we ob- 
served what is so common in the neighborhood of our 
own cities, large and beautiful country villas, surrounded 
with many proofs of refinement, wealth, and taste. 

Glasgow is the chief city of Scotland, and one of the 
greatest commercial centres in the world. It has a pop- 
ulation of six hundred thousand people. It is bustling 
with energy and activity. Parts of it are very beautiful. 
It is solidly built. The motto upon the city arms is: 
''Let Glasgow Flourish," and the people seem deter 
mined that it shall flourish. Among its many industries, 
the building of iron ocean and river steamers is one of 
the most important. It aifords many other extensive 
manufactures, as brewing, dyeing, and bleaching. The 
shipping interests of the city are immense. Glasgow was 
the cradle of steam navigation, and the first steamer in 
Europe was launched there in 1812, Henry Bell being 
the projector. James Watt, a native of Glasgow, first 
applied steam as a motive power. Beautiful monuments 
have been erected to both of these inventors. 

The cathedral and necropolis afforded us much inter- 
est ; the latter contsiining many chaste and magnificent 
monuments, chief among which is that of John Knox. In 
the same neighborhood stands the church of the late and 
distinguished minister. Dr. McLeod. It is not very 
large, and neither externally or internally especially at- 
tractive. It presents a dilapidated appearance. But it 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 29T 

was here where one of God's most distinguished sons 
preached with great power and rich fruits the gospel of 
peace. Near this church we noticed another church edi- 
fice with the following label, in large and attractive let- 
ters on its side wall : "yl church where people can. at- 
tend divine service in their every-day clothes.^'' Here 
certainly is the expressed desire upon the part of some- 
bodv to accommodate a class of people who can not 
afford to parade a " Sunday go-to-meeting" suit. Thou- 
sands of people, no doubt, are kept away from God's 
house because they can not profusely decorate their 
bodies so as to make a show. Then thousands more of 
our Christian people, by their extravagant dressing, keep 
many away from divine ^ervices. 

But we must hasten. In the evening of the same day 
we retraced our steps to Edinburgh, where we spent the 
night. The next morning found us on our way to Liver- 
pool, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles. On the 
way we stopped off to see Melrose Abbey, so famous in 
romance and poetry, and the noblest ecclesiastical ruin in 
Scotland. It is all in ruins, with the exception of the 
church ; yet its ornaments and edges are as sharp as when 
newly cut. No description, not even the famous one in 
the "Lay of the Last Minstrel," can give an adequate 
idea of its beauty. Within its walls are the graves of 
kings, nobles, and priests of the olden time — among 
them Alexander II. of Scotland, and a number of the re- 
nowned Earls of Douglas. Before the high altar the 
heart of Robert Bruce is said to have been deposited ; a 
small tablet marks the spot. 



298 A NEW PATH 

We continue our journey on the next train for Liver- 
pool, and we really begin to feel that we are going home. 
The country is beautifully picturesque along the Tweed, 
whose banks we skirt. The vale of this river is every- 
where beautiful. Villages and hamlets nestle in wooded 
slopes that rise from the verge of the winding river, and 
wide-spread pastoral hills and plains present a diversity 
of quiet beauty seldom surpassed. Later in the day we 
arrived at Carlisle, where we changed cars. After an- 
other long and tedious ride, we reached Liverpool at 5 
p. m., and soon found ourself in Clayton Square, at the 
Feathers' Hotel. It proved to be a good, soft place. 

We are here, a few days in advance of sailing, and the 
chief thing to do is to get ready to leave the " Old Field" 
for home. If we were even to attempt to tell you with 
what alacrity and delight one does such a thing as get- 
ting ready to sail for home, you might conclude we had 
been homQ- sick; bat we were not. Sight-seeing had 
now about come to an end ; and we had little time for 
looking about in Liverpool, the solid, sombre, and pon- 
derous appearing city. The last Lord's day we spent on 
British soil, we attended divine services at St. Andrew's 
church, where we heard an excellent sermon from Canon 
Le Froy (2 Cor. x. 5). So well were we pleased that 
we attended service at the same place in the evening, and 
heard the second part and conclusion of the sermon on 
the morning text. Canon Le Froy is evidently what we 
would call, in this country, a low Churchman. In his 
sermon, speaking of the Church, he said, "Not the 
Church of England, but all churches." " Christ," he 



ACEOSS AN OLD FIELD. 299 

said, " came to do two things ; one to die for our sins, 
the other to establish a church — not the Church of Eng- 
land, but a Churchy The congregations, morning and 
night, were very large. From the manner in which the 
preacher handled the common sins of the day, he cer- 
tainly showed himself a brave, earnest, and true herald 
of the cross. It was good to be there. The Lord was 
in that place. 

On Tuesday, the morning of the day we sailed, while • 
passing up one of the streets of the city, we noticed the 
British flag floating at half mast, and soon also our own 
flag. Upon inquiry, we learned that President Garfield 
had died. The expressions of sorrow were apparent 
among all classes of the English people. They spoke of 
Gen. Garfield as "the President." We saw men and 
women weeping as if one of their own household had died. 
The sympathy was deep, genuine, and universal. It so 
happened that President Garfield was shot on the day we 
sailed for Europe, and died on the day we took ship to return . 

On a bright September afternoon we took ship at 
Liverpool, in the vessel The City of Montreal, bound 
for New York, Captain Land commanding — the same 
brave Captain who subsequently w^as transferred to the 
ill-fated vessel. The City of Brussels. We had a pleas- 
ant company, among them a dozen clergymen of almost 
as many difierent schools. All were anxious to reach 
home, and especially to escape from the "life on the 
ocean wave," which is much more irksome on the return 
than on the outward voyage. Next to solitary confine- 
ment, there is nothing more wearisome than a homeward 



300 A NEW PATH 

trip across the Atlantic, and nothing more trying to 
patience, nerves and the stomach, when tossed in almost 
constant storm, as we were. The next afternoon found 
us in the harbor at Queenstown, and that evening we put 
out into the broad Atlantic, full of hope and with bright 
visions of home and loved ones. The sea, however, be- 
gins to rise, the waves roll high, the winds pipe through 
the rigging, the ship rolls and rocks, the elements riot in 
the fury of the tempest. There is a storm at sea. But 
there is a storm within as well. We think we are going 
to die, and after being afraid we would, we get into such 
distress that we are sorry we can't. We are tossed and 
pitched and rolled; now our vessel being on the side, 
then on the steerage, seeming to be after spearing whales. 
After receiving sundry bruises on our craniums, alter- 
nately against the door and wall of our contracted apart- 
ment, we sank down hopeless and prostrate, a few 
moments serving to obliterate all anticipations of escape 
from that most prostrating of all the trials and tribula- 
tions" of the stomach with which poor humanity can be 
beset. For eight days and nights the storm continued 
with almost unabated fury. At times its violence was 
much increased. Sleep was out of the question, for it 
required all our remaining strength to keep ourselves 
from pitching out of our little beds. At last, however, 
we got " our sea-legs on," and managed to encounter the 
storm somewhat. At meals the soup, the coffee, the 
plates, everything, came flying into our laps; and there 
^oes your next neighbor pitching over the table, and an- 
other under it, as if shot out of a catapult. 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 301 

Amid all our tribulations in our little rooms, we could 
not help being touched as well as amused by the sincere 
sympathy our kind steward expressed for us. and the 
earnest desire he had to afford us all possible relief. He 

would come to us frequently and say, '' Mr. , we must 

get you hup on deck to get some fresh hair ; for if you 
don't get hup on deck and get some fresh hair, you will 
'ave an liago7iizing time of it." 

But at midnight, in mid-ocean, when the storm is at its 
greatest fury, the most thrilling of all scenes yet is sud- 
denly upon us. We are startled with the cry of fire ! 
fi./e I And it was no false alarm. Awful to realize, we 
find oar ship is on fire ! Our hearts almost faint within 
us at the horror that stares yis in the face. Now go up 
the cries of the women and children, and pitiful are the 
beseechings for "help! help!" Others make prepara- 
tions to take to the life-boats. But what are these for 
safety, in such a storm and for such numbers ? There 
were seven hundred and ninety-five souls on board, and 
boats enough for possibly one -third of this number. 
Hither and thither rush the seamen (as if on wings), in 
flying obedience to the word of command by the anxious 
Captain. The smoke now rolls in dense volumes through 
the whole aft of the ship ; here and there the flames leap 
up and give a glare of vivid light. Oh, how long were 
those two hours on which our lives poised for a happy 
welcome home, or a watery grave in the deep, deep sea ! 
But hope is borne to our troubled hearts ; the good and 
brave Captain tells us the danger is past, and the fire 
under control. Our anxious ears catch the sound of the 



302 A NEW PATH 

life-giving throbs which the great engine sends through 
the entire vessel. We recover from the fears of our ap- 
prehended fate, and joyfully greet every assurance that 
contributes to our deliverance. We feel that we are 
safe, for the Captain assures us that the fire is entirely 
subdued, and our ship not seriously damaged. The Lord 
heard our prayers and delivered us out of our distress. 
" He maketh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof 
are still." " Then were we glad because we were quiet ; 
so He brought us into our desired haven." The origin 
of the fire we never could ascertain, but we suspect that 
carelessness was the prime cause.. 

On the morning of the same day we had a burial at 
sea. One of our female passengers died of delirium tre- 
mens. Her body was wrapped in a sheet, and securely 
tied with ropes to a heavy plank, at the foot end of which 
was suspended a heavy iron weight. The body was 
placed near the open port of the ship. The Captain 
then read the burial service, and as he pronounced the 
words, "earth to earth," the seamen shoved the remains 
off into their watery grave. 

Shortly after this sad ceremony, we were startled by 
the ravings of a drunken man who threatened with death 
one of our cabin passengers. Memorable, indeed, will 
ever be that Lord's day morning on the seal A fire, a 
burial, and an attempt at murder — truly, it was time, 
we thought, for us to be getting home. 

The last three days and nights were the most charming, 
as well as beautiful, of all our trip abroad. As if wishing 
to compensate for eight days and nights of almost constant 



ACROSS AN OLD FIELD. 303 

storm, the sea put on its greatest calm and beauty, and 
we were reminded of the sea of glass which St. John be- 
held in his apocalyptic vision from the island of Patmos. 
The joy of getting home to our own native shore and 
family was sincerely great, and can only be appreciated 
by those who have realized a similar experience. How 
solid and beautiful seemed the hills on which we looked 
from the deck of our vessel that Lord's day morning, as 
we lay in the bay off New York ! How supremely 
thankful to our divine Lord for bringing us safely " home 
again from a foreign shore," and into our "desired ha- 
ven," and into the midst of our loved ones ! Then were 
we glad and thanked the Lord that there " was no more 



